I ruined my S&W model 19
- Thread starter JohnnyMac
- Start date
Don't give up on this yet, and don't try to hammer them out,
all that does is wedge them tighter.
I did repair years ago on this same thing.
get, make a slde hammer that will go in the bore with a coarse
screw on the end, carefully drill out about a inch deep and run in the screw
and pull or slide hammer that first one out ( hopfully) and the drill
the next one ,and so on till you get them all out.
Worked for me ,
the only trouble was is that the fellow also had a bullet in the forcing
cone and could not get the cylinder opened, so he took a piece
of wood and a hammer and drove the cylinder out.
Do I need to say what that does to a 1st year production 6" python?
all that does is wedge them tighter.
I did repair years ago on this same thing.
get, make a slde hammer that will go in the bore with a coarse
screw on the end, carefully drill out about a inch deep and run in the screw
and pull or slide hammer that first one out ( hopfully) and the drill
the next one ,and so on till you get them all out.
Worked for me ,
the only trouble was is that the fellow also had a bullet in the forcing
cone and could not get the cylinder opened, so he took a piece
of wood and a hammer and drove the cylinder out.
Do I need to say what that does to a 1st year production 6" python?
Don't give up on this yet, and don't try to hammer them out,
all that does is wedge them tighter.
I did repair years ago on this same thing.
get, make a slde hammer that will go in the bore with a coarse
screw on the end, carefully drill out about a inch deep and run in the screw
and pull or slide hammer that first one out ( hopfully) and the drill
the next one ,and so on till you get them all out.
Worked for me ,
the only trouble was is that the fellow also had a bullet in the forcing
cone and could not get the cylinder opened, so he took a piece
of wood and a hammer and drove the cylinder out.
Do I need to say what that does to a 1st year production 6" python?
I had sold him that colt 3 days earlier and he thought warrenty should cover the repairs
all that does is wedge them tighter.
I did repair years ago on this same thing.
get, make a slde hammer that will go in the bore with a coarse
screw on the end, carefully drill out about a inch deep and run in the screw
and pull or slide hammer that first one out ( hopfully) and the drill
the next one ,and so on till you get them all out.
Worked for me ,
the only trouble was is that the fellow also had a bullet in the forcing
cone and could not get the cylinder opened, so he took a piece
of wood and a hammer and drove the cylinder out.
Do I need to say what that does to a 1st year production 6" python?
I had sold him that colt 3 days earlier and he thought warrenty should cover the repairs
- Location
- Southeastern Michigan
JohnnyMac, anyone that teases you about the squib load hasn't shot or reloaded enough to pass judgment on you. These sort of things just happen if you shoot enough or reload enough rounds. I blew the barrel on my TZ75 while I was learning to reload 9mm. What happens is you are firing fast and you do not feel the squib, next thing the handgun jams. That is my story and I am sticking with it. Regards, Richard
It all else fails send it to Rodger Kotanko from Dark International. He mentioned that he removed 5 bullets from revolver barrel before.
He was saying that as he was tapping out one squib from my 686. My friend loaded some .38 ammo for me I stopped after one lodged itself in the barrel
He was saying that as he was tapping out one squib from my 686. My friend loaded some .38 ammo for me
I stopped after one lodged itself in the barrel You are correct they don't. You can use a third part barrel on a Model 19 if you have a good gunsmith, but there ain't no more new Model 19 barrels. I've already been down that path.
As long as the barrel isn't bulged it is worth while saving. Its possible to clear the bullets, they are just lead. If nothing else, heat a small rod and shove it up the barrel to melt the buggers out. No different than soldering. Take a bit of scrubbing to get the residue out but you will get there.
Big JD-From the hills
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan.
I would be interested in buying this gun, Pm sent! I have a few ideas I would try, probably my first would be spin up a brass pilot(guide/sleve for the bit), and use an annealed drill bit.
"...remove the bullets using a dowel..." Barrel in padded vise and tap 'em out with a 1/4" brass rod and a plastic mallet. Then look into the barrel. Any dark rings? If not, it's fine. Load up some ammo using a 148 grain WC and 2.7 grains of Bullseye.
Ohh Jebus buddy sorry to hear that.. Any pics
Man, this is a scary story to hear!
I just got my S&W model 19-5 about 2 weeks ago, and I'm hoping to take it to the range as soon as the road is no longer a mud pit. I guess I'll just have to watch out for this.
I just got my S&W model 19-5 about 2 weeks ago, and I'm hoping to take it to the range as soon as the road is no longer a mud pit. I guess I'll just have to watch out for this.
EDM sounds interesting but you'd need to find out which metal will "burn". The lead or the steel. From what I know about EDM it's related to a lot of stuff that isn't obvious at first. In this case you'd want to talk to an EDM guy and find out or set up a test to ensure that the lead will be burned away at all. With the two dissimilar metals the EDM may not even be useable.
But if it was then it would be a great way to save the barrel.
But if it was then it would be a great way to save the barrel.
Pff... whatever... I had this happen too, where approx 12 .38 spl bullets jammed up in the barrel on my .357 S&W revolver.
So, I loaded up a .357 hot load and fired it off... obstruction cleared no problem and gun is as good as new again (well, almost)! I learned that trick on YouTube. Alternatively, I could've opened a couple of .38 bullets with a pair of pliers and put all the powder into one of them, then reseal it to create what is commonly called a 'super barrel cleaning bullet' (as I hear that the more torque it has to move the obstruction, the better... so you better top off that sob with as much powder as you can get, and you may want to put a few drops of gasoline in there as well for better ignition, just like on them big block Chevy's).
Here's my gun after the treatment... good as new, just need a little welding and some mighty-putty bodywork. But my cousin Bubba-Joe will fix'er up tomorrow for cheap, as he owns the canadian tire welding thing and some sand-paper. I don't, all I have is a hammer, three screws and half a screwdriver in my tool box. I took the picture with some guy's camera :
P.S. It's a joke... all of it. Do not attempt, lol!
So, I loaded up a .357 hot load and fired it off... obstruction cleared no problem and gun is as good as new again (well, almost)! I learned that trick on YouTube. Alternatively, I could've opened a couple of .38 bullets with a pair of pliers and put all the powder into one of them, then reseal it to create what is commonly called a 'super barrel cleaning bullet' (as I hear that the more torque it has to move the obstruction, the better... so you better top off that sob with as much powder as you can get, and you may want to put a few drops of gasoline in there as well for better ignition, just like on them big block Chevy's).
Here's my gun after the treatment... good as new, just need a little welding and some mighty-putty bodywork. But my cousin Bubba-Joe will fix'er up tomorrow for cheap, as he owns the canadian tire welding thing and some sand-paper. I don't, all I have is a hammer, three screws and half a screwdriver in my tool box. I took the picture with some guy's camera :
P.S. It's a joke... all of it. Do not attempt, lol!
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