Handy Gadget

mooncoon

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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Location
Vancouver Island
I have had problems ramming a ball down occasionally, because of dry patches or double patching etc. After having to use a metal rod to seat a ball a couple of weeks ago, I came up with an idea to temporarily increase the weight of the ramrod. Basically started with a piece of 1/2" brass about 4" long and turned it to about .470 so that it would slide down my 50 cal barrel without sticking, and turned the last 1/2 " down further to about .430 so that the patch could not wrap around the tip and jam it. Other end I drill about 1/2" deep and 3/8" diameter hold to fit over the end of my ramrod tip and drilled and tapped further to take an 8/32 screw. Purpose of the hole was to prevent the heavy end from wobbling and potentially breaking the screw.
I tried it out yesterday when fouling was building up a bit and it seems to work quite well. It only weighs a little over 2 oz but I can definitely feel the extra weight and it gives the ball an extra shove that make the difference between a difficult to seat ball and being able to seat the ball without too much difficulty. The brass section screws on easily and comes off easily and fits in my possibles bag out of the way when not in use. Others on here might want to try carrying a similar weighted tip for when they have a tight ball that doesn't want to seat

cheers mooncoon

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Since I switched to precut water lubed patches, the sticking problem seems to have disappeared.

I use a musket cap box and circular cleaning patches laid out in the tin in a circular path for easy picking up.

I fill the tin with the patches and then fill the tin with water.

The day I go to the range or Trail Walk I squeeze out the water with my thumbs, the wet patches clean the bore on loading.

As there is little time between loading and shooting, it works fine.
 
Since I switched to precut water lubed patches, the sticking problem seems to have disappeared.

I use a musket cap box and circular cleaning patches laid out in the tin in a circular path for easy picking up.

I fill the tin with the patches and then fill the tin with water.

The day I go to the range or Trail Walk I squeeze out the water with my thumbs, the wet patches clean the bore on loading.

As there is little time between loading and shooting, it works fine.


In my case I use home made moose milk as a lube. 20% water soluable cutting oil (I think it is a vegetable oil) 3 or 4 oz of isoproplyl alcohol in 1 quart of mix (to stop mold forming in bottle) and a bit of sunlight soap and the rest is water. I have started using precut patches because they don't dry out as much during a trail walk. When I cut my patches from a roll of fabric, the roll would dry out a bit more each time I took it out of the tin. I am beginning to think I might have a bit of frosting in the bore and that it is holding the fouling a bit. However when I look down the barrel with a camera wand, it seems smooth and it feels smooth when I clean it. Original guns with frosted bores, I can feel the drag on the brush and the patch

cheers mooncoon
 
I used the Ballistol and water moose milk solution and got powder build up which made loading difficult after a number of shots..

The switch to just water wet patches got rid of the problem.
 
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