Help Me Make A Backpacking Rifle

rifle308

New member
Rating - 100%
17   0   0
Location
Far South, AB
Looking for all experts and those that think they are too help me put together a mountain rifle. I have a stock Remington 700 CDL SF in 35 Whelen. It will be wearing a Leupold Vx3 2.5 -8 x32. I want to know what you guys would do to improve this rifle into a more durable working hunting rifle, losing some weight would be a bonus but I know it will never be under 6lbs. What stock would you recommend, is a different trigger in order, ect. My budget is $500. All ideas are appreciated. Thanks
 
Last edited:
I’m also a fan of the wildcat stock for weight savings. But a backpacking rifle to me, has more to do with being compact and manoverable, with weight coming in second. I don’t think I’d own another backpacking rifle with longer then a 20” tube. A guy can get into a wildcat in that $500 range. One thing I found with the wildcat on my T3 Swede, it made it unblallenced. Shortening and fluting the barrel helped even it back out.
 
Looking for all experts and those that think they are too help me put together a backpacking rifle. I have a stock Remington 700 CDL SF in 35 Whelen. It will be wearing a Leupold Vx3 2.5 -8 x32. I want to know what you guys would do to turn this rifle into a lighter and more durable working hunting rifle. My budget is $500. All ideas are appreciated. Thanks

I wouldn't chop up that 35Whelen. You'd have to restock it, have the bbl cut back to 20" and use lighter scope in order to get to where you want to be and that would cost a lot more than $500 and would only end up with a bubba gun in the end.

The way I see it is that if you gonna spend that much or more, I'd be looking for a Savage Lightweight M11 in 308. Only weighs 5.5lbs. Top that with a Leupold 2-7 and you're now set with 2 nice rifles not one.
 
Considering the hourly cost of shop time, I don't think you'll be able to trim 4 pounds from your 8.5 pound rifle for $500, but let look at what might be done. The first element I'd address is the weight of the stock. If you can get by with a shorter LOP, you should shorten it, then regrind the recoil pad to match the smaller butt profile. The next step is to remove wood from the butt area of the stock, which could be accomplished with a simple brace and bit, taking care not to unduly weaken the stock. You might have now shaved as much as a pound from your rifle, without any cost whatsoever if you do the work yourself.

Reassembled, you will probably notice that the piece is now muzzle heavy, so the next step is to have the barrel shortened and crowned. Now you could shorten the rifle incrementally to see where the best balance for you lies, but this would be a slow and expensive proposition, which will probably result in a barrel about 20" long, so just get it cut and crowned at 20".

Consider light weight scope mounts. Traditional Weaver rings are light and inexpensive, but can be a little annoying when attempting to orient the vertical cross hair, however, once the scope is centered and the ring screws tightened to 15-20 inch-pounds, it will never move. The lightest scopes suitable for big game rifles are aluminum tube fixed power models, since they lack the longer ocular tube and a power ring of the variable. The old time advice of choosing a 4X for woods hunting, or a 6X for open country won't leave you wanting in many circumstances. Lighter still, would be to forgo the scope all together and install a ghost ring rear and rectangular post front sight, but today, few are willing to abandon the advantages of modern optics, for 19th Century sighting equipment.

While I prefer slings that provide dual service as shooting sling and carrying straps, I would forgo this when attempting to reduce weight, and choose a simple single strap nylon sling, although I'd probably hold out for an inch and a quarter rather than than a 1" sling. Uncle Mike's style swivels and studs are ubiquitous, and I doubt I wast time looking for a lighter (more expensive) alternative.

Any money you have left in your budget could go towards lightening the bolt. The combination of a skeletonized bolt handle, an aluminum striker shroud, and a titanium firing pin might reduce another ounce or two, but all of these alterations are small steps towards getting a lighter rifle rather than a heavier one. As I said at the outset, I doubt you'll be down to 5.5 pounds, but your rifle will be lighter than when you began.

There is one other option; that would be to sell you current rifle, or trade it in towards a light weight carbine, with those proceeds and the $500 you might get closer to your ideal back packing rifle, than you could by attempting to customize your 700 with a small budget.
 
A Wildcat with a Flip-flop butt pad will finish (with bedding and paint) at ~20 oz (mine is 19.8oz).
Depending on how much you can do yourself a Wildcat is $350-$800.

Cutting and crowning the barrel would be next, then an aluminum shroud, then bolt skeletonizing, the slabbing the action. The final things on this list are big $$$$ for an ounce or two. I would just do the stock and cut and crown.

My Rem 700 has a Wildcat and a 22" mountain profile barrel and is 5 lbs 7 oz.
 
I think there is lots of good advice in this thread already, but as others have said, I would knock the barrel from 24" down to 20", and get a wildcat stock. Get some JB weld or acra glass and bed it yourself. Painting doesn't have to be over the top. You can sand it and paint it with Krylon, or send it somewhere and have it hydro-dipped (camo-dipped).

That will be most of your budget if not all of it and a bit more, but will yield the best results ounces/$. I think the 35 whelen in a light(ish) weight package will make a great mountain gun. Maybe just a little better suited to big game than long shots at sheep or goat with say a 260 or 7mmRM with bigger glass, but a better all rounder.

If you want it a bit lighter still with a shortened barrel and stock done, you can get different rings or scope later, or skeletonize, but I would do the barrel and stock first and see how it handles.
 
It would be "amazing" to arrive at a backpacking/mountain rifle for $500, starting with an M700 .35 Whelen.

OP, I agree with SuperCub, leave that Whelen as is and find a true backpacking rifle in a lighter, flat shooting cartridge... just not the Savage ( ;))...
 
It would be "amazing" to arrive at a backpacking/mountain rifle for $500, starting with an M700 .35 Whelen.

OP, I agree with SuperCub, leave that Whelen as is and find a true backpacking rifle in a lighter, flat shooting cartridge... just not the Savage ( ;))...

Cannot stand down to "tolerate" bashing my beloved savage.
My savage 6.5x284 can shoot 3 bullets touching each other at 300 yards. That is a $700 rifle and I'm a below soso shooter. Also, based on the discussions at 24 hours campfire, savage is a great Sealer in the event of catastrophic ammunition failure.
 
OP, I agree with SuperCub, leave that Whelen as is and find a true backpacking rifle in a lighter, flat shooting cartridge... just not the Savage ( ;))...
I could hold my nose and own one of those Savage Lightweights.

At 5.5lbs, you'd be pretty hard pressed to find a lighter rifle for less, esp with a good reputation for accuracy.
 
I could hold my nose and own one of those Savage Lightweights.

At 5.5lbs, you'd be pretty hard pressed to find a lighter rifle for less, esp with a good reputation for accuracy.

I agree with all of that... it is the lack of soul that gets me...
 
I'm being serious when I say that I wanted a lightweight bear gun so lost 50 lbs and all of a sudden my 9 lb rifle carried just fine. I am NOT looking to be rude or start a fight when I say that the best 'mountain rifle' can be built cheapest by getting fit. I doubt I'm the only one with a taste for beer, nachos, whiskey, and cigarettes. Nor would cutting them from life be high on most people agenda. But it is so much easier not hauling a walrus on my stomach. Making assumptions of course but my Alberta winter hobby was brewing and charcuterie.

That said, cut the barrel back, switch to single shot (no mag no bottom metal), smaller low power scope, in my opinion.
 
Back
Top Bottom