How clean is clean?

ninepointer

ninepointer

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I clean my shotguns after every shoot, go through numerous patches and I inspect the barrels from both ends. The bores are mirror bright, there's no lead fouling and no plastic residue. I wrap my patches around a bronze brush and I can't say that I've ever gotten a "clean" patch out of a shotgun barrel. Are my shotguns clean enough?
 
ninepointer said:
I clean my shotguns after every shoot, go through numerous patches and I inspect the barrels from both ends. The bores are mirror bright, there's no lead fouling and no plastic residue. I wrap my patches around a bronze brush and I can't say that I've ever gotten a "clean" patch out of a shotgun barrel. Are my shotguns clean enough?
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ummmm, ya I would say so:eek: My shotgun cleaning usually consists of a bore snake at the end of the day and if i see there is some stuck on residue then I clean further. Other than that I put them away after the boresnake and a wee bit of oil. But I mean to each and their own right.
 
I very rarely even clean the bore. I usually just wipe it down with WD-40 until next time. I think what you're doing is probably overkill. As long as the action and trigger mechanism are fairly clean and free of debris I think that should suffice.
 
Shots

Depending on the number of shots fired, your barrel should be coming out clean after your above mentioned process. Powder choice will make clean-up easier or harder depending on what you use. Most shotguns I've cleaned usually don't require more than 10 patches used in your above mentioned method. I also use a bore snake first which really cleans out the barrel, not spic'n'span but almost mirror finish.
 
A boresnake is all I usually use for the barrel. Shotguns are kind of forgiving firearms when it comes to the barrel. Mine have always been clean after one swipe. The actions get a lot more attention than the barrels.
 
I don't care which gun I'm cleaning, run wet patches followed by dry through until it comes out clean. If I've put a ton of rounds through it, or carried it in the field for an extended period, I'll use a bristle brush for the first pass or three. Then patches wrapped over the end of a blunt tip for the cleaning rod until it's...well....clean.
Then oil it, clean the action, oil that, oil the exterior, including wood, whipe away excess, and move to the safe holding it with shop towels to prevent finger printing.
 
Personally, I dont think you can be too anal on cleaning your firearm. If you want to keep your guns for a long time make a good cleaning kit.(I keep mine in a fishing tackle box) Never underestimate the power of a regular toothbrush. All that residue if left on your firearm will eventually harden and wont come off. Its just good practice to keep your firearms clean.

Also, despite what anyone says, never use WD40. Hell, I never use WD40 as a lubricant period, because it is not a lubricant.
 
deets said:
Personally, I dont think you can be too anal on cleaning your firearm. If you want to keep your guns for a long time make a good cleaning kit.(I keep mine in a fishing tackle box) Never underestimate the power of a regular toothbrush. All that residue if left on your firearm will eventually harden and wont come off. Its just good practice to keep your firearms clean.

Also, despite what anyone says, never use WD40. Hell, I never use WD40 as a lubricant period, because it is not a lubricant.
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That last bit is good advice. It's great to get the water out of your 870 action or the distributor cap on your truck, even to remove tar from your rocker panels, but not as a lubricant.
 
ninepointer said:
I clean my shotguns after every shoot, go through numerous patches and I inspect the barrels from both ends. The bores are mirror bright, there's no lead fouling and no plastic residue. I wrap my patches around a bronze brush and I can't say that I've ever gotten a "clean" patch out of a shotgun barrel. Are my shotguns clean enough?
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Believe that applies to the majority of us.

The initial application of bore foam is an effective method to "soften up" the process of cleaning.....subsequently, I run wet patches of Hoppe's followed by dry patches. Lastly, oil patch followed by dry patch to ensure nothing seeps down the bore.

After a heavy range session, if I want to take it to an extreme then a bronze brush/rod hooked to a drill is also put to use somewhere in the process :).

IMO, WD40 is not a good idea for firearms maintenance. Moreover, I would refrain from oiling the wood even if it's just a very thin film on the surface. For this purpose, I find that Birchwood Casey's silicon cloth works very well for wiping both wood/metal and leaves a protective coating all over the exterior of the firearm.
 
personally, I like using beeswax to protect my wood furniture. Its cheap compared to any specialized firearm products, natural and alot of products have beeswax as part of there ingredients.
 
if you think your bore is clean but your patches arent coming through 100% snow white, you might have some light surface rust you cant see.
you guys who just run some patches or a boresnake through would be suprised what you find when you give the bore a vigorous scrubbing with a bronze phosphor brush and a good bore solvent.
 
Paulusmaximus2 said:
I have a question about the boresnakes and brushes people use, how do you clean them?
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dish soap and warm water in the sink.
if i ever put anything like that - soaked with solvents, grime, oil - in the washing machine my g/f would beat me senseless. not to mention youd have to run an entire load for just one boresnake or itd shred everything up with the brush.
 
It's been swabbed and brushed...Everything...is clean...Beautiful.
So that it slides perfect....Nice.
Everything clean....Oiled.
So that your action is beautiful.
Smooth Charlene.

Full-Metal-Jacket-ps03.jpg
 
Why not oil the wood stock? I use an oil finish on finished wood at work all the time, I've re-oiled hundred year old floors...don't see any reason not to oil it if it doesn't have a negative effect on the factory finish.
 
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