Gunstock
- Thread starter Brutus
- Start date
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I strongly suspect there's a comedian in this audience......lol.
I'm assuming that you applied your Danish Oil finish straight from the container????
This isn't always a good practice, especially with old, stable wood.
I like to mix the product with acetone.
Equal part acetone to an equal part of Danish Oil.
This does thin out the oil but it also allows it to penetrate better and dry faster.
I would do at least three coats with this method and wipe down the finish with 000000 steel wool to get rid of any feathering if there is any.
I usually leave the finish for at least 24 hours before applying another coat.
Wipe down the last coat with a piece of absorbant and very slightly abrasive paper towel. That harsh brown stuff works well, or something similar.
This leaves a baby's bottom smooth finish.
This isn't always a good practice, especially with old, stable wood.
I like to mix the product with acetone.
Equal part acetone to an equal part of Danish Oil.
This does thin out the oil but it also allows it to penetrate better and dry faster.
I would do at least three coats with this method and wipe down the finish with 000000 steel wool to get rid of any feathering if there is any.
I usually leave the finish for at least 24 hours before applying another coat.
Wipe down the last coat with a piece of absorbant and very slightly abrasive paper towel. That harsh brown stuff works well, or something similar.
This leaves a baby's bottom smooth finish.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Thanks guys. I did have three in mind, because one rarely gets full coverage on the very first try.
It will be four days between coats with the finest steel wool I can find hereabouts.
It's a little different than the minwax tung oil i am used too.
But I really appreciate the oil finish often found on European hunting rifles. Hence this nice experiment.
Cheers.....
It will be four days between coats with the finest steel wool I can find hereabouts.
It's a little different than the minwax tung oil i am used too.
But I really appreciate the oil finish often found on European hunting rifles. Hence this nice experiment.
Cheers.....
Jonnyofalltrades
Regular
- Location
- North-central Saskatchewan
Back when I used Danish Oil for a stock finish I would usually end up putting on about 10 or so.
- Location
- Rockland, ON
I don't have a lot of experience using the Danish oil, tried on two Milsurps. I used Circa 1850 Antique Danish. In both cases I cleaned the dirt and top surface oils with a cotton rag soaked in the spray bottle version of Murphy's Oil soap. I let them dry well for a couple of days before I applied 4 coats of the Danish. I did full coverage and let it soak in for an hour or so then wipe excess off and let it dry for a day. Repeat until the four coats were finished. No sanding or steel wool rubbing in between. Basically, I'm protecting not restoring, I want all the original bumps and bruises left, they tell a story. I am pleased with the outcomes.
First is a 106 year old P14 that has travelled the world. It went from the US to the UK, then in KNIL hands likely to the Netherlands, Australia, Indonesia and then finally Canada.
The second is an 80 year old C/l\ and MP marked LB No4 Mk1*.
First is a 106 year old P14 that has travelled the world. It went from the US to the UK, then in KNIL hands likely to the Netherlands, Australia, Indonesia and then finally Canada.
The second is an 80 year old C/l\ and MP marked LB No4 Mk1*.
Attachments
This was the first and only time Iv used Danish oil. I put 6 coats on this stock. I had some Alkanet root soaked Danish oil I used for a first good coat, I let it soak for 5-10 minutes then wiped clean and let dry a week. Definitely darkened up the lines compared to the straight Danish. Then I wet sanded 3 times with straight Danish in 400, 600 then 1000 grit, letting dry between coats and standings. Then 2 more light coats of straight Danish and lots of rubbing.
I found the Danish harder to work in than the Tung that Iv used in the past, I found it took a lot of rubbing with a clean rag to get it “buffed”. With Tung, I always use my hands. The Danish did make a super nice finish though.
I found the Danish harder to work in than the Tung that Iv used in the past, I found it took a lot of rubbing with a clean rag to get it “buffed”. With Tung, I always use my hands. The Danish did make a super nice finish though.
Where are you sourcing 000000 steel wool these days? I haven't seen any around for a long time.
Princess Auto, Lee Valley and Peavey Mart have it in stock.
Sometimes you have to buy it in small bags, which can be handy as it's usually in little balls that are just the right size for such jobs.
The last purchace I made of 000000 wool was at an auction. It came in a bulk box with 50 large boxes of 10 large balls per box.
I have about ten boxes left, which just may last the lifespan I have left.
- Location
- SE corner Sk
Right now I have put 3 coats of schaftol on a husky stock. Probably a bit different from Danish oil?
Think it might be possible to put 8 coats, just have to put them on thinned and wait for the finish to properly cure.
Think it might be possible to put 8 coats, just have to put them on thinned and wait for the finish to properly cure.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I can't wait any longer, it's been 24 hours from first coat.
I lightly sanded with 600 grit, then wiped it clean with a shop towel & then applied my second coat.
BTW, it's 1850 Antique Danish Oil, natural color.
