I’ve been shooting my 110BA for a few years and it has been shooting decent groups. I usually get about 5/8 – 3/4 MOA. Even though it was shooting pretty good I thought that there could be room for improvement. In my opinion the factory bedding job leaves a lot to be desired. It’s easy to tell that there is very minimal contact and the action is moving a lot under recoil.
Since there seems to be a lot of confusion on how to bed a 110BA I figured I would do a little write up. Here goes. For my bedding jobs I like to use Devcon. It seems to be a good product and it is easy to get from most industrial supply places.
First I started by completely disassembling the gun. Once I had it apart it was easy to see the ware on the chassis and the action.
Next step I made a donut on the barrel with tape to help center the barrel in the barrel channel. I ended up having to make a block of Styrofoam to go under the donut to hold it at the right elevation.
Then I took the die-grinder to the bedding area. Because of how the bedding system works you don’t have to remove material in most places, all you have to do is remove the finish and give the aluminum a rough texture. Remember after you have removed the finish don’t touch the raw aluminum with your hand or any other oily things.
Now you do want to remove about 1/16” from a few places. Remove material from anywhere that the action was touching. So along the side “rails” and along the raised part at the bottom of the chassis. I left some material around the action screw holes to set the elevation for when I bedded the action. To get in behind the “rails” I used a cut off wheel for the die grinder.
Now comes the tricky part about bedding the BA chassis. In some areas you will end up with about 1/2” of bedding material. Some people will do the bedding job in one fill, but I choose to do it in 2 fills. You have to make a dam to stop the flow of bedding material. I made a Styrofoam magazine to fill the mag well. Make the top of the foam mag even with the top of the raised spot in the middle of the chassis. Also make a dam to stop the material from flowing into the barrel channel and into where it’s milled out for the trigger.
At this point it’s just about ready for the first fill. If your worried that you got oil in the bedding area then you should use some kind of degreaser that doesn’t leave any residue. Cut a bunch of cereal box cardboard rectangles. They come in handy for pushing the Devcon into the tight places. Mix about 2.5oz of Devcon and fill the area behind the “rails” and in the bottom of the stock between the “rail” and the raised portion. If you use a little heat from a hair dryer it really helps the Devcon flow into the tight spaces. Let that sit in a worm area for about 12-24 hours.
After the first fill of Devcon has set, pull the barrel channel dam and trigger dam out but leave the mag well dam. Grind any Devcon that will be in the way. I also ground off anywhere there was just a thin layer of devcon so that the next fill had the aluminum to adhere to and roughed up the exposed devcon so the next fill will bond properly.
Now you have to make another dam for the barrel channel. This time it has to allow the barrel to fit into it. You also have to dam the trigger area so the action can fit. For the trigger area I used foam for most of the space and some non-hardening modeling clay to fill all the other spots.
Use masking tape to tape off anywhere that you don’t want Devcon to be. It could be a messy job and you never know where it will end up. Keep some methyl hydrate, paper towel and q-tips handy to clean any Devcon from areas that you don’t want it.
Once you have your chassis taped off and all the dams where they need to be set it aside and prep your barreled action. Remove the trigger. Remember to snap a few pics so you remember how it goes back together. Tape off everything above what sits in the chassis. Take your time and do a nice job on all the masking, it will make your life a lot easier later. I use good quality electrical tape to tape over the barrel nut. That way it is flexible and covers it nicely. Put one or 2 layers of masking tape around the bottom edge and sides of the recoil lug. Some people choose to tape off the front of the recoil lug too. For this bedding job I decided to try not taping the front. (So far it seems to be working fine) Cut a piece of foam to fit in the mag well on the action. Now use modeling clay to fill all the places on the action that you don’t want Devcon to end up. When you fill in around the mag well be careful to make a nice clean, smooth look that’s even on both side. It will affect what the finished bedding job looks like. Get some threaded rod and cut 3” pieces for each action screw. I slightly pointed the end of them and wrapped them in masking tape so they were closer to the diameter of the hole in the chassis.
Now is the most important step! Use Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent on your action. Take your time and use it to polish the surface. If you don’t rub it until its smooth all the bumps will show in your bedding job. Don’t be too shy with the shoe polish. Make sure you do a good job on the recoil lug.
Now mix what you figure will be enough Devcon to bed the action. 6-8oz should be enough but its cheap and you don’t want to end up with to little and have to do it a second time. Fill the area where the action will sit and use a helper with a hair dryer to keep it warm, it makes life a lot easier when pushing the action into the chassis. What I do is have a bunch of cereal box cardboard squares cut. That way when you push the action down you can scrape off the excess and throw it away. It makes life easy. Just push it down slowly while scraping the excess off. Once you have the action down as far as it will go, keep that pressure on. If you let any pressure off you run the risk of getting air bubbles in your bedding job.
I like to use strips of bicycle inner tube to hold the action in place while the bedding is curing. Start in the middle of the strip and wrap in opposite directions around the action and chassis. You want a nice even pressure down on the action. Once you have a few wraps tie it off and tape over the knot to make sure it stays tight.
Leave it in a warm place for 24 hours and it will be done curing and ready to take out. Getting the action out of the chassis will be tricky. First remove both of the threaded rods that were used to align the action. Then hold the stock and barrel upside down and hit the barrel with a piece of wood. Once you have it out all you have to do is pull out all your modeling clay and dams then carefully file away the excess Devcon.
