How to get into reloading
- Thread starter SigSavage
- Start date
Yes that kit!
I used it to make over 1400 reloads, majority of it less than 3/4 MOA from a factory rifle! I use the lee 4 die set as well. I had also bought a ss tumbler at the same time (cost twice as much as the kit).
To date i've upgraded the powder thrower and scale (RCBS chargemaster 1500) which was also 3x the kit. I'm still using the press, I think I have a set of redding competition die set on its way. Only upgrade im currently eyeing is a trimmer thinking about the WFT, and then neck turning and runout gauges etc. Oh and an electric annie!
I use reloading equipment from all different manufacturers. I did finally buy a little Lyman digital scale - works like a charm. My newer rifle press is a Lyman turret, I just forget the model. I used a Lyman Spar-T for nearly 40 years. I seemed to be able to struggle along with it. 
You will get all kinds of suggestions. I started with a Lee Loader kit, the kind that came in a little cardboard box. I loaded a good many 30-30 round with it. Sometimes I am tempted to heave everything except the digital scale into a slough and go back to the old "kitchen table" Lee Loader kits. I have a bit of a collection of them now, all the old cardboard box versions.
I can't help you much with the precision rifle needs for reloading, as I've never ventured into that field. I pour a lot of different bullets for my rifles and handguns, and use Lee molds exclusively.
Read up on the procedures. Don't be afraid to ask on here if something doesn't come clear. When I started, Al Gore hadn't invented the internet yet.
Have fun!
You will get all kinds of suggestions. I started with a Lee Loader kit, the kind that came in a little cardboard box. I loaded a good many 30-30 round with it. Sometimes I am tempted to heave everything except the digital scale into a slough and go back to the old "kitchen table" Lee Loader kits. I have a bit of a collection of them now, all the old cardboard box versions.
I can't help you much with the precision rifle needs for reloading, as I've never ventured into that field. I pour a lot of different bullets for my rifles and handguns, and use Lee molds exclusively.
Read up on the procedures. Don't be afraid to ask on here if something doesn't come clear. When I started, Al Gore hadn't invented the internet yet.
Have fun!
If you are like me, a cheap S.O.B, you could surf the interweb and also ask your local store to keep an eye on used stuff that people might bring in. I waited about a year and filled my time tinkering with inexpensive guns until something popped up. I ended up picking up a box of used reloading stuff and 2 reloading books from a guy who walked into the local store for $25 dollars. The store owner did not bother looking in the box because it was dirty and falling apart and his shop only sold new equipment so it was no use to him so he called me up and asked if I wanted it. All I added were primers ($4) and powder ($32) and I was reloading (brass I already had). A progressive loader showed up at the other gun store I frequent but I was stupid and passed up a $50 deal.
you have to buy a pilot guide for the cutter and shell holder for the lock stud. They are like 8$ per set.
OK I just ordered the Lee Breechlock Challenger loading kit fom Wholesale sports. I also got the Lyman Accutrimmer and the outside neck turner accessory for it, as well as a set of Lyman calipers. I didnt get a digital scale because i feel the one that comes with it should serve my low volume needs. I had to order a couple of trimmer pilots though for my 40S&W and 6.5mm from Lyman in the States, but with shipping it only set me back $20. So with tax all this cost me about $350, which was right in my desired budget range.
The neck turner comes with a pack of 6 mandrels, but none of them look to be the correct size for what i will be loading. Not sure what to do about that, but I have plenty of time to figure that out before the time comes.
Thanks for all your guys' helpful advice. I will have many more questions later
The neck turner comes with a pack of 6 mandrels, but none of them look to be the correct size for what i will be loading. Not sure what to do about that, but I have plenty of time to figure that out before the time comes.
Thanks for all your guys' helpful advice. I will have many more questions later
Now start hoarding powder, primers, bullets and brass!
I know I did... I have like 22 pounds of powder sitting to my left, 1000 primers to my right, 400 bullets under my foot and 200 cases on the table. Its seriously another addiction.
I know I did... I have like 22 pounds of powder sitting to my left, 1000 primers to my right, 400 bullets under my foot and 200 cases on the table. Its seriously another addiction.
You are way short on primers, projectiles and brass lol.
When you start filling the 60 litre totes with primers, have several 20 litre pails of random brass, and your shelf collapses from the weight of bullets, you're getting close to hoarding supplies. Haha
In my defense, I started reloading in September..... I've got a pretty steady supply of projectiles, primers and brass so I'm not too worried about getting more. Unlike the damn powders! I finally was able to get a 8 lb jug of varget last month, last weekend I was able to pick up xbr 8208 as well.
