Hanging with the cool kids - the cheap edition.

Sooooo...

I finally got the pistol working, for the most part anyway.

The good news is that all the Sig parts drop right in. The bad news is that doesn't insure it's going to work properly.

I stripped the most of the frame, the only parts I didn't remove where the hammer block pins and springs, the sear spring pin and the mag release.

I replaced both the hammer, sear and the trigger bar spring with the Sig parts. The gun didn't like this set-up at all. DA worked fine but was crunchy and gritty, and the trigger would not reset in SA. FML. I have to be honest, at that point I contemplated bashing the 20lb dumbbell onto the gun repeatedly and then punching myself in the face until I was certain that I would never again buy a Nornico.

I took a 24 hour breathing period and then played with the various combinations of the parts that I had. I dropped in the Sig hammer and the Norc sear. It became quite clear during this experiment what was causing the hammer to follow; the sear hook was rounded enough that the hammer was slipping off quite easily. That marriage was so bad that the hammer would not even lock back when I racked the slide or thumbed it.

Then I tried the Norc hammer and the Sig sear. Everything worked properly, for the most part. I'm getting intermittent failure of the trigger to reset in DA only. So, snap cap in, dry firing the gun in DA, I am getting the odd intermittent failure to reset. Everything else works great. I re-installed the Norc trigger bar spring and this issue improved. After a few dozen DA pulls I get maybe one failure to reset, so I'm wondering if this is just a sear break in issue, of if I'll continue to have the problem. I wish I could find a new Norc sear. If anyone has one kicking around please PM me.

Pics of the small parts. I have to say that I'm more impressed with these parts than I am with most Norc 1911's parts I've seen.


Trigger bar springs. Norc on the bottom, Sig on the top.

Sears. Sig on the left. Norc on the right.


Hammer: Norc on the left. Sig on the right.


Norc guts. Hammer, sear spring, pin, sear, ejector, hammer pin, sear pin, safety lever.

Guts assembled.

Decocker, spring and bushing.

Trigger and trigger bar.

Slide lock lever and trigger pin.

Locking block and slide catch spring.


Take down lever.

Old style main spring and assembly. I didn't take it apart to put the wolf in because it looked like a nightmare to get back together. It's probably best I didn't attempt it as I still have the 20lb dumbbell close by in the event of any more frustration.

 
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Clobbersauras said:
Then I tried the Norc hammer and the Sig sear. Everything worked properly, for the most part. I'm getting intermittent failure of the trigger to reset in DA only. So, snap cap in, dry firing the gun in DA, I am getting the odd intermittent failure to reset. Everything else works great. I re-installed the Norc trigger bar spring and this issue improved.
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Is this with the grips on or off? I know its a strange question, but IIRC the interior grip profile may inhibit the spring action. Does the trigger re-set if you pull it fully forward? If so, my guess is some interference with the trigger bar spring. Maybe a burr or some fouling in the trigger bar channel too??
 
raks said:
Is this with the grips on or off? I know its a strange question, but IIRC the interior grip profile may inhibit the spring action. Does the trigger re-set if you pull it fully forward? If so, my guess is some interference with the trigger bar spring. Maybe a burr or some fouling in the trigger bar channel too??
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Does it with both the grips on or off. At the range, I didn't have the re-set issue but I did have a bunch of very light hammer strikes, which resulted in the gun failing to fire. I will have to tear it down again to see if perhaps the mainspring assembly is not engaging the hammer properly or something. It's been a very frustrating experience.
 
Put it in a time out with the Nork NP29.....then stop buying Norks!
You have a lot more patience then I do....I'll give you that lol
 
misanthropist said:
This is exactly why I tell people to buy used Sigs for 6-700.

By the time you #### around with the nork and buy mags and holsters and a few crates of ammo and so on, the price difference is minimal and the difference in quality is pronounced.
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^^This.

The only good things about the NP22 and the NP29 is that I now have a much better understanding of how these guns work.

I don't think I've ever fully detail stripped my Glock, but then, I've never needed to.

There will be an older model P226 in my near future. The SRT kit is already on order.
 
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Detail stripping a GLOCK is dead simple with total 36 parts incl mag. Changing the three springs for light trigger requires essentially detail strip that is easier than building lego.
Clobbersauras said:
^^This.

The only good things about the NP22 and the NP29 is that I now have a much better understanding of how these guns work.

I don't think I've ever fully detail stripped my Glock, but then, I've never needed to.

There will be an older model P226 in my near future. The SRT kit is already on order.
Click to expand...
 
misanthropist said:
2000 rounds without maintenance has become a sort of benchmark for pistol testing. It was popularized by Todd Green at Pistol-Training.com.

It represents moderately good value in assessing a pistol....But in practise it's pretty effective at telling you which guns are going to run well, because anybody who can work shoelaces isn't doing it in a complete vacuum; if you're doing a 2000 round test, chances are you're also assessing other aspects of the pistol as you go.
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It's also a fact that many low grade pistols never go through more than 1000 rounds...often less than that. I bought an NP-34 because I wanted a cheap 9mm to do a bit of shooting with. I wouldn't buy a Norc if I was planning using it for serious practice. For that I'd go with a new Sig...warranty and all.
 
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