That works.
How to Safely Discharge Primer
- Thread starter MOA_Shooter
- Start date
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Have you ever loaded .38 Specials with full wadcutters bullets over Bullseye? They work seated against the powder charge in a S&W auto without blowing it up. How can that be?
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(((Echo)))
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Old Man Land, AB
Just so you know, there's a couple different types of pullers.
The ones that actually grab the bullet and pull it out as you lower the case are the ones you're thinking about. Yeah, they probably wouldn't work in this case.
The other type is a kinetic puller. The base of the cartridge is held firm and the "hammer" is struck against a wooden block. The kinetic energy forces the bullet out of the case. A little more messy (not much) but easier to use and less $$$. The grabber types are caliber dependent, where as the kinetic ones are pretty much a one size fits most.
(E)
- Location
- Kingston, Ontario
I'm not trying to save anything just don't want to throw a "live" primer in the garbage.
Because you have a safe charge for that combination. Not so for a 9mm pushed in. Read the link that SandRoad and I provided.
It is a published load. This is different than shortening the OAL of a published load. The powder charge is limited to accommodate the short OAL.
Besides, in this 38 spl example, the powder occupies only 60% of remaining volume in the case. 
Edit: acrashb beat me to it this time.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Nevertheless, there is no air volume between the base of the bullet and the powder column, which you have claimed is an unsafe condition due to the initial pressure spike to overcome the mass of the bullet. The fact that the powder occupies less volume in the .38 than it does in the .40 makes the condition worse not better, and the mass of the 150 gr .38 wadcutter is similar to the mass of the 155 gr .40 bullet.
When I suggested firing the .40 round that was seated short, it was with the assumption that the bullet set back was minimal due to the powder volume taking up to 95% of the case volume. Under these circumstances there would be but a minimal increase in pressure.
Now that we have determined that it is not inherently dangerous to have the base of a bullet in contact with the powder charge in a small capacity cartridge, it is a simple matter to run a test to determine at what charge weight case head expansion becomes measurable, and see how that charge compares with the published maximum charge for a given combination of components.
When I suggested firing the .40 round that was seated short, it was with the assumption that the bullet set back was minimal due to the powder volume taking up to 95% of the case volume. Under these circumstances there would be but a minimal increase in pressure.
Now that we have determined that it is not inherently dangerous to have the base of a bullet in contact with the powder charge in a small capacity cartridge, it is a simple matter to run a test to determine at what charge weight case head expansion becomes measurable, and see how that charge compares with the published maximum charge for a given combination of components.
You have not read or understood the link that SandRoad and I have previously posted. Since you refuse to engage in thoughtful discussion, I'm out.
Note to others reading Boomer's posts: his advice may result in a blown-up gun and personal injury. Follow published loads including OALs.
All this talk about one case? Throw it out.
As for removing a live primer, this has been discussed dozens of times on CGN over the years. There are two camps:
- the soak it in oil or water then deprime it, or what I call the "IT"S DANGEROUS" gang; and
- the deprime it and get on with your life group.
I've deprimed over 100 live primers and never had one go off. I've primed 100's of rounds with a Lee Loader (the device you hold with your hand) and had two go off. It went "bang", but the house did not fall down with a mushroom cloud overhead.
Just deprime them, or if it makes you feel better and you don't mind cleaning up a bunch of oil, then soak it in WD-40 or water first.
BTW - I've actually tested the effectiveness of water and WD-40 (not an oil, but silicone) to kill primers. Soaked for 24 hours, then removed. Tried firing afterwards and after 24hrs, the primers were good again. It works, but only temporarily.
This post is a waste of time I know, but I had a few minutes to spare.
As for removing a live primer, this has been discussed dozens of times on CGN over the years. There are two camps:
- the soak it in oil or water then deprime it, or what I call the "IT"S DANGEROUS" gang; and
- the deprime it and get on with your life group.
I've deprimed over 100 live primers and never had one go off. I've primed 100's of rounds with a Lee Loader (the device you hold with your hand) and had two go off. It went "bang", but the house did not fall down with a mushroom cloud overhead.
Just deprime them, or if it makes you feel better and you don't mind cleaning up a bunch of oil, then soak it in WD-40 or water first.
BTW - I've actually tested the effectiveness of water and WD-40 (not an oil, but silicone) to kill primers. Soaked for 24 hours, then removed. Tried firing afterwards and after 24hrs, the primers were good again. It works, but only temporarily.
This post is a waste of time I know, but I had a few minutes to spare.
i can tell you that oil takes more then a few minutes. when i was making dummy rounds for my PAL kit, i drilled out a few pistol rounds, shook the powder out and left them sitting in a jar of oil over night. i took them to the range the next day to test and they still had some punch left in them. not enough to push the bullet completely out of the brass but enough to shift them that you could see about a 1/8" mark on them. now i let them sit for about a week.
- Location
- Kingston, Ontario
So, are you saying I'm being too paranoid and should just throw away a case that has a live primer still in it?
Apparently it is not a good idea to drill or saw through live ammo
I'd put some oil in first - easiest thing, and no surprises down the line for someone. Other than that, yes, toss it. No need to decap first.
So, are you saying I'm being too paranoid and should just throw away a case that has a live primer still in it?
Apparently it is not a good idea to drill or saw through live ammo
Why? it is brass so no sparks and it is a recommended way to make dummy rounds. i guess maybe you could eventually heat it up enough for the powder to go off but again it is bras which is soft so very little heat.
stormbringer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S.W. Ontario
Whem making dummy rounds I generally drill through a spent case.
Then I decap and resize.
Install bullet.
Fill primer pocket with melted plastic.
At no point would I suggest that someone Saw or Drill through a live round.
Then I decap and resize.
Install bullet.
Fill primer pocket with melted plastic.
At no point would I suggest that someone Saw or Drill through a live round.
- Location
- Kingston, Ontario
That's what I figured, but apparently these guys think otherwise.
