I want to make a SKS as accurate as I can get it

joe1791 said:
you cant get a 308 in a sks youd need to extend the reviser bolt and carrier and the mag then you would need a new barrel sks is .310 or .311 and if you got all that you then need a way to lock the bolt because it wont handle the load
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Actually, SKS does lock the bolt to the receiver (the bolt carrier has a wedge which tilts the bolt downwards when bolt is in battery). so this is not a problem

joe1791 said:
EDIT: all you get to keep is the trigger group sights and stock considering the gas system would need to be extended as well and those are the worst parts of a sks I would like the internet myth of the 308 sks to die
even if everyones ''freind'' seems to have one
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Not sure what do you mean by "extending the gas system"
 
that tiny ledge the bolt rides on will not handle any more than what its built for all that locks a sks bolt is the rear is pushed down into a small cut in the bottom of the reciver its dirt cheap to build but unfortunately not strong or good for a accurate rifle
also because of the extra 12mm you had to everything to fit 308 your bolt now has 24mm more to move so the rod in the rear sight block will need to be longer and the piston will need to push it farther

At that point you should be looking at a SVT-40 hell you can fire 308 in it stock (bring ram rod) it just wont eject
 
joe1791 said:
you cant get a 308 in a sks youd need to extend the reviser bolt and carrier and the mag then you would need a new barrel sks is .310 or .311 and if you got all that you then need a way to lock the bolt because it wont handle the load


EDIT: all you get to keep is the trigger group sights and stock considering the gas system would need to be extended as well and those are the worst parts of a sks I would like the internet myth of the 308 sks to die
even if everyones ''freind'' seems to have one
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That would definitely be interesting.... Running a 308... I was thinking more along the lines of re chambering back to 308 by 39 using a 7.62x39 case with a 308 bullet barrel not the 311 as it came.
 
Ah that makes sence that is definitely doable i was looking at some forum where some idiot wanted to convert his to 308 as in 7.62 x 51 and then claimed his freind had one sorry bout that

i wonder what would happen if a guy where to squeeze a surplus 311 round down one of those barrels it probably wouldnt be accurate or good for it but i bet that round would haul ass
I believe winchester used to make 7.62x39 in 308 but people #####ed and they changed it
 
joe1791 said:
Ah that makes sence that is definitely doable i was looking at some forum where some idiot wanted to convert his to 308 as in 7.62 x 51 and then claimed his freind had one sorry bout that

i wonder what would happen if a guy where to squeeze a surplus 311 round down one of those barrels it probably wouldnt be accurate or good for it but i bet that round would haul ass
I believe winchester used to make 7.62x39 in 308 but people #####ed and they changed it
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The plus about a 308 rebarrel job is the available 308 bullets....alot of different weights and shapes...thats the plus. A little field work to find the sweet ones and away we go. :)
 
joe1791 said:
that tiny ledge the bolt rides on will not handle any more than what its built for all that locks a sks bolt is the rear is pushed down into a small cut in the bottom of the reciver its dirt cheap to build but unfortunately not strong or good for a accurate rifle
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"that tiny ledge the bolt rides on" has nothing to do with the locking mechanism. It appears that you don't fully understand how the bolt locking is done in this rifle. This "small" cut in the bottom of the receiver is more than adequate to lock the bolt with the receiver's body and prevent it from being blown back by the recoil forces. Given the total mass and configuration of the machined bolt assembly + machined receiver the entire thing is not just strong, it is VERY strong. Accuracy is a totally different issue and should not be discussed in the same sentence.

joe1791 said:
its dirt cheap to build but unfortunately not strong or good for a accurate rifle also because of the extra 12mm you had to everything to fit 308 your bolt now has 24mm more to move so the rod in the rear sight block will need to be longer and the piston will need to push it farther
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Neither you appear to understand how the gas piston operates. The piston doesn't push the bolt all the way to the back. Rather it transfers to the bolt carrier a short but powerful impulse and the bolt assembly travels backwards by the forces of inertia.

For clarity, I am not suggesting that SKS is easily convertible to .308. Far from this. Just pointing out that you are wrong on the bolt's strength and the gas system.
 
I am aware of the short stroke gas piston system but i cant see it pushing that extra distance as is The bolts on these are super lose and my sks will drop the hammer when the bolt is not totaly lowered down considering there would only be 1/16th X 5/8th of metal to metal contact holding the bolt closed i dont believe that will hold back anymore than what it was built for Seriously look at a decent bolt action or rotating bolt semi and how much metal they got holding on
 
The same amount of material holds the tilting lock system of a SVT40 back.... And they fought a World War..., somethings seriously wrong with the locking system of ur SKS man.
 
I Think the bolt follower dissconector has been replaced with new and needs to be shaved where it contacts the bolt if i look thru the veiw hole the trigger bar is almost under the sear with the bolt closed they barley make contact if raise the bolt a bit they line up perfectly

25-2.jpg
 
joe1791 said:
I Think the bolt follower dissconector has been replaced with new and needs to be shaved where it contacts the bolt if i look thru the veiw hole the trigger bar is almost under the sear with the bolt closed they barley make contact if raise the bolt a bit they line up perfectly

25-2.jpg
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my advise to you is don't start "shaving" anything before you fully understand the purpose of each part and how they all function together.
 
ok, here is the sks operation in slow motion (I have also hidden certain parts to make it more relevant). Now, if you could legibly describe the issue?
 
i do understand the trigger group the trigger bar is above the contact on the sear when the bolt is not locked and pushed below if the bolt is unlocked while holding the trigger however im not messing with it untill i get a replacement

my problem is the trigger bar is to low when locked and in the correct spot half locked

Edit i mean the bolt is all the way down in the back when locked
 
why don't you try a trigger group from another sks and if it fixes the issue then simply replace it (Lever Arms normally has them in stock)
 
I just tryed that and it worked as it should so i fixed mine and it is now the same my bolt is fully locked before the hammer can be dropped i even removed both followers and as i thought mine was a bit longer
 
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