Myself I have never seen the Watco brand up here northern Alberta.
Now there's also 1850 Antique Danish Oil, walnut?
So, does that mean it's for real walnut?
Or, is it a finish that mimicks walnut?
Inquiring minds wanna know....
I lightly sanded with 600 grit, then wiped it clean with a shop towel & then applied my second coat.
BTW, it's 1850 Antique Danish Oil, natural color.
Myself I have never seen the Watco brand up here northern Alberta.
Now there's also 1850 Antique Danish Oil, walnut?
So, does that mean it's for real walnut?
Or, is it a finish that mimicks walnut?
Inquiring minds wanna know....
Schaftol has Ballistol in it.
The 1850 is what I used, Iv used their Tung oil quite a bit also. From what I understand the walnut blend will give a tone of walnut colour. A bit harder to do on a stock you’re re finishing, but Iv always ran a handful of test pieces with different blends / mix’s to see what suits the wood best. If re finishing a stock, it could mess a guy up if it turns a tone that you don’t like and wanted sanded back out.
Be sure to give a show once it’s finished!!
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Maybe I am looking in the wrong place?
But everything I see online for 5-0 or 6-0 very fine steel wool, is discontinued or unavailable to us little people.
Body shops will not sell me this product.
Waiting to hear back from the Huterites.
Edit: I found a source of up to 3000 grit sandpaper.
All is good !!!
But everything I see online for 5-0 or 6-0 very fine steel wool, is discontinued or unavailable to us little people.
Body shops will not sell me this product.
Waiting to hear back from the Huterites.
Edit: I found a source of up to 3000 grit sandpaper.
All is good !!!
Last edited:
It is very hard to determine what exactly is "Danish" "Tung" or even "Linseed" as each manufacturer seems to think it is okay to reinvent the wheel.
It seems that over the years they took it upon themselves to add more and more poly type hardeners, I assume to satisfy the impatient.
Danish oil, I believe, started as a blend of Tung oil mixed with a hint of poly. The last stuff I bought was Linseed based and hardened faster than Truoil, ironically also not a true oil.
The problem I found is that the product protects the wood outer finish but offers little protection to the internal wood. A stock can dry out from the inside out due to a lack of penetration.
I like to match the product I use with the pure original version, cut to penetrate. If the product I want to finish with is Tung oil based I start with pure Tung oil cut to penetrate. I apply this, sometimes for weeks. I am especially careful to let it soak into all areas even if that area is to be covered by a recoil pad etc. After I am satisfied I use the already suggested procedures above.
YRMV but I have found the end result has much more depth and is much more durable
[/url][/IMG]
[/url][/IMG]
It seems that over the years they took it upon themselves to add more and more poly type hardeners, I assume to satisfy the impatient.
Danish oil, I believe, started as a blend of Tung oil mixed with a hint of poly. The last stuff I bought was Linseed based and hardened faster than Truoil, ironically also not a true oil.
The problem I found is that the product protects the wood outer finish but offers little protection to the internal wood. A stock can dry out from the inside out due to a lack of penetration.
I like to match the product I use with the pure original version, cut to penetrate. If the product I want to finish with is Tung oil based I start with pure Tung oil cut to penetrate. I apply this, sometimes for weeks. I am especially careful to let it soak into all areas even if that area is to be covered by a recoil pad etc. After I am satisfied I use the already suggested procedures above.
YRMV but I have found the end result has much more depth and is much more durable
No listings at all for 000000 at any of those sites. Even the industrial/machine suppliers around here don't have a listing for that grade - 0000 is the finest.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Ditto. Finico brand name 5-00000 steel wool is now discontinued. None of the local body shops are willing to sell me some. Even at plus cost pricing. Hencei located 3000 grit sandpaper.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
It is very hard to determine what exactly is "Danish" "Tung" or even "Linseed" as each manufacturer seems to think it is okay to reinvent the wheel.
It seems that over the years they took it upon themselves to add more and more poly type hardeners, I assume to satisfy the impatient.
Danish oil, I believe, started as a blend of Tung oil mixed with a hint of poly. The last stuff I bought was Linseed based and hardened faster than Truoil, ironically also not a true oil.
The problem I found is that the product protects the wood outer finish but offers little protection to the internal wood. A stock can dry out from the inside out due to a lack of penetration.
I like to match the product I use with the pure original version, cut to penetrate. If the product I want to finish with is Tung oil based I start with pure Tung oil cut to penetrate. I apply this, sometimes for weeks. I am especially careful to let it soak into all areas even if that area is to be covered by a recoil pad etc. After I am satisfied I use the already suggested procedures above.
YRMV but I have found the end result has much more depth and is much more durable
[/url][/IMG]
[/url][/IMG]
And you sir are quite correct. The 1850 Danish Oil is purchased is nothing like the Danish oil is was given thirty years ago in Saskatchewan.
My expectations have to change somewhat.
Too much poly hiding in there.
