Help with my Savage Ejector...PLEASE!

stanway

stanway

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Hi All,

I am in need of some help. I have a recently acquired Savage 110 in 7mm Rem Mag and everything seems to work fine except for the ejector on the bolt face. I fed an empty case with a live primer to test everything. Primer popped, but the case would not eject (throw from the rifle).

How in the heck to you remove the ejector? It is completely recessed in the bolt face and seems to be jammed/frozen - not wanting to move at all.

I welcome any help &/or comments.

Thanks!

James
 
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Hard to make that post out but if you are saying the ejector is stuck then remove the bolt and hold it in your hand. Whack the bolt head with a screwdriver handle. If that doesn't work after ruining your screwdriver handle :D , take a 1/16" punch and sand the tip a bit so you can drive out the retaining pin. When the punch is through and the pin is out, place the head face down on the table top and remove the punch. This helps control the spring loaded part. WEAR SAFEY GLASSES if its still in there and work at it some more.
 
stanway said:
Thanks Rob. However, the ejector is still stuck. I removed the retaining pin and nothing moved. :(

Am I going to have to drill the ejector out?:mad:
Click to expand...

Try some WD40. Either the pin is rusted in, or brass shavings have jammed it. Fiddle with it with a sharp point and try poking it with a small dia punch to try to loosen it. It is under spring pressure, so when it loosens be ready to catch/retain it and the spring.

NormB
 
I had exactly the same problem with a 308 and tried everything suggested here, as well as Kroil and everything else I could think of, to no avail.

Sent it away last week to a professional 'smith to have it repaired.

Ted
 
Why not? said:
I had exactly the same problem with a 308 and tried everything suggested here, as well as Kroil and everything else I could think of, to no avail.

Sent it away last week to a professional 'smith to have it repaired.

Ted
Click to expand...



Thanks guys.

I have tried soaking it in penetrating oil, pushing, poking, tapping to no avail. Looks like I'm going to have to stop in and visit Barry Jensen.

Oh well, this rifle is a 'winter project' for me.;)

Thanks again for all of your suggestions.

James
:cheers:
 
The spring is the problem and you will likely need a new one if you can't tap it out. Curious, how deep past flush is it? I've never stuck one but have gotten similar objects unstuck. Beating it with hard plastic or possibly dry or live firing the rifle if its under flush might pop it back out.

Brownell's
855-000-015 ejector
855-000-016 ejector retaining pin
855-000-017 ejector spring

Spare parts while your at it
855-000-018 extractor
855-000-074 extractor spring
855-000-051 extractor detent ball
 
PEI ROB said:
The spring is the problem and you will likely need a new one if you can't tap it out. Curious, how deep past flush is it? I've never stuck one but have gotten similar objects unstuck. Beating it with hard plastic or possibly dry or live firing the rifle if its under flush might pop it back out.

Brownell's
855-000-015 ejector
855-000-016 ejector retaining pin
855-000-017 ejector spring

Spare parts while your at it
855-000-018 extractor
855-000-074 extractor spring
855-000-051 extractor detent ball
Click to expand...


Thanks Rob. Those parts were exactly what I was thinking of replacing.

How is it ordering from Brownell's?

The ejector is about 1/16" below the surface. I'm sure I have pushed it in a little further with my "efforts".

I might try the live firing in a few weeks if/when I get a chance to get to the range.

James
 
If you do decide to try live fire to try to jar it loose, try "Liquid Wrench" penetrating oil. It comes in a small yellow aeroslol can at Canadian Tire. Best penetrating oil out there IMO (WD-40 has its uses, but loosening seized parts isn't one of them).
 
For pulling out springs, prying or manipulating small objects, etc., I use dental picks. Used ones can be had at Princes Auto, 4 to a pack, for about $5.00 dollars. Very useful to have around.
 
PEI ROB said:
Brownell's
855-000-015 ejector
855-000-016 ejector retaining pin
855-000-017 ejector spring

Spare parts while your at it
855-000-018 extractor
855-000-074 extractor spring
855-000-051 extractor detent ball
Click to expand...


Well, I just got off the phone with Brownell's and the parts are on order. So while I wait for them to come in, I will work on getting the old one out.

Update: I was successful with drilling out the old ejector. I used a 1/16" drill and removed enough material to work the ejector loose. The spring also came out, but looked quite compressed - I will compare it to the new one.

Thanks again for all your help guys.

James
 
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Great, now the tough question. Why did it stick?
I've heard and read many times that a hot load can cause this in an otherwise fine working rifle. Not sure about that but excessive headspace gives that type of ejector a far rougher ride. I would check the ejector hole and attempt to clean and polish it up a bit as well as putting a layer at a time of scotch tape on the case head of an unfired case. Carefully remove the projectile of a factory round if you do not relaod, still "dangerous" but no so deadly.

Cheers,
Rob
 
PEI ROB said:
Great, now the tough question. Why did it stick?
I've heard and read many times that a hot load can cause this in an otherwise fine working rifle.
Click to expand...

There is no way of knowing for sure why it stuck. It came to me in that condition. The rifle did need a good cleaning, so it could be a build up of rust and crud over time.


PEI ROB said:
as well as putting a layer at a time of scotch tape on the case head of an unfired case.
Click to expand...

Why the tape on the case head? What are you checking or looking for with this? I am curious.


James
 
Headspace. When the firing pin strikes the primer, the case is driven forwards until the shoulder/belt/rim makes contact. A gap is now between the bolt face and the case head, they are no longer touching. As pressure builds the sides of the case expand tightly against the chamber and holds the case in position, still with the gap present. As pressure builds higher than the strength of the brass, the case stretchs. This happens fairly quickly and the ejector touching the case gets pushed back so fast it bottoms out. If this gap is large, the ejector has a good run on and slams hard into the bottom of the hole and over compresses the spring.

Trimming a piece of tape at a time on an unfired case head and closing the bolt will tell you how much gap you have. Measure the thickness of the tape and the number of pieces and when the bolt is harder to close, bingo. People have a habit of shortening conversation and describe headspace as this gap; we often subtract the proper measurement and only state this "gap" measurement as the headspace measurement. Headspace is a measurement from the case head to the point on the case that is designed to stop the case from going futher inside the chamber. The shoulder of a 308, the belt of a 300 Win Mag and the rim of a .303 or even a .22lr are such points.

Cheers,
Rob
 
.010" total doesn't sound good to me. .220" is the go spec and .225" is the no go spec AFAIK. If you measure your brass its likely around .216", that would indicate your "gap" measurement is .226" ish. Safe to fire I would say but you should check with a gunsmith, I haven't rechecked my specs against others to find errors but I think they are correct. Simple to reset the headspace on yours, no worries. If it were mine I would adjust it, making sure the barrel still has a min .005" gap to the bolt head btw.

I am not a qualified gunsmith so I would suggest you contact one.

Cheers,
Rob
 
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