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dodgeman308

dodgeman308

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hey everyone, i am new to this, but here we go.. ok i am going to be starting reloading and i have chosen the hornady 165gr. interbond bullet as my bullet to start with, i have chosen varget as my powder and i will be using federal brass that i have fired from my rifle. now i need a recipe for how much powder to use and which primers i should use, if anyone out there has a similar set up i would greatly appretiate any and all input. my rifle is a savage model 10fcp hs-precision with harris bipod and nikon monarch 6-24 x50. i will most likely not be doing much further shooting than 300 yards. thanks again

greg
 
It doesn't really matter what primer you use as long as its a large rifle primer. Winchester WLR will probably be easy to find.

You'll find the recipe here:
http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp

Highly recommend you pick up a reloading manual. The Lyman is a good one and it isn't expensive. It will answer most of your questions and provide you with the knowledge you need to reload in a safe manner. The Hornady manual will have the exact bullet and powder combination you mentioned.

In any case, you shouldn't be using recipes you're getting off an internet forum when you're first starting out.
 
ok, thank you very much i appretiate the help.. i will try that website... i do have the lyman 49th edition manual and have read it a few times for everything pertaining to what i will be doing...plan to read it a few more times as well... jsut having a hard time finding the info to go with this type of bullet and powder combo, and i wouldn't want to just try out a random charge.. so thank you again and i will deff. be looking into that website
 
you're chambered in .308 Win right? I found this on the Hodgdon website;

165 GR. HDY SP Hodgdon Varget .308" Overall length: 2.750"
42.0 2582 40,800 CUP
46.0 2773 50,500 CUP
So start at 42 grains of Varget and work your way up to a max of 46 grains or until you see signs of excessive pressure (popped out primers) or find a nice grouping from your rifle. Don't go higher than 46 grains.
In my experience the weight of the bullet is the main factor to consider, it doesn't have to say "interbond" on the info to be useable. Compare what different bullet manufacturers recommend for the same weight of bullet just to be sure one isn't totally off base. I have found the Hodgdon website to be very good for load data everything off there I've tried has worked very well and been safe.
Those 165 gr bullets work great in my Garand (30-06 actually) and should be really good in your .308 as well.
 
ok, thank you again to everyone... proonur, you actually answered the question that i should've been asking actually.. that weight of the bullet is more important than the brand/model of bullet.. thanks again to all i greatly appretiate it
 
Don't be disappointed if the first bullet/powder combination you try is not more accurate than the factory loads you have been using.It often takes more than one bullet/powder combination to find an accurate load.
 
dodgeman308 said:
didn't have any luck with that website as far as i could tell they didn't list the 165gr. interbond
Click to expand...

Here is your data from the website. The book uses the same data for the soft point as the InterBond. I started at 42 but ended up at 44.5, which is a compressed load (very slightly compressed). In my BLR I had 3-4 inch groups until I started hitting compressed loads. No pressure signs and Sub MOA groups.



165 GR. HDY SP Hodgdon Varget .308" 2.750" 42.0 2582 40,800 CUP 46.0C 2773 50,500 CUP
 
I started loading for my .308 with the 165 IB and Varget. I worked up to 46gr, but never chrony'd the load, as the accuracy was not what I was looking for. Switched to IMR4895 and the groups tightened up to under 1"...

FWIW, I don't think you can just pick one powder that you will use. You can start with one, but it may or may not give the accuracy you want, or the velocity. Or it may work out fine, just keep an open mind.;)
 
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If someone was just starting to reload, and 308 Win. was the first caliber they were trying; I would suggest a 168 SMK over 41.5gr. IMR4895 @ 2.800" COAL.

Its the token 308 load and would in all likely hood give them excellent results on their first reloading attempt rather than the potential for frustration.
 
My buddy who loads for his M14 does very, very well with IMR 4895. Don't know his exact load data though but his groupings are outstanding.
Varget has worked as good or better in my .223 and 30-06 loads than any other powder. It's like a do-everything powder for me, very consistant and stable at temperature and altitude changes, but every gun is different and I have about 5 containers of other powders I've tried sitting around doing nothing while I keep using Varget.
I guess experimenting is half the fun, eh? :D
 
proonur said:
In my experience the weight of the bullet is the main factor to consider, it doesn't have to say "interbond" on the info to be useable. Compare what different bullet manufacturers recommend for the same weight of bullet just to be sure one isn't totally off base. I have found the Hodgdon website to be very good for load data everything off there I've tried has worked very well and been safe.
Those 165 gr bullets work great in my Garand (30-06 actually) and should be really good in your .308 as well.
Click to expand...

