Husqvarna rifles

Oops! Rembo's right. Of course the M-94, M-96 and M-38 #### on closing and the M-98 and all later derived models on opening. I dunno that the M-98's are stronger in terms of the steel in them. Some clearly are not. Their greater safety margin is more a matter of design for deflecting and allowing expanding gas and burning powder to escape in the rare event of a case failure. It's not hard to find M-96's and M-38's rechambered for the higher intensity cartridges like 30/06 and others like 9.3x62 derived from them. But they're better off with smaller capacity cases like 6.5x55, 8x57 and 9.3x57 which operate at lower pressures. The 9.3x62 is better left to the M-98's, Husqvarna 1600's and upwards. I wish I knew where to get Husqvarna 1600 stocks but replacement stocks for M-98's are not hard to find.
 
The after WWII model, namely 640, used three different actions. I listed it all in a previous post, but fast, fast here what it is; the early 640 were based on a "commercial" M94 (bent handle, but "solid left side wall), just after, when they were available again, they used the FN made ""C-Type" M98, then, later the FN designed M98 "H-Type" action. All of them were available in 9.3X62, 8X57JS, 6.5X55, later made in some popular american calibers (only with the "H-type" M98).

The M94/M96/M38 (and the M92, M93 and M95) are basically the same action. Before the M98 all Mausers were ####-on-closing. The real difference between the three swedish-made Mausers were the handle, the M38 was actually a M94 Carbine (with the bent handle) with an intermediate barrel lenght (610mm vs 450mm for the M94 and 740mm for the M96 (straight handle)). There is also a variant, called M96/38 with straight handle and rebarreled to 410mm. Husqvarna made the M38 and M96/38 and some M96, too.
There was some special run made by Carl Gustav for target use (before the coming of the CG63) wich used the solid wall receiver, too (but they are very scarce).
As for the strenght of the M94/96/38, most experts agree that the small ring actions, before the M98 (some also say before the "upgrade" of the 8X57 from J to JS (and the 10 000 PSI pressure rise), in 1905, for wich Paul Mauser created the M98 in the Large Ring version) where not designed to handle high pressure rounds (wich is logical, the powders to provide higher pressures were not invented yet).
Good reading about it can be found in the Mauser Monhtly Magazine, read the Larry Ellis (Master Mauser Collector and Researcher) answer to the Rifle Magazine Editor's assumptions
http://www.frombearcreek.com/nonfiction/m_monthly/vol_2/ED8VOL2.pdf for the so-called expert opinion and then
http://www.frombearcreek.com/nonfiction/m_monthly/vol_2/ED9VOL2.pdf
for Ellis' answer point by point to the arguments of the Rifle Magazine Editor's.

While the M94/96/38 is not as strong as the M98 (especially in it's Large Ring form, with the addition of the post WWII commercial Brno M98 small rings), in it's solid wall form it can handle rounds up to 55 000 PSI range.

The 1640 is often referred as a cross-over between the M94 and the M98, because HVA did not have the rights to manufacture the M98 in it's pure form. So they decided to keep the small ring configuration and added a third locking lug to the bolt. This action is, anyways made of the best material (for the time) and can handle modern (post WWII) calibers, having a MAP up to 63 000 PSI.

The 1900 is a completely redisigned action, very close in design to the Tikka action.

Hope this helps.
 
So my 1600 just arrived at my house today in good overall shape. I unsqrewed the action and began to pull it away from the stock. The back of the action seemed kinda stuck, I am always careful when dealing with my rifles so with just a bit more pulling it came out, Along with a splinter sized piece of wood off the tang, left with an ugly gouge on the top!!

I am absolutely mortified with this cause I wanted to keep this rifle in good shape for years to come!! What should I do, this is something I do not want to keep. This is not my fault as I have taken apart several rifles in the same manor, I was gentle and very easy with it. Pics:

IMGP0061.jpg

IMGP0062.jpg
 
Ouch, that hurts! Should be able to glue the splinter back in though (?)

As to the ad that said
... reasonably accurate rifles
Click to expand...

Well, my mid 50's .30-06 shoots hand load 180 gr into a 3/4" group at 150 yds. I think that's more than "reasonably accurate". :)

RC
 
I had the same trouble with mine when I first took it apart it required some "coaxing"...

My stock did not splinter though...

Try giving Tradeex a call and see what they might be willing to do...
 
Use a good Epoxy glue and whipe out with Methyl Hydrate. The problem you will have is the clamping. You can make yourself a wood piece (cedar is good for such purpose) matching the top of the part you want to glue and use a sling type binder.
If done carefully, the crack line will almost dissapear.
Also, problems at the tang (cracks, wich can be like yours (horizontal split) or vertical (vertical split), all depends on the woodgrain. Do yourself a favour, when it will be repaired, relief the tang about 1/32" and make sure the action screws are always tight.
To avoid such things (let's suppose that the woodgrain is not already splitted - like an hair line), one can warm up the action/stock assembly with a airdryer so the oil build up can "melt" a bit, make the separration easier, especially on older Mausers having oiled stocks.
 
