I want to make a SKS as accurate as I can get it
- Thread starter joe1791
- Start date
Second this, other rail style are very hard to get working properly.
Mumbles Marble Mouth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Lower Mainland
Once you take away the semi auto function I don't consider it an SKS anymore. Its now just a KS.
Joe: Why not use an SVT as the basis for an accurate semi-auto with cheap available ammo. While many of the refurbs have issues (like poor stock fit, etc) at the end of the day you would have a rifle with much better longer range potential that can definitely do 1.5 inch groups at 100yds. I've used one at 440 yards- iron sights- on a proper range with good results (as in beating a Garand, several Lee Enfields and others on that day). The rifle was my $200 Lever arms Christmas special. For the effort you'd put in with either rifle, I suspect the much better ballistics of 7.62 x 54 would reward you.
milsurpo
milsurpo
I second that. Not to mention svt's are easily double sometimes triple the price of an Sks nowadays.
There have been ample posts showing SVT accuracy potential. Of the many I've owned I've had the odd one that couldn't be made to shoot but, as has been said, quality of the refurbs is all over the place. I have an original (refurbed) '41 sniper that is easily as accurate as my No. 4 T with scope. So I've had decent results with them and still haven't shot my, as new, '43 Bulgarian refurb. The accuracy "envelopes" of SVT/ SKS probably do overlap do to the variable quality of both types as purchased now but little doubt the SVT has more potential at 100 yds and way, way more at longer ranges.
milsurpo
Care to elaborate why?
At the back, the hole in the mount on both sides where the pins slips through are almost always loose (Ive had both magwedge & wartak rails) meaning every time you tighten the mount back down, there is the potential of it sitting not exactly in the place it previously was. Plus too if the bolts arnt tight enough, the vibrations will make the bolt slowly chew away at the mount. I switched out the bolts on both the rails I once owned to countersink bolts, which helped with the return to zero, but the still.... every time you clean your gun, you take out the pin, over and over again, over the years, the mount gets sloppier and sloppier.
Still, they arnt bad mounts, especially if you dont want to alter your SKS, and although they may not return to zero exactly every time, they get pretty close, like within 3"s ive observed.
If the will power is there, the drill tap mounts are superior for obvious reasons.
Tried all of that and twice. It's ok but not even close to perfect.
The only thing close I have going to very good is the Scout Industries 7.5" mount with a Leupold M8 EER optics.
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Nope. Not me. I have done some minor tweaks, but nothing more exciting than replacing the cover pin with a bolt, so my rear sight does not move.
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
What does slamfire have to do with a trigger job?
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
Ive wanted a semi auto rifle for a long time Preferably a m1 but spending that much on a caliber i already have a good accurate rifle for isnt going to happen.
And I really want to actually build something and ive shot quite a few SKS's with the cheap ammo(ill will not be using any unless wasting ammo at the range).
Ive seen one good one but most times you tend to make targets look as if you fired 12g buck shot at them even off sand bags. Thats understandable these are cheap MASS produced rifles that are built to be beaten hard and handled by people who probably have no idea there is a cleaning kit in there.
I know damn well this will never come close to my 30-06 Model 71 and i dont expect that but i want to get it as good as possible including what kind of SKS i start with . So far from what i have read im looking for one with a forged action and threaded chrome barrel. Then i should get a yugo trigger group and have it shaved and polished and the barrel recrowned.
Then i get to the parts that i haven't looked into as much since i plan on using a scope (hopefully) i want to convert my mag to a detachable 5 shot and do the ejection port mod. Im a little worried those could be a step in the wrong direction.
As far as scope mounts i have no idea what to get other than i want the scope in the proper position above the bolt. i will also be extending the original stock with a 2" rubber pad (im tall i couldn't care about recoil) Ill just grind a chunk of very hard rubber to match or make the extention out of maple and find out if green paint sticks to cosmolien soaked wood.
The scope id like to use is a good quailty 4 or 5x fixed power nothing fancy it just has to be good enough to handle a few days a year at the range and possibly very limited hunting use with out the stupid cross hairs breaking (tasco)
So what do you guys think of the plan and is there a decent scope mount for these i have access to a mill if i really have to go that route
Really? Why bother. Unless your reason is "just because". In a later post you said you'd be happy with a 2 inch group. Me too, but only if I didn't have to spend time and money on my SKS to do it. I've got three Russians that can usually do 3-4 inches, with surplus Czech ammo. I believe that I can get those down to 2 inches with good commercial or reloaded ammo.
6 years ago, we held a couple of SKS-only 200 meter, 20 shots, 8-inch (or was it 10 inches?) square steel gong shoots at our Club and quite a few managed hit it 8+ times out of 20. The first winner got 11 and the second got 14, IIRC. Totally stock SKS's were shot, except for a few that did their own trigger jobs. Surplus ammo all the way. Oh yeah, I remember now the first winner used a scope (we allowed it because he was an old guy with, we assumed, poor eyesight).
So I respectfully recommend shooting your SKS with good ammo first.
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