x2. All I know is that my AR's run better with a bit of grease that stays put when compared to oil that seeps out of the gun after a mag or two. I think for most people on this board either or will do just fine. But if you get a chance to take something like TR's Fighting Rifle you may find out differently.......Peace Out
How much oil to use on AR?
- Thread starter spartan1980
- Start date
x2. All I know is that my AR's run better with a bit of grease that stays put when compared to oil that seeps out of the gun after a mag or two. I think for most people on this board either or will do just fine. But if you get a chance to take something like TR's Fighting Rifle you may find out differently.......Peace Out
The teflon in BreakFree is not used as a lubricant. It is used as a drying agent. I met the inventor in the 80s! I will also locate the study at the Military college regarding stoppage in the M16 and the cure using BreakFree. It was a paper by a colonel getting his first star. It was quite some time ago in the late 80s. I just have to dig it up.
Regards,
Henry
As a dessicant yes, but the break free formula of teflon is still slick when dry.
The "Stainless Break Free" was first made for vulcan miniguns - and much thicker than regular Break Free, with more teflon , again to keep the carbon from sticking when the heat and evaporation of the carrier took place.
When marketed it was labelled "Stainless" because the teflon formula was also supposed to prevent stainless galling.
I liked it,but havent seen any for years -----
I use breakfree CLP cause its free. I run my carbines dripping wet on the range, the CLP mixes with the carbon fouling and still provides excellent lube. "You can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry" After firing they get another dose of CLP to begin breaking the carbon down before cleaning.
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The difference is that your vehicle is lubricated with by oil in a CLOSED system with a large reservoir of oil to draw from. Neither a reservoir nor a closed system is present with firearms.
TDC
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Everyone will tell you something different but here is what I do.
Keep the barrel, chamber and bolt face, dry.
CLP/ oil the following
Charging handle top and sides.
Bolt at the locking lugs, rings and that raised ring aft of the extractor.
Lube the firing pin, cam pin and bolt carrier along the sides of the gas key and the two raised "rails" on the bottom of the carrier.
A couple of drops on the pins and springs of the trigger mech in the lower then put it together and run it.
After a bunch of shooting I lock the bolt back and squirt oil on the far side of the upper reciever and on the bolt lugs, then I close the bolt and squirt the exposed portion of the bolt carrier making sure to get oil in the gas ports. Run the action a few times load and keep shooting.
For a quick clean (3-4 mins at lunch) I pull the bolt carrier, strip it down to the bolt, give everything a quick wipe (including the inside of the upper) with a rag then all the parts a shot of CLP as they go back together. Function test and reload.
The above works for me.
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Oh and a bunch of shooting is 500-1000 rnds.
For those who are interested I'm running AP-5 lube from Jet Lube out of Edmonton.
http://www.jetlubecanada.com/AP5.pdf
TDC
http://www.jetlubecanada.com/AP5.pdf
TDC
What're you using for cleaning barrels?
I disagree with the grease, but I have never tried it. I use the aerosol CLP and it works very well. I spray a shot down the upper reciever where the carrier goes and then I douse the bolt, and carrier and I make sure to spray inside where the bolt rings are by spraying into the holes in the bolt carrier.
I also spray a shot of clp into the buffer tube and a small shot into the trigger group area on the lower. Done and done.
I also spray a shot of clp into the buffer tube and a small shot into the trigger group area on the lower. Done and done.
Spray your rifle, shoot 500-1000 rounds then tell me how well it runs, if it makes it that far before choking. Don't spray your buffer tube/receiver extension, there is no need to lubricate the spring.
TDC
Adding lube like that to the fire control parts is asking for dirt build up for nothing gained.
You can lube a trigger/hammer pin - but other than that - you just adding lube for no sake.
- buffer tube
You shoul dhave some lube on the spring -- it will reduce friction, and help preserve the springs effectiveness under high cycling (springs heat when cycled and added friction creates more heat.
BUT not a tone of it
Cleaning
I tend to use MPro-7 cleaning kits - as I have a few since they where the only ones Brownells could ship to Iraq (they have no hazmat)
- here at KAC - we use KG Carbon Cutter, Hoppe's9 Copper cleaner, and TW-25B.
We also have piles of lubes that snake oil salesmen send to us.
Yea I guess the fire control parts don't need the lube, as long as there is lube on the pins which doesn't seem to go away I'm sure it will be just fine.
Yes, I added a "shot" of CLP down the buffer tube, not a tonne, Like we're talking a half second spray here not even.
TDC there was a time when I bought a case of .223 federal and sat at the range and shot it all off in a couple hours. I had not added any more CLP at all, and the rifle functioned flawlessly. I had no stoppages or anything, I can only conclude that it was a well built rifle and my mags were very good as well. Point being though, I did notice alot of carbon build up on the end of the bolt itself when pulled out of the carrier. It was the kind of carbon that just won't come off no matter what cleaning agent you use.
I asked about a bolt scraper and found one online but have yet to buy it.
Would adding lube to the lube service port on the bolt carrier to lubricate the bolt every 100 rounds reduce fouling? Or does it just get so damn hot in there that it's impossible to reduce the fouling?
The rifle has about 2000 rounds through it and I've had no problems still, and the end of the bolt is just covered in crap that doesn't come off unless you have the scraper. I'm just wonder if this is going to have to get cleaned at some point, or is it something that I really shouldn't worry about?
Yes, I added a "shot" of CLP down the buffer tube, not a tonne,
Like we're talking a half second spray here not even. TDC there was a time when I bought a case of .223 federal and sat at the range and shot it all off in a couple hours. I had not added any more CLP at all, and the rifle functioned flawlessly. I had no stoppages or anything, I can only conclude that it was a well built rifle and my mags were very good as well. Point being though, I did notice alot of carbon build up on the end of the bolt itself when pulled out of the carrier. It was the kind of carbon that just won't come off no matter what cleaning agent you use.
I asked about a bolt scraper and found one online but have yet to buy it.
Would adding lube to the lube service port on the bolt carrier to lubricate the bolt every 100 rounds reduce fouling? Or does it just get so damn hot in there that it's impossible to reduce the fouling?
The rifle has about 2000 rounds through it and I've had no problems still, and the end of the bolt is just covered in crap that doesn't come off unless you have the scraper. I'm just wonder if this is going to have to get cleaned at some point, or is it something that I really shouldn't worry about?