Looks like what happened to your stock is that the barrel end was pried up, the tang then wedged in under the stock line and then the front of the barreled action was pushed back down to attempt to lift the rear end up of the action. This is the only way a chip like that could have occurred. It is a must to evenly lift the action out of the stock in order to avoid what happened.

I always recommend to spend a couple extra bucks and have a good gunsmith do the bedding for you. Saves a lot of aggravation.

As I already mentionned to you, I will try to find you another stock from another gun and send it to you to help get this resolved.
 
Absolutely top notch service from Tradeex, it goes without saying I reccomend them to anyone thinking of a rifle of this quality!! Thanks Again

Ok, I am trying to disassemble the bolt for cleaning now. So I have the the back cocking sleeve and bolt sleeve turned and all the way to the bolt handle. I cant get it any further than past the bolt handle. It seems to be stuck and not moving any further than that. It is in the cocked position and will not go any further than the bolt handle base. ????
 
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I was offered a Husky in 22 Hornet.Dont know the model and have not seen it yet.Info I looked at does not show 22 Hornet as a chambering.Were these made in 22 Hornet and what approximate price are they?
 
Are you sure on the word "Husky?"
Husqvarna made rifles for many years and as far as I know they only made one model, in the 50s-60s, they called the Husky. When they made it, the Husky was only one model of their line. A lot of people seem confused on this.
 
The model "Husky" or H-5000 was also a Tradewinds exclusivity made out of the 1640, with Italian walnut (often dark) instead of french walnut (usually clear).
The Krico actions were the ones HVA used for .222 Rem. The model number was the 2000 series (2002 was a varmint rifle).

As per Woodbeef stated, Tradewinds also continued their Husky line with the Krico rifles after their HVA distribution contract ended.
 
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Hi all,

I am an experienced firearms user growing up in BC, Canada. I have just received my PAL and am looking for my first hunting rifle. I am have pretty much settled on .30-06 and am considering a Husqvarna 1600. I was directed to this firearm by posts on these very boards and from my research so far (this thread and other websites) the Husqvarna 1600 seems like a very fine firearm. I am trying to engage Trade Ex. in talks about acquiring one but I was curious if anyone could provide more details about dealing with them and this firearm. Specifically I have these questions:

- Would this be a good starter rifle in .30-06 caliber?

- How does it stack up to "out of the box" rifles around the same price. Eg: Remmy 770, Savage 116FXP3, Stevens 200 etc...?

- What would be the most common scope one would purchase to go with this rifle?

I am interested in shooting, but, I have never hunted before. I do not want to over invest in an expensive hunting rifle that I might not use if I determine hunting isn't for me. Price is also a factor and the Husqvarna 1600 seems to be a good price point and quality.

I appreciate any feedback people can provide.

Thanks!
 
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Maw, had I to do over again, I would have kept my Husky 1100 super grade in a heart beat. It was a 30-06.

Only downside is they can kick like a mule but that is what a bakelite pad is for. Use a sand bag or get a slip on pad so you don't get a flinch. Scope, I'd go 2-7 or 2.5-8 Leupold if you want "new" optics. For a period mount a Kahles, Pecar or even a nice Weaver would suit one nicely.

Weaver has bases and rings for cheap. They are ugly but I've never had a set fail. Aside from maybe putting a trigger in and getting the action bedded (mandatory IMO) you should be set. The three I have had were never fussy on what they were fed. Stuff dies when you point a Husky at it.

*EDIT* Don't EVER put the Husky in the same class or even suggest it with the Remingtons or Savages. That is a hanging offence. lol
 
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Noel thank you for the reply.

Sorry I had to put my neck out there as the "noobie" and mention the out of box packages. I mean, that is what the manufacturers want people like me to buy! Lesson learned. :)

I do have a bit of shooting experience. Firing almost all of the .30 calibers, 12ga shotguns etc... I am not too worried about the kick, but like you said I don't want to develop a flinch. I will probably get something to make it easier. Especially while I am hunting and those shots count.

You and all of the previous posts speak highly of these 50-60 year old firearms and for me, the noobie it might be the right rifle to start out with.
 
Just giving you a hard time, no worries.

Best part of all is the price for these rifles. They are affordable and if you end up wanting something else, you can sell it for the same money unless you have a wreck.

BTW, all of the outfits make rings and bases for these rifles. They *should* have the same hole spacings but front to back there are three different hieghts you may encounter depending on which model you get. Get one with a sound stock and a great bore and you will be sure to have many great memories with that rifle.
 
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