How To - Refinish a Russian SKS Laminate Stock - Picture Heavy !!!!!

Ftaview

CGN frequent flyer
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
7   0   0
Refinish of a Russian SKS Laminate Stock

First a few pictures of the rifle disassembled, and how it looked the day I picked it up.

The items I used for the removal of the old finish, this included the furniture stripper in a spray can, blue latex
gloves, rags, steel wool #0000, and a green brilo pad

The stock getting ready to be stripped

Stock sprayed with the furniture stripper, almost an instant reaction, as you can see the bubbling of the old finish,
I left this on for less than the 5 minutes as recommended, since I did not know how strong the solution was, as it
turned out, I had to apply once more to remove the rest of the old finish, and was left with a clean stock.

Stock was sanded next with a few grades of paper, medium, fine, and rubbed with the green brilo pad, or use some
steel wool just to get things smooth, I was not after removing all dings and scratches, I wanted to preserve some of
the handling marks, after all it is old....

Here comes the stain, just used my hands to apply (gloves on) rubbed it into the stock, and after a bit, used the rag
to wipe it down. I let the stock dry overnight, and the next day used some very fine sandpaper, and then the steel
wool #0000 to rub the stock down and get it smooth, wiped down with a clean rag, and applied a second coat of
stain, waited a bit, and again wiped of the excess off with a rag, liked the color left, and hung the stock to dry
overnight again.

once again the next day, the stock was rubbed down with now just the steel wool #0000, until I had the whole
surface nice and smooth to the touch, and it felt good in my hands, it was now ready for its first coat of Varathane
Crystal Clear Waterborne Diamond Wood Finish in a Gloss finish, this was in spray can.

Hung the stock, and sprayed a light coat of varathane to start, waited about 4 hours, (it was try to the touch) and
took the stock and rubbed it down with the steel wool #0000, to give it a dull finish and smooth out any runs or
bubbles and or any imperfections, once this was done, a second coat of varathane was applied, and it was left to
dry overnight.

Next day the stock was rubbed down with the steel wool #0000, just to make sure all was smooth, and a 3rd coat of
Varathane was sprayed and left to dry overnight.


And this is the final result, after allowing it to dry, and putting it all back together. It's not as dark red as it was,
there is a hint of redness to the stock, maybe I rubbed off too much stain, but I was only after getting the stock
smooth to the touch, and not after a particular shade of red, once this finish gets dinged up, scratched up, abused, it
can be stripped down, and the whole process can start over again, I might look for a darker stain, or just leave
more on, and not rub so much off.

Overall I am pleased with the results (the pictures are not the best, I am no photographer) and so the lighting
might be off, or what not, but I think you can get a general idea of what to expect, it was fun, and looking forward
to doing it again when the time comes




Thanks to all the help and support from the many members here on the site, your contribution allowed me to take on this project.

P1030608.jpg


P1030628.jpg


P1030629.jpg


P1030633.jpg


P1030642.jpg


P1030647.jpg


P1030648.jpg


P1030652.jpg


P1030656.jpg


P1030659.jpg


P1030661.jpg


P1030673.jpg


P1030679.jpg


P1030695.jpg


P1030698.jpg


P1030699.jpg


P1030703.jpg


P1030705.jpg


P1030706.jpg


P1030717.jpg


P1030718.jpg


P1030719.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice job, Bro. I just got done stripping my lammy 1950 Tula and refinished it with Minwax Red Chestnut stain and TruOil. I used various grades of sandpaper and steelwool to get that damned Shellac off, even Acetone wouldn't shift it. Wish I could post pics, but for some reason, this site won't let me...?:( :confused:
 
Thanks guys....hopefully it will help out some of the guys, that want to do this

I only did it because, I was not happy with the color, and the rough finish it had, out of the box.

That paint stripper I used was excellent....(Thanks Satain, I hope I got it right...)
 
Looks good.

Did you ever consider just putting a clear coat on it after you stripped it?

Maybe it's just me but I like to look of the "naked" laminate.

P1030648.jpg
 
I thought about it, but wanted back that reddish tinge, after some wear and tear, I might strip it down again and go with just the natural finish, and give it a clear coat and see how she looks, but I would probably then go with a matte finish, and not a gloss...
 
I love how the natural finish looks. Is there any way to get a finish that isn't lacquered or shiny?

you would have to seal the wood/laminate with something, I would imagine it's not a good idea to leave it exposed, unless something like Tru Oil is used, from my understanding this you rub on, and let dry, and your done. You can spray on a coat of varathane clear, and then using the steel wool 0000 rub it down to take out any shine, and this would seal the stock, and give you a matte finish.

take a look here

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4169671&postcount=5

it's a laminate stock with nothing but varathane sprayed on, and then rubbed down

this way the stock is protected, but not shiny...
 
I love how the natural finish looks. Is there any way to get a finish that isn't lacquered or shiny?

There are many wood finishes that will give you a matte finish. I don't recommend steel wooling a shiny finish as you're breaking the finish down and defeating the purpose. I'd also stay away from any oils as the gun will obviously be handled and will be against clothes.

I'd go with a cured (none water-based) urethane which holds up very well and doesn't yellow over time.
 
If you want a non gloss finish use boiled linseed oil. It will enhance the grain without making it shiny, and gives good protection as well. It was what the Brits used on the Lee Enfield rifle. If you take your time, apply only a small amount for each coat and really work it into the grain it will not come off in your hands or stain anything.
 
I just sanded mine down, and used a light, almost transparent stain. Similar results, I just did'nt use a clear coat, because I like the Matte finish look.

P1250015-1.jpg
 
Awesome - my SKS's jut got that much more valuable and collectible compared to these altered ones.

If I wanted something collectible it most certainly would not be an SKS, and definitely not the one I purchased for 200 bucks, it was purchased to shoot, and to be used, not sit in a box never to be seen.....plus it had rough areas, and all that happened was it was smoothed out, and stained, then sealed...

I'd hate to think how many times the one you have has gone through the same process, unless it's unused, unissued.....

Crap my SAKO is worth 10 times more than this Russian boom stick....hate to ask when any SKS is going to be worth 2 grand......especially mine, even if I didn't touch it....
 
Back
Top Bottom