Jim, sometimes you have to be cautious this way too. Our apprentice here may not yet know some bullets which have heavier jackets (Swifts/partition) or are of solid copper (Barnes) will generate the higher pressures than a run of the mill cup and core Remington PSP bulk bullet. If he used loads for a softer bullet but a Barnes bullet on top there is chance for running high pressure real fast.

The bullet shape itself can change pressures too, a round nose bullet can (but not always) have a shorter bearing surface in the bore compared to a lot of the Boat tailed spire points.

You could try getting a load figured out with standard Hornady bullets (Interlocks) and once you find what works you can back it off a touch and try the the Interbond. At half the price you might find what you are trying to achieve a bit easier on the wallet.;)

Good to see another addition to the reloading world.:)
FWIW I found IMR 4320 to work very well in the 308's I've owned.
 
Good advice, Noel.

On paper 4320 is an excellent powder for 308. If you have a 8 pound can of it, you can make real good ammo. BUT 4320 is very bad for lot to lot variations. I would not suggest it to anyone who buys powder a pound at a time.
 
I might have used three pounds of 4320 total, each would have been a different lot number pretty much guaranteed. Seemed to be pretty consistant but I was trying so many different bullets then it could have varied and I never would have noticed having starting from scratch all the time.
The 165gr Barnes and 180gr Partition sure worked well on top of it.

Oh no, I just admitted to using a Barnes product! lol
 
What cartridge? Use 165 grain jacketed bullet data from your manual. Who made the bullet or it's construction doesn't matter unless it's a Barnes bullet.
Any large rifle primer will do.
 
sunray said:
Who made the bullet or it's construction doesn't matter unless it's a Barnes bullet.
Any large rifle primer will do.
Click to expand...

Huh?!:runaway: You cannot make a statement that bold to a person new to reloading. There are other brands of bullets out there that are solid. The Swift is solid in the rear bearing surface area. Even the Partitions mantle will run higher pressures.

If he was going from the starting charges in a manual then maybe but you can not assume that is where he will start.

I have found going from a CCI200 to a CCI250 primer can jump the velocity close to 100 fps in a medium bore case.

Best bet is either buy a couple manuals for the bullets you will be using or have a look at one in a store to compare if the shop owner doesn't mind. TO turn a newbie loose like that is setting him up to be a pirate.:pirate:
 
Use 165 grain jacketed bullet data from your manual. Who made the bullet or it's construction doesn't matter unless it's a Barnes bullet.
Click to expand...

General statements like the one above are not accurate.I find that the pure jacket bullets also often result in increased pressure compared to many other bullets.
 
Noel said:
Jim, sometimes you have to be cautious this way too. Our apprentice here may not yet know some bullets which have heavier jackets (Swifts/partition) or are of solid copper (Barnes) will generate the higher pressures than a run of the mill cup and core Remington PSP bulk bullet. If he used loads for a softer bullet but a Barnes bullet on top there is chance for running high pressure real fast.

The bullet shape itself can change pressures too, a round nose bullet can (but not always) have a shorter bearing surface in the bore compared to a lot of the Boat tailed spire points.

You could try getting a load figured out with standard Hornady bullets (Interlocks) and once you find what works you can back it off a touch and try the the Interbond. At half the price you might find what you are trying to achieve a bit easier on the wallet.;)

Good to see another addition to the reloading world.:)
FWIW I found IMR 4320 to work very well in the 308's I've owned.
Click to expand...


I agree with you Noel, there's always a few exceptions to a rule of thumb and that's why I said to compare a starting load with other bullet types too, just to be sure one isn't a lot higher or lower than the others (such as would be the case with the heavier jacketed ones). Even then, start at the bottom or lightest load and work up watching for signs of excessive pressure.
Being cautious is always a good idea when it comes to your fingers, face and favourite rifle! ;)
 
sunray said:
What cartridge? Use 165 grain jacketed bullet data from your manual. Who made the bullet or it's construction doesn't matter unless it's a Barnes bullet.
Any large rifle primer will do.
Click to expand...

Here we go again, mis-informing newbies...:rolleyes:
 
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