Hawken set trigger not setting off caps

[fingers284]

very simple to test a stronger main spring without buying one with this lock. I wouldn't use a wood v-block in the inside v of the spring...I would just shim between the top end of the spring and the nipple barrel boss of the side plate. very simple to do and try varying thicknesses of shim pieces without shortening the springs useful length with the v-block.

As you have already found out, when you do increase main spring tension, the #### gets harder to set and also on a simple sear-sear notch set-up as this is, the trigger pull will increase significantly in conjuction with how much you add to the spring tension. if your gun has a decent manageable trigger pull without using the set trigger and fires consistently, personally I might forget the set trigger all together.
On these rudimentary , entry level set trigger affairs there is an argument to just using the non-set trigger and forgetting about the set. With the non set condition , the actual lock time is cut in half and less parts movement than there is with a set trigger. the set trigger give a very satisfying sence of of refinement but it actually doubles the lock time and the "slap of the set trigger bar to the sear prong can actually create the same or more sight movement that your finger squeezing the non-set.

 

[Power Pill]

very simple to test a stronger main spring without buying one with this lock. I wouldn't use a wood v-block in the inside v of the spring...I would just shim between the top end of the spring and the nipple barrel boss of the side plate. very simple to do and try varying thicknesses of shim pieces without shortening the springs useful length with the v-block.

As you have already found out, when you do increase main spring tension, the #### gets harder to set and also on a simple sear-sear notch set-up as this is, the trigger pull will increase significantly in conjuction with how much you add to the spring tension. if your gun has a decent manageable trigger pull without using the set trigger and fires consistently, personally I might forget the set trigger all together.
On these rudimentary , entry level set trigger affairs there is an argument to just using the non-set trigger and forgetting about the set. With the non set condition , the actual lock time is cut in half and less parts movement than there is with a set trigger. the set trigger give a very satisfying sence of of refinement but it actually doubles the lock time and the "slap of the set trigger bar to the sear prong can actually create the same or more sight movement that your finger squeezing the non-set.

I tried shimming the main spring with about 30 thou of metal shims, but it didnt fix the issue.
At this point i might just ignore the set trigger like you say and concentrate on making the main trigger as smooth as possible

 

[fingers284]

I tried shimming the main spring with about 30 thou of metal shims, but it didnt fix the issue.
At this point i might just ignore the set trigger like you say and concentrate on making the main trigger as smooth as possible

Well, that pretty much re-affirms my first notion that a week main isnt the problem but after a week of this I would make one last attempt to fix the set problem. remove the trigger group from the gun, there should be a flat spring under & behind the set trigger bar, loosen that soring off & put a shim under it between the trigger end and the screw ( as close to the screw as you can get it. It wont take much of a shim to bring the spring tension up, I would use a small square of calendar backing or even milk carton thickness to try. that may be enough to "slap" the sear prong repicating your finger strength using the non set.

Either way....good luck with your shooting.

 

[wr.sainsbury]

I'm sorry but I don't see a fly unless it is under the tumbler against the lock plate. A bridle-less lock just cannot have a fly in the usual position. In my opinion
the problem is not the lock but more likely the spring tension in the set triggers.

 

[B_noser]

Suggest you take the time to read through the posts and look at all pics. This is not a bridleless lock and the fly is between the tumbler and lock plate - and clearly visible. In addition, it is a very large fly.

 

[tbrwlf]

To get CVA parts contact pecatonica river long guns.

I have bought from them before and they are good to deal with.

They bought all the CVA parts when CVA stopped producing guns.

Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply (longrifles-pr.com)

 

[Alias]

First thing I'd do is look at which brand of caps you are using, if they are CCI try Remington, have several tired guns where CCI's won't fire every time but Remington's do.