Hodgson trail boss with 45lc NEWBIE ques

shooterm said:
So I made a practice bullet no primer our powder to start learning. Now i have talked to a few people in person but I thought I asked some experts here to.
The manual states overall measurement 1.600. My round measure 1.599. My bullet is lead semi flat nose 200 gr. Now I read about the bullet it self and the groves at the bottom is were your lube is located. (Coloured line) and the last line is where the bullet lines up with edge of casing and crimp. My bullet edge/ crimp is just below that And if I did that my bullet overall length would be around 1.540. Plus when I made my dummy round there was a slight bulge where the bullet is inside the casing. I read it’s normal and some sites say possible to much crimping and a couple people I talked to said it was fine. Again I plan on visiting a few seasoned reloaders to get some answers and see my result. I am just tapping into other resources ie the gun nutz relaoders.
Thanks
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I load 250 g ,cast or plated,with 5.1 grains of trailboss.
Mine usually measures from 1.540 to 1.590.
I just use a slight crimp.
Plated are usually cheaper and cleaner.
They’re should be tons of places to get campro plated bullets ,in Alberta.
 
So I am within spec and fits well and the slight bulge were the bullet is seated is ok. But if i wanted to seat the bullet a bit more what would be the maximum as to not cause over pressurization?
 
So shot my first reloads today even had them checked over by someone who all they do is reload just to make sure. It was a light load and it all went well can't wait to reload about sea can worth. I have noticed because so many cautious checks that my powder dispenser wouldn't do a full rotation down hence not giving me the req load desired, which made me double check my powder weight every time. I realize I have to make sure the dispenser does a full rotate to dump the req load but why isn't the dispenser doing a full rotation with out me assisting. anyone else have this issue or any tips?
 
shooterm said:
So shot my first reloads today even had them checked over by someone who all they do is reload just to make sure. It was a light load and it all went well can't wait to reload about sea can worth. I have noticed because so many cautious checks that my powder dispenser wouldn't do a full rotation down hence not giving me the req load desired, which made me double check my powder weight every time. I realize I have to make sure the dispenser does a full rotate to dump the req load but why isn't the dispenser doing a full rotation with out me assisting. anyone else have this issue or any tips?
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What powder measure are you using. Of the three I own, only my LEE perferct powder measure work with well with Trailboss. I've kept it only to use with this powder.
 
I also use the LEE powder dispenser and I find the powder hopper has a sweet spot.
When the Trail Boss is in the sweet range I get consistent charges, so after I found that range, I marked it with a magic marker on the dispenser and keep it between the marks while loading.
 
shooterm said:
Thanks guys, Yes I am just beginning but I do have help I just didn't consult them before I bought the bullets I assumed I would have got good knowledge from the store. I realize that it is the wrong size will try and take it back so will see if I can the big issue mostly was I couldn't find the load data for the grain/size thats when I realized the error.
I told the store what I was doing and needed and thats the size bullet I was told to get, I should have checked first with my mentors and double checked my book. I do have some people that can help I am starting with Hodgson trail boss because thats what was run through before. I will have load data that was used for it by previous owner which I know. The bullet was the big issue, when I got home looked up data on Hodgson and other sites and couldn't find anything thats when I realized this was to big of diameter. I will eventually use these same rounds for lever action I may get to. I am starting slow and will even have my bullets checked before I shoot.
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Unfortunately you typically can't trust any information you're given at the local gun shop. There are a couple exceptions but keep in mind that the person at the gun counter of Cabela's or Canadian Tire is usually just some guy who applied for a job not someone experienced with firearms. They may pick up the odd thing or two so they sound like they know what they're talking about but on more than one occasion I've told the person who's trying to assist me to stop talking about things they don't know about and not to spread misinformation to customers.
You need to do your own research before you go to the store and know what you're looking for exactly.

I don't want to discourage you from reloading but you definitely need to do more research and learn your equipment better before you get going. Buying .458 insted of .452 is a good example of the need to do more research.

Figuring it out as you go can be very dangerous and expensive, when I first started loading pistol on a progressive I ended up having a brand new HK USP Tactical (almost $2000 pistol at the time) blow up in my hands. I got lucky and only the pistol was destroyed, it could have very easily gone much worse.
This is why I discourage new loaders from using a progressive press, you need to learn the fundamentals of loading before you try to automate the process. Making things easy and fast is not a good idea until you've got the whole process locked down so you recognize when the machine doesn't work right. All it takes is one cartridge with a short powder throw to lodge a bullet in the barrel followed by the one that splits the barrel.

