I want to make a SKS as accurate as I can get it

joe1791

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Ive wanted a semi auto rifle for a long time Preferably a m1 but spending that much on a caliber i already have a good accurate rifle for isnt going to happen.
And I really want to actually build something and ive shot quite a few SKS's with the cheap ammo(ill will not be using any unless wasting ammo at the range).
Ive seen one good one but most times you tend to make targets look as if you fired 12g buck shot at them even off sand bags. Thats understandable these are cheap MASS produced rifles that are built to be beaten hard and handled by people who probably have no idea there is a cleaning kit in there.

I know damn well this will never come close to my 30-06 Model 71 and i dont expect that but i want to get it as good as possible including what kind of SKS i start with . So far from what i have read im looking for one with a forged action and threaded chrome barrel. Then i should get a yugo trigger group and have it shaved and polished and the barrel recrowned.
Then i get to the parts that i haven't looked into as much since i plan on using a scope (hopefully) i want to convert my mag to a detachable 5 shot and do the ejection port mod. Im a little worried those could be a step in the wrong direction.

As far as scope mounts i have no idea what to get other than i want the scope in the proper position above the bolt. i will also be extending the original stock with a 2" rubber pad (im tall i couldn't care about recoil) Ill just grind a chunk of very hard rubber to match or make the extention out of maple and find out if green paint sticks to cosmolien soaked wood.

The scope id like to use is a good quailty 4 or 5x fixed power nothing fancy it just has to be good enough to handle a few days a year at the range and possibly very limited hunting use with out the stupid cross hairs breaking (tasco :mad:)

So what do you guys think of the plan and is there a decent scope mount for these i have access to a mill if i really have to go that route
 
after reading what i just typed i realize the only thing i mentioned that has a chance at helping the accuracy is re crowning the barrel. The trigger and optics and extending the stock only help me. what else can be done
 
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Magwedge kwikrail gen2 or gen3 for a rail, bed the action in the stock, diy trigger job. That's about all I'd bother doing to the sks if it was me.

I like that exactly what i was looking for THX Edit: can i use a bolt instead of the pin so i can tighten it down or is it already realy tight on there
sks-gen-2-rail-1024x682.jpg
 
Bedding, trigger, crown, ammo. And understand it will never compete with accurate semi's like a properly built M1/M14 etc. A good example properly set up and fed good handloads should be able to turn in sub 2 moa groups with reasonable frequency.
 
if i bed the action should i be shaving back all the wood that comes in contact with the barrel as well

Not necessarily. Your question suggests that the barrel won't move if it is touching the wood. That isn't necessarily possible. All steel flexes and whips under recoil. The Chinese fence post lumber used is not nearly stable enough to qualify. Now, if you made a completely inert fibreglas or aluminum chassis, you'd be able to answer your own question.

The latest accuracy mods for the M14 type are to isolate the barrel and action AWAY from the stock. The most extreme option is to ignore the stock altogether, and connect the parts with a collar on the barrel. I'm simplifying, but the principle is the same.
 
onme guys here a while ago , turn is in a straight pull action , putting a 1919 blank barrel on his sks , he did a bedding , and his was shooting very nice in a single shot version
 
Non chrome barrel, trigger job, crown, get the wood stock as tight a fit as you can. If putting on a scope, MagWedge rail. Match ammo.
Everything else is a waste of money in my opinion.
 
Bedding, trigger, crown, ammo. And understand it will never compete with accurate semi's like a properly built M1/M14 etc. A good example properly set up and fed good handloads should be able to turn in sub 2 moa groups with reasonable frequency.

i understand completely if i get it to 2'' at a 100 id call her done for sure. Better than i could hope to shoot without a bench and bags
 
so im going to have a few of these to pick from when i go get the sks what markings am i looking for i dont want to pick up some cheap cast action rifle or used refurb slapped together in china with mixed parts
 
Non chrome barrel, trigger job, crown, get the wood stock as tight a fit as you can. If putting on a scope, MagWedge rail. Match ammo.
Everything else is a waste of money in my opinion.

Sounds about right to me. A super tight fitting stock helps immensely, I don't bother bedding if she's tight. DIY trigger job and replace stock springs with some wolf springs, trigger is good to go. Use decent ammo and your set.
 
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