Mrgoat, I would sure like to sit and have coffee with you. So many similar experiences and your gortex experiences are a mirror image of mine.
I get a kick out of these people telling us what shoddy clothes and footwear we had, when they don't have a clue of what we wore, or the quality of it. The Salish Indians from Vancouver Island made (don't know if they still do, or not) a terrific sweater, for the roughest of winter weather. They carded and spun the virgin wool, making a very coarse yarn, thus a thick, but not overly heavy, garmet. Before they were washed too many times, they were almost waterproof.
I bought one in the 1950s, just before going on a tough hunting trip by open river boat. We were most of the day on the boat and for most of the day it snowed, a very wet and moist snow. It built up on a person, but just on the verge of turning to water. At trips end at supper time I took off the sweater and my shirt was dry under it, only a little damp around the shoulders!
Over the years I fell for the hype of "thermal" underwear, but soon discovered that for really cold weather, it was far inferrior to a good suit of Stanfields pure wool underwear, which we all wore in the cold weather of those bad old years of us in our inferrior clothes.
A way back in the depression years of the 1930s, when men hunted 12 months of the year for survival food, the standard footwear for cold and severe cold weather, was the old fashioned, ankle high buckskin moccasins made by the Indians. I suppose the vast majority of the readers of this thread won't have a clue of what I am talking about, but these moccasins were made from Indian tanned buckskin, complete with the finishing smoke cure. Each had large flaps that wrapped around your ankle, then the two long laces integrated into the moccasin, was wrapped around the ankle, over the flaps, to make a snow proof fitting over your socks. This was tremendous footwear for cold weather. They were as pliable as cloth, but tough. Your feet never got cold in them, even in the most severe cold weather. If you were sitting on a sleigh say, ones feet might start to get cold. So just walk or run a very little bit and the feet warmed right up. Warm feet all day, but the feet never sweated in them.
They were so quiet that a careful hunter, with his outer wool pants and jacket, could move noislessly through the bush. No finer footwear for cold weather hunting ever existed.
By the way, no one had to tell me these things. I got my first pair of genuine Indian smoke cure, buckskin mocassins when I was eight years old. They were my cold weather footear until I was an adult. I was able to buy my last ones in the 1950s, which I still have. The Indians used to make them and sell them to the little country store, where we all got them. It made a beautiful smokey buckskin aroma to the store, so noticeable as soon as one walked inside.
For warmer winter wear someone mentioned the terrible, heavy boots we had. Well I can tell you that from the late 1940s for about twenty years, we had a very neat boot of rubber bottoms and leather tops. They were neat, light and quite pliable. Warm enough for quite cold weather and dry enough for wet snow conditions. Far supperior to anything I can find today that would take their place.