How do you level your scope on install?

Grizzlypeg

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I think I asked this once before, but I couldn't find the old posts. I'll explain how I do it, and see if anyone has a better method. I put the rifle on a bipod or in a vice and level the action after pointing the bore at a string with a weight on the end (plumb line). I then level the crosshairs on the string line and tighten the scope rings caps. After that, to boresight, I adjust the left right on the scope until both the rifle bore and scope align on the string, then it's off to the range. Anyone have a favorite device or method they want to share?
 
I use a variety of methods, most of which give me fairly crappy results!

After reading this I'm going into the basement with my level and I'm marking my wall as gallen270 did.

While on this subject, what do you guys do to keep your scope from moving about as you tighten the ring screws? Drives me crazy re-loosening and re-tightening ring screws as my scope twists in the rings. Weaver rings with screws only on one side seem the worst for this - damn things always twist the scope in towards the side with the screws being tightened, I literally have to purposely put the scope in ####-eyed a little, hoping that it twists straight as I tighten the screws - there's gotta be a better way!!!
 
I think I asked this once before, but I couldn't find the old posts. I'll explain how I do it, and see if anyone has a better method. I put the rifle on a bipod or in a vice and level the action after pointing the bore at a string with a weight on the end (plumb line). I then level the crosshairs on the string line and tighten the scope rings caps. After that, to boresight, I adjust the left right on the scope until both the rifle bore and scope align on the string, then it's off to the range. Anyone have a favorite device or method they want to share?

Your method is fine. Just tell us, how do you level the action?

:cheers: Kazimier
 
Some military guns and others have something flat on the receiver across which a level can be balanced. On others that don't have this, I put a level across the lower empty scope ring while I level it in a vise and aim the barrel bore at the string. Hopefully the scope base and rings are perpendicular to the bore. IMO ultimately when you shoot the gun, you introduce error by your inability to hold the gun perfectly level or judge that it's slightly off. I think some people hold their rifles crooked, because you may hold another guy's rifle and look through the scope and to me, its off level when I hold the rifle the way I'd hold it. Maybe to them its straight? I'm also debating how critical this is, unless you are holding way over or using target turrets and changing scope settings without sighters. What are your thoughts on the amount of precision necessary?
 
Place gun in v-notches.

Place torpedo level on flat part of rifle.

Put scope in lower rings.

Place torpedo level on dials and level.

I know the dials maynot be level. But it has always turned out level enough for me.
 
Place gun in v-notches.

Place torpedo level on flat part of rifle.

Put scope in lower rings.

Place torpedo level on dials and level.

I know the dials maynot be level. But it has always turned out level enough for me.

Its possible the dials may better reflect the path the reticle will move along during adjustment than the + of the reticle. I'd like to know what exactly is inside a scope. I've seen the reticle rotate on a scope, so I believe the up down, left/ right is independant of the reticle and associated with the mechanism that moves it, and not the lines of the reticle.
 
I'll hang a weighted line off a target at 100m. Off a bench, i'll grip the rifle for a comfortable, natural feel, then i'll turn the scope so the verticle reticle are flush with my line. I don't bother much with leveling the action, figuring shouldering, holding and aiming and having the lines verticle is more for me.
 
I have one of these. I got mine off of ebay.

h ttp://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=360476
 
As far as accurate shooting is concerned, it doesn't matter if the the scope (or iron sights) is level with the receiver. The important thing is that the scope is level when fired, every time.

People who tend to cant a rifle either need to mount the scope so that it is level from their shooting position or get rid of their canting habit.

I think its better to go with your natural position and adjust the equipment (the scope) to suit, unless your position is so messed up that it needs changes for other reasons.
 
:agree: You will never hold a rifle perfectly level unless it it benched and bagged.

I like to hold the rifle as I would and level the scope to me.

I stay well back from the window with the curtains open only a few inches and use the corner of a building or street lamp across the way.
 
1) level bench
2) level gun vice
3) level firearms action 9level across scope rings works on some)
4)level scope (small level across ajst. knobs)
5)tighten scope rings and chech all is still level
 
1. Mount picatinny rail to action
2. Mount rings to rail
3. place level across rings
4. Level rifle
5. mount scope
6. place level on elevation knob
7. level scope
8. mount anti-cant device.
 
As far as accurate shooting is concerned, it doesn't matter if the the scope (or iron sights) is level with the receiver. The important thing is that the scope is level when fired, every time.

until you get past 300 yards or so
 
As far as accurate shooting is concerned, it doesn't matter if the the scope (or iron sights) is level with the receiver. The important thing is that the scope is level when fired, every time.

People who tend to cant a rifle either need to mount the scope so that it is level from their shooting position or get rid of their canting habit.

I think its better to go with your natural position and adjust the equipment (the scope) to suit, unless your position is so messed up that it needs changes for other reasons.

This makes no sense to me. I would think that everything plumb and level is the ideal.
 
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