If you're around Edmonton PM me and I can give you a hand if you want.
You want someone with lots of reloading experience not just some guy who's thrown together a few rounds of 30-06 for hunting.
 
.452 in 255 grain are the ideal food for doing a SAA 45 colt. 6 grains of Titegroup is nice and clean and accurate. I buy Campro copper plated 250 grain bullets from site sponsor Western Metal for what I feel is a great deal. I keep pondering buying all the crap to start casting my own, but these campro bullets make it tough to justify... there would be no cost savings.

.458 is too big and 350 grain is too heavy
 
I abandoned trailboss for 45LC and keep it exclusively for light loads in my 45-70. It's as dirty as black powder. For 45 LC I've found red dot to be the cleanest of all the powders I've tried for 45LC. The trailboss would literally gum up my 1873 lever by the end of a match unless the gun was completely dry, not drop of lube in the gun or it turned into a black goo by about 100 rds.
 
A little off your topic but I started loading 45lc last year for my Uberti 7.5" barrel and I have found it one of the easiest cartridges to load. I don't use cast however, I stick with Campro or Hornady .452 bullets and either Unique or Titegroup. I love loading these, the bullets fit nice and smooth in the case mouth and I have enjoyed great accuracy even with the Campro. You do find that with these large bullets, there is a very slight bulge but it doesn't seem to effect anything.
 
cr5 said:
Unfortunately you typically can't trust any information you're given at the local gun shop. There are a couple exceptions but keep in mind that the person at the gun counter of Cabela's or Canadian Tire is usually just some guy who applied for a job not someone experienced with firearms. They may pick up the odd thing or two so they sound like they know what they're talking about but on more than one occasion I've told the person who's trying to assist me to stop talking about things they don't know about and not to spread misinformation to customers.
You need to do your own research before you go to the store and know what you're looking for exactly.

I don't want to discourage you from reloading but you definitely need to do more research and learn your equipment better before you get going. Buying .458 insted of .452 is a good example of the need to do more research.

Figuring it out as you go can be very dangerous and expensive, when I first started loading pistol on a progressive I ended up having a brand new HK USP Tactical (almost $2000 pistol at the time) blow up in my hands. I got lucky and only the pistol was destroyed, it could have very easily gone much worse.
This is why I discourage new loaders from using a progressive press, you need to learn the fundamentals of loading before you try to automate the process. Making things easy and fast is not a good idea until you've got the whole process locked down so you recognize when the machine doesn't work right. All it takes is one cartridge with a short powder throw to lodge a bullet in the barrel followed by the one that splits the barrel.

If you're around Edmonton PM me and I can give you a hand if you want.
You want someone with lots of reloading experience not just some guy who's thrown together a few rounds of 30-06 for hunting.
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Thanks and that’s what I did I also been lots of researching and tapping into all resources ie gunnitz. The over sized round was obviously to big and got that answer when I got home and realized it and took it back the next morning then got what I required . I also did a lot of practice for making a a couple dummy rounds and practiced dispensing powder. To ensure everything was good I had guys who all they do is reload and got there expertise and inspection of my rounds before I loaded live. Once I loaded I double checked each round powder and bullet. I had guy who again all he does is reload inspect at the range. It went well at the range! I will start reloading more keep the loads light to learn and on the safety side till I get more experience gradually going up.
My last question was after checking everything twice I noticed my lee dispenser that came with my classic turret lee press wouldn’t due a full roatation down to dispense all powder. Found this out by practicing and checking my work over. I had to assist the the dispenser by ensuring it does a full rotation down. The name of the specific powder measure I can’t remeber at the moment and I am not Home to get the info on it just though I would pop the question here to see if anyone else had the issue and possible fix
 
Some good responses on this thread. I also like that the op seems to want to learn and listen.

I myself have a lot of experience with bottleneck rifle, and very little with pistol.

My points....it's a life long process, learning about reloading. Secondly, don't worry about the equipment you have, it's only a start. Pretty sure I have something from every manufacturer.