Started with the following - still using it - and it gives me better accuracy than factory ammo:
- Analog caliper (digital caliper is good too, but then batteries are needed)
- Lee powder dippers and beam/balance scale (digital scale is good too, but then batteries are needed)
- Classic Lee Loader (neck size only so good for case life)
- 250 gram wooden homemade hardwood mallet
All in - about $170,- with the analog caliper being the most expensive tool.
- Analog caliper (digital caliper is good too, but then batteries are needed)
- Lee powder dippers and beam/balance scale (digital scale is good too, but then batteries are needed)
- Classic Lee Loader (neck size only so good for case life)
- 250 gram wooden homemade hardwood mallet
All in - about $170,- with the analog caliper being the most expensive tool.
Don't forget the dies.
OK I just ordered the Lee Breechlock Challenger loading kit fom Wholesale sports. I also got the Lyman Accutrimmer and the outside neck turner accessory for it, as well as a set of Lyman calipers. I didnt get a digital scale because i feel the one that comes with it should serve my low volume needs. I had to order a couple of trimmer pilots though for my 40S&W and 6.5mm from Lyman in the States, but with shipping it only set me back $20. So with tax all this cost me about $350, which was right in my desired budget range.
The neck turner comes with a pack of 6 mandrels, but none of them look to be the correct size for what i will be loading. Not sure what to do about that, but I have plenty of time to figure that out before the time comes.
Thanks for all your guys' helpful advice. I will have many more questions later
It good that you got a neck turner, but I wouldn't worry about that right away, unless you have a tight neck chamber. I would focus on the basics first. The lee safety scale will do you good, just make sure you calibrate it, I check mine every time. One other thing it would look into upgrading is the chamfer tool. The lee one works, but not very well. If you want the best, get a k&m. You might want to get some imperial sizing wax also, if you're going to be expanding necks and turning them.
Have you decided on dies?
Have you decided on dies?
Your Lee kit will come with the Lee manual. Read it (the first 100 or so pages) & everything else you can get your hands on, and don't be afraid to ask questions here. There are some VERY experienced reloaders here who are EXTREMELY generous with their time, providing advice and information to new and inexperienced reloaders!
FYI - this outstanding CGN'er has a number of reloading resources in PDF format, that he will email to you at NO cost:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...-Lyman-Cartridges-of-the-World?highlight=book
FYI - this outstanding CGN'er has a number of reloading resources in PDF format, that he will email to you at NO cost:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...-Lyman-Cartridges-of-the-World?highlight=book
The rifle I am looking at will come with some bullets, brass and dies, so I'm good there.
Something I cannot wrap my head around though is the use of these comparators. It was recommended I get one but I'm not sure what kind I should get. I also cannot see the need for them if I have calipers. Aren't they just for measuring OAL? When I look at desctriptions of them, some go on calipers and some are rods you put into your rifle chamber. The Sinclair ones that go in the rifle chamber make sense to me to determine your very first OAL, but then after that why are they used? Your next loads should just be measured with your calipers, no? The Hornady Lock n Load ones make no sense to me at all. I just cannot picture in my mind how they are used. Then the ones that attach to the calipers- I don't see how they work to tell you OAL. They just seem to tell you bullet length. But if you use the same bullets all the time, why would you need to know that?
What you use the comparators for is measuring to the Ogive. Which is almost impossible without a proper set of comparators. You don't measure from casehead to end for comparator use. You measure from case end to the ogive. The part that starts to engage the rifling. Each bullets tip can be out by upto 0.020" compared to the next one. The only "same" reading would come from the ogive, as the tips are 0.020" +/-.
This. The lee kit is an awesome bargain and guaranteed for life I understand.
What you use the comparators for is measuring to the Ogive. Which is almost impossible without a proper set of comparators. You don't measure from casehead to end for comparator use. You measure from case end to the ogive. The part that starts to engage the rifling. Each bullets tip can be out by upto 0.020" compared to the next one. The only "same" reading would come from the ogive, as the tips are 0.020" +/-.
Lightbulb just went off. So to ensure that your loaded rounds are all optimum length, you measure the distance from the base of the case to the spot where the bullet fits snugly into the hole of the adapter on the caliper (which will be at your ogive), rather than just the OAL of the round? So the tools I'm looking at are not a this *or* that, it's a "use the in-chamber tool to determine optimum OAL of the round, then put the finished, loaded round into the caliper adapter to find your optimum base to ogive distance. Then use this measurement for follow-up loaded rounds to make sure they are the optimal length, taking bullet length deviation that is inherent to their manufacture out of the equation"? so you actually are looking for a base to ogive length rather than an OAL to achieve maximum accuracy?
