I don't have pictures of my bedding job, but it looks basically the same as every other epoxy bedding job. Google for pictures of epoxy bedding, they all look the same.
The way I did it was...
1. Take action out of stock
2. Identify areas where the action touches the stock.
3. Use tiny chisels, or a light dremel tool, and remove stock material where the action makes contact. Try not to remove much along the top edge of the stock, as you want to maintain a tight stock/metal finish, if only for looks.
4. You don't need to take lots of wood away, anything more than 1/16" of an inch is probably enough.
5. Remember your barrel channel should be entirely free floating as well.
6. Put action back in stock, look for contact.
7. Go back to step one, and repeat, over and over and over, until the only place the stock is touching the action is the bedding pillars (if you have those). Remember to give the recoil lug lots of clearance as well.
8. Once the metal and the stock only touch at the bedding pillars, you are ready to bed the stock.
9. Go get Devcon Steel Putty. Aluminum Putty also works fine. Not the liquid stuff, the putty. It dries rock hard, and is tough as nails. It doesn't shrink, and is immune to pretty much everything. Once mixed, it will have the consistancy of creamy peanut butter, so it won't leak out everywhere. Don't use 5-minute epoxy or 2-hour epoxy or any of that syringe based stuff. It will sort of work, but not well, and is usually too liquidy to work with. Brownells Steel Bed works well as well.
10. Clean all your metal parts with brake cleaner or degreaser.
11. I would remove your trigger group if you can.
12. Put masking tape everywhere on the exterior of the stock and action. Don't be shy, as you don't want even a drop of that expoxy getting somewhere it shouldn't be.
13. Get plastercine/modelling clay and fill in everywhere you don't want the epoxy to flow. Large areas like the mag well or bolt area can be filled with newpaper or styrofoam, and then capped with modelling clay. Small dents like gas ports, screw holes, those notches in the barrel nut, can be filled with clay as well.
14. Anything that can act as a mechanical lock (once the epoxy dries, if it forms a "hook", clawing into a hole or corner of metal, it won't let your action come out of the stock) should be filled with modelling clay as well.
15. I take electrical tape, and make a sharp edged donut around the barrel, about 2" from the action or so, so when the epoxy dries, it has a nice clean edge to it. Wrap the tape so it almost is as wide as the barrel channel. Fill the rest of that gap with a little clay on the stock itself.
15. Use tape, cutting semi-circular notches as need be, and apply take to the barrel side of the recoil lug, sides and bottom. Only the back side (action side) of the lug should be bare. Build up enough tape so there will be a small air gap once the epoxy is set and the tape removed. This gives you some relief so you can get the action in and out of the stock easily.
16. Also use a thin layer of tape over the rear tang. On the savage, only bed as far back as the read action screw. THis will be a difficult area as it is also hollowed out for the tigger group. Build up modelling clay dams in there to keep the epoxy out of the tigger group area.
17. Test fit your action in your stock one last time. there should be no rocking, up and down, or high points, just contact at the two bedding pillars. Everything else should be free and clear from contact. The barrel should be level, and inline with the barrel channel. The action ejection port should be more-or-less true with he ejection port cut in the stock. The rear tang should be free from contact.
18. I use 1/4"-28 bolts from home depot as stand-ins for my action screws. Grind off the bolt heads, and slot them with a hacksaw/dremel. Also, to center the action bolts in the bedding pillars, give them wraps of masking tape so they are snug (not tight). This way once they are in, they will be centered and not pressing against the pillar sides.
19. Once you are confident that no gooey epoxy will run anywhere, use a release agent to coat your action so the epoxy does not stick to it. I use automotive car wax. Some people use shoe polish. Basically you want a whisper thin coat. wipe it on, and wipe most of it off. You should almost not know it is there. THe idea is you want a skin-tight perfect impression of your action metal, so the less wax the better. It will provide a non-stick barrier to the metal that will prevent the epoxy from sticking.
20. At this point your two home-depot action bolts should be in, and should also get a layer of wax. Same for the action screw holes, and the inside of the bedding pillars.
21. Mix up the epoxy. Mix up more than you think you need.
22. I use a butter knife, or chep plastic knives from McDonalds or Wendy's.
23. Put the epoxy into the stock area, whereever you need it.
24. Coat the action with a thin layer of epoxy as well, as this will prevent air bubbles from being (visibly) captured between your bedding and action.
25. Lower the action in slowly, and the headless action bolts should slide into the bedding pillars smootly.
26. Don't press down hard, just carefully seat the action.
27. Secure the action in the stock for 24 hours. Some use latex tubing, and wrap it around the stock/action several times. Some use bungee, or inner-tube rubber. Some use the bolts and run a nut up them and stug the nuts up. So long as it gently yet securly holds the action still, it should be good.
28. Now would be a good time to carefully scoop off some of the epoxy that squished out the sides. Don't touch anything other than the big squishy bits. If you didn't get any squishing out, that is likely a sign you didn't use enough epoxy. You might want to consider pulling it apart and adding more epoxy if this is the case.
29. Don't touch it, don't even look at it. Step away.
30. Come back the next day, and release the action.
31. This next bit is nerve wracking. You might need to gently hammer on your action or barrel to release it from the epoxy. If you did everything right, it should gently snap away from the expoxy, usually by pulling up on the barrel. It might take a little to get it moving, go easy, and slowly increase force.
32. Try and pull the action out as straight as possible, so the recoil lug doesn't break off epoxy.
33. If everything went well, you will have a rock-sold impression of your action permanently attached to the inside of your stock, so perfect you can see machining marks.
34. Pull all that masking tape, modelling clay, wax, off of your action and stock.
35. You will want to clean up the bedding job as well, with a dremel or chisels. Mostly you will be trimming the top of the bedding where the epoxy squished out, and the magwell inlet, and likely around the rear bedding screw where the trigger group is.
36. Reassemble you cleaned up rifle, and check for fucntion. It should have a rock-solid perfect fit in the stock.
THere are plenty of you-tube videos that cover this, it is much easier to see how it is done than read it. Watch a bunch of them, and it will become clear. If you are nervous, practice this process by bedding an old wrench or something onto a 2x4. You will quickly understand the concept of release agents and mechanical locks, without much risk.