Since there seems to be a lot of confusion on how to bed a 110BA I figured I would do a little write up. Here goes. For my bedding jobs I like to use Devcon. It seems to be a good product and it is easy to get from most industrial supply places.
First I started by completely disassembling the gun. Once I had it apart it was easy to see the ware on the chassis and the action.
Next step I made a donut on the barrel with tape to help center the barrel in the barrel channel. I ended up having to make a block of Styrofoam to go under the donut to hold it at the right elevation.
Then I took the die-grinder to the bedding area. Because of how the bedding system works you don’t have to remove material in most places, all you have to do is remove the finish and give the aluminum a rough texture. Remember after you have removed the finish don’t touch the raw aluminum with your hand or any other oily things.
Now you do want to remove about 1/16” from a few places. Remove material from anywhere that the action was touching. So along the side “rails” and along the raised part at the bottom of the chassis. I left some material around the action screw holes to set the elevation for when I bedded the action. To get in behind the “rails” I used a cut off wheel for the die grinder.
Now comes the tricky part about bedding the BA chassis. In some areas you will end up with about 1/2” of bedding material. Some people will do the bedding job in one fill, but I choose to do it in 2 fills. You have to make a dam to stop the flow of bedding material. I made a Styrofoam magazine to fill the mag well. Make the top of the foam mag even with the top of the raised spot in the middle of the chassis. Also make a dam to stop the material from flowing into the barrel channel and into where it’s milled out for the trigger.
At this point it’s just about ready for the first fill. If your worried that you got oil in the bedding area then you should use some kind of degreaser that doesn’t leave any residue. Cut a bunch of cereal box cardboard rectangles. They come in handy for pushing the Devcon into the tight places. Mix about 2.5oz of Devcon and fill the area behind the “rails” and in the bottom of the stock between the “rail” and the raised portion. If you use a little heat from a hair dryer it really helps the Devcon flow into the tight spaces. Let that sit in a worm area for about 12-24 hours.
After the first fill of Devcon has set, pull the barrel channel dam and trigger dam out but leave the mag well dam. Grind any Devcon that will be in the way. I also ground off anywhere there was just a thin layer of devcon so that the next fill had the aluminum to adhere to and roughed up the exposed devcon so the next fill will bond properly.
Now you have to make another dam for the barrel channel. This time it has to allow the barrel to fit into it. You also have to dam the trigger area so the action can fit. For the trigger area I used foam for most of the space and some non-hardening modeling clay to fill all the other spots.
Use masking tape to tape off anywhere that you don’t want Devcon to be. It could be a messy job and you never know where it will end up. Keep some methyl hydrate, paper towel and q-tips handy to clean any Devcon from areas that you don’t want it.
Once you have your chassis taped off and all the dams where they need to be set it aside and prep your barreled action. Remove the trigger. Remember to snap a few pics so you remember how it goes back together. Tape off everything above what sits in the chassis. Take your time and do a nice job on all the masking, it will make your life a lot easier later. I use good quality electrical tape to tape over the barrel nut. That way it is flexible and covers it nicely. Put one or 2 layers of masking tape around the bottom edge and sides of the recoil lug. Some people choose to tape off the front of the recoil lug too. For this bedding job I decided to try not taping the front. (So far it seems to be working fine) Cut a piece of foam to fit in the mag well on the action. Now use modeling clay to fill all the places on the action that you don’t want Devcon to end up. When you fill in around the mag well be careful to make a nice clean, smooth look that’s even on both side. It will affect what the finished bedding job looks like. Get some threaded rod and cut 3” pieces for each action screw. I slightly pointed the end of them and wrapped them in masking tape so they were closer to the diameter of the hole in the chassis.
Now is the most important step! Use Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent on your action. Take your time and use it to polish the surface. If you don’t rub it until its smooth all the bumps will show in your bedding job. Don’t be too shy with the shoe polish. Make sure you do a good job on the recoil lug.
Now mix what you figure will be enough Devcon to bed the action. 6-8oz should be enough but its cheap and you don’t want to end up with to little and have to do it a second time. Fill the area where the action will sit and use a helper with a hair dryer to keep it warm, it makes life a lot easier when pushing the action into the chassis. What I do is have a bunch of cereal box cardboard squares cut. That way when you push the action down you can scrape off the excess and throw it away. It makes life easy. Just push it down slowly while scraping the excess off. Once you have the action down as far as it will go, keep that pressure on. If you let any pressure off you run the risk of getting air bubbles in your bedding job.
I like to use strips of bicycle inner tube to hold the action in place while the bedding is curing. Start in the middle of the strip and wrap in opposite directions around the action and chassis. You want a nice even pressure down on the action. Once you have a few wraps tie it off and tape over the knot to make sure it stays tight.
Leave it in a warm place for 24 hours and it will be done curing and ready to take out. Getting the action out of the chassis will be tricky. First remove both of the threaded rods that were used to align the action. Then hold the stock and barrel upside down and hit the barrel with a piece of wood. Once you have it out all you have to do is pull out all your modeling clay and dams then carefully file away the excess Devcon.
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