Join the EE , do Google searches (canada) of kit, and read reviews. Keep asking questions and get a manual. Many of the questions and steps are explained, lots of recipes as well.
 
Thanks
That’s the more info from different sources the better I plan on learning from where ever I can. other then the book I got and the info internet/pers. I am starting to look at reloading magazines. Are there books that u guys would recommend
 
Which setup are you running for the progressive?

I prime every piece of brass with my RCBS hand primer. It lets me inspect every piece before loading and ensures all primers are correctly installed. I don't trust the primer systems on presses unless it's a Dillon. I think my bad round was made during a primer jam, I probably half stroked the handle and double charged it or something. Was .45 auto so easy to double charge with many powders. Since then I removed the primer feeder from my press and have never had a problem since. Definitely slows me down but I can still make a lot of cartridges in an afternoon if I don't get distracted.
 
shooterm said:
Thanks
That’s the more info from different sources the better I plan on learning from where ever I can. other then the book I got and the info internet/pers. I am starting to look at reloading magazines. Are there books that u guys would recommend
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While respecting the OP's thread, I too would like to know which of the reloading manuals are the best, say the top 3 in order of preference. I can't afford to buy them all at this point, but would like to start with the one you all believe is the 'best'.
 
cr5 said:
Which setup are you running for the progressive?

I prime every piece of brass with my RCBS hand primer. It lets me inspect every piece before loading and ensures all primers are correctly installed. I don't trust the primer systems on presses unless it's a Dillon. I think my bad round was made during a primer jam, I probably half stroked the handle and double charged it or something. Was .45 auto so easy to double charge with many powders. Since then I removed the primer feeder from my press and have never had a problem since. Definitely slows me down but I can still make a lot of cartridges in an afternoon if I don't get distracted.
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I have the Auto Drum Powder Measure that comes with the lee classic turret press from cabelas.
 
Pax+Caritas said:
While respecting the OP's thread, I too would like to know which of the reloading manuals are the best, say the top 3 in order of preference. I can't afford to buy them all at this point, but would like to start with the one you all believe is the 'best'.
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One isn't enough, I own the Hornady 9 and 10 (bought 10 for the latest 6.5 Creedmoor and 300 Blackout data), and the Nosler 7 as well as a couple older ones plus I've made a binder with all the free data I can find.
I use the Hornady manual the most because I mostly shoot Hornady projectiles but I also like Nosler and I reference all of them to figure out starting loads when using random projectiles like Campro or Berry's.
They cost about the same as a box of bullets, you can afford a manual or two.


shooterm said:
I have the Auto Drum Powder Measure that comes with the lee classic turret press from cabelas.
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I'm not familiar with that one, I have the Lee auto disk with my Lee 1000 that I use for pistol loads. I bought a turret press for doing 44mag and other more plinking loads where I want faster than the single stage but more controlled than the progressive. I also use an RCBS Chargemaster combo for all my reloading and verifying the auto disk is measuring right.
My bench has three presses on it :p
 
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Buy the manual for the bullet your going to reload. Hornady for their Hornady bullets etc.... For cast lead bullets use the Lyman cast bullet manual. I also like the Speer #14, they seem to use test barrel lengths more in line with the real world.
 
It will be hard (and expensive!) to buy every manual for every bullet if you do a lot of experimenting. Usually you can get a load by asking in the Reloading Forum if you don't have that particular manufacturer's manual. I tend to interchange data for similar bullets but there are limitations to that also. For instance don't interchange mono-metal bullet data with jacketed bullet data.

For me the best reloading manuals have been
1. Lyman
2. Hodgdon No 25
3. Speer

But now days I get just as much data free online as I do from the manuals. Hodgdon Online Reloading Centre is a good source. Alliiant and the other powder manufacturers have good data online too.
 
The most important thing about owing several different reloading manuals is the “how to reload instructions” given in the first few chapters. Having different authors explain a particular aspect or step in the reloading process helps in understanding of that step or overall concepts. The load recipes given in the later chapter are required study for comparison to other recipes for the same cartridge. Sometimes the printed manuals have errors and require a person to download and file an errata correction page. Cross checking a load recipe with other recipe resources to see if a recipe make sense is a very important aspect in choosing a load for you gun.
 
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