Home bluing method

billbmcleod said:
To get that temperature you need a large amount of caustic in the solution. The greater the concentration the higher the temperature achieved.
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I need 20 lbs of lye to get a batch mixed for my tank. Monitor my boiling temperature by adding more water as it boils.

Just dump 20 lbs of lye into a bucket of water and it gets pretty toasty warm.

Fun stuff. Very time consuming, but not nearly as difficult as some might have you think. That said, I don't suggest everyone goes out and tries to make their own bluing solution, someone's bound to get burned badly....
 
maple leaf said:
I've used this on various muzzleloader a over the years with great results.

Plumb Browning Solution
1/2 tablespoon of salt
2 tablespoon of vinegar
8 tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide

Before browning, sand metal with 320 grit sandpaper and degrease with acetone (nail polish remover) before and after each coat. Heat the metal with a propane torch to speed up the process before each coat, though it is not a mandatory step. Wipe on the solution. Do not spray it on as it gives an uneven Coat. Card the metal (rub it) after each coat with an old piece of denim. Once you reach the desired colour, neutralize the metal after you are done by putting it in motor oil. I personally put the metal pieces through eight coats of the solution and was very pleased by the transformation from a white barrel to the brown.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
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Would this process work with modern rifles and handguns? What is the wait time between coats?
 
TheCoachZed said:
I'm very interested, as I want to blue my brother-in-law's shotgun and have no proper bluing kit, nor are they readily available due to COVID-19. So you're saying after proper prep (degreasing, de-rusting, etc), I'd put the metal into a boilable container and boil at 275, take out, check colour, and so on?
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Yup, I've done it a couple of times. It's not my idea though. I read it here on CGN about ten years ago. The Brits call it Bronzing.

Yes Tokguy, you need something that will handle the heat. My first attempt was done in a cut in half 6in Cast Iron pipe, with end plates welded on to stop leaking.

You need to make sure the tank doesn't have any dirt or grease in it as well. Ask me how I know.

There are a couple of U tube videos on it as well.
 
I've got some 2" square stock that will nicely swallow a barrel. I'll build something to suspend the tank ( 2" square stock capped on one end )inside a piece on 6" stove pipe; that shall keep the flame from a tiger torch focused on the task. Lazer thermometer and Bob's your Uncle.
Any thoughts as to how thick to make the solution?
 
maple leaf said:
I've used this on various muzzleloader a over the years with great results.

Plumb Browning Solution
1/2 tablespoon of salt
2 tablespoon of vinegar
8 tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide

Before browning, sand metal with 320 grit sandpaper and degrease with acetone (nail polish remover) before and after each coat. Heat the metal with a propane torch to speed up the process before each coat, though it is not a mandatory step. Wipe on the solution. Do not spray it on as it gives an uneven Coat. Card the metal (rub it) after each coat with an old piece of denim. Once you reach the desired colour, neutralize the metal after you are done by putting it in motor oil. I personally put the metal pieces through eight coats of the solution and was very pleased by the transformation from a white barrel to the brown.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
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Well this is all stuff I have on hand.


How long do you wait to card after application?
 
tokguy said:
I've got some 2" square stock that will nicely swallow a barrel. I'll build something to suspend the tank ( 2" square stock capped on one end )inside a piece on 6" stove pipe; that shall keep the flame from a tiger torch focused on the task. Lazer thermometer and Bob's your Uncle.
Any thoughts as to how thick to make the solution?
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4 pints (8 cups) of double filtered water and 5 cans of Drano Kitchen Crystals.
 
Here's what Wikipedia has to say about Draino. I'm assuming the sodium nitrate is the part that does the blueing. Haven't seen anybody mention safety procedures here, but this stuff is caustic as hell and you want to treat it accordingly. Composition of the blueing tank is also something to consider.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drano

Grizz
 
I have 2 hot bluing tanks, but due to the serious safety issues, don't do hot bluing anymore. With proper prep work, cold blue can be pretty effective. Otherwise i tend to sandblast and Armacoat.
 
I spent the majority of my adult life around Caustic Soda beads being mixed in 45 gal open top drums...it is not an errand for fools. Present Company excepted ( Me )
 
I'm pretty sure you will regret using 2" square tubing. It foams up quite violently and I can't imagine it won't make a mess. Even 4" would be chancing it. If you must then do it outside and have the garden hose at the ready. Wear a face shield or goggles.
If you try it on the kitchen stove....divorce is imminent.!
 
pjs said:
I'm pretty sure you will regret using 2" square tubing. It foams up quite violently and I can't imagine it won't make a mess. Even 4" would be chancing it. If you must then do it outside and have the garden hose at the ready. Wear a face shield or goggles.
If you try it on the kitchen stove....divorce is imminent.!
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I'm listening, perhaps a row of vent holes along the top to discourage that...I'll ponder upon it.
 
I'm not holding out for SS, but after not 1 but 2 members said " It'll choke and foam...spooky!"
So, I'm going to try to figure out a better way...thanks all.
Tokguy
 
If it were me I would try boiling it in water, and using a soft wire buffing wheel (if you can't touch it with your fingers when it's spinning, it's not soft enough) to polish.
By boiling the rust, it should convert the ferrous oxide (red rust) to ferro-ferric oxide (black rust - old school bluing). Might have to do it a few times to get that amount of rust off.
 
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I was thinking about trying the black oxide that Caswell sells. It seems pretty simple. But advertising can be a bit optimistic . Has any one tried it? And if anyone has ,do you plug the bore before you dip it?
 
Caswell's black oxide is similar to any other instant blue. It does not have the durability of real bluing.
If you want to know the chemicals of a product - look for the MSDS on their website.
Caswells uses a selenium/copper colouring reaction like Birchwood Casey or other instant blue.
They say right on their product description that the colourant is not durable, it requires a sealant which is where any durability is.
 
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