I want to weld a bent bolt on a M96 mauser

ben777lemay

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Hi guys I'm building a M96 Mauser sporter from few spare parts.

I have a good bolt on hand but I want to have a bent bolt.

So I need to cut the straight bold and replace ( weld ) with another...

I have 2 questions :

1- What kind of material I should use to make the new bolt handle ???

2- I bet the best way to weld it is with a TIG... But with what kind of rods, I mean grade...I can use ???

I'm sure I'm not the first canadian to modify a M96 bolt so any help appreciated ;)
 
My grinder skills are better than my welding skills :) I'd probably use a wet towel for a heatsink and gas mig to bubblegum it on. I'd probably use carbon steel wire, or whatever was already in the welder.
 
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If you have to ask, then you better take it to a Gunsmith. Welding bolts is not for Amateurs. You can easily change the structure and strength of the metal if you use too much heat. As a Certified Welder, I will give you that advice.

As mentioned, the safety of the Mauser Military rifles do not lend themselves to easy manipulation. You have to mount scopes very high, unless you use an aftermarket trigger and side safety.

Cost wise, you had better do a lot of the work yourself, and you will never get your money out of it. If you really want a sporting m/96 then you might consider selling the parts you have, and buying a good Swedish sporter from Trade Ex. You can get one for around the $250 mark, and they will have bolt handles already bent, drilled and tapped and possibly even side safeties if you look hard enogh.
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I made mine with a grade 5 bolt and welded with a mig
the extremely important thing to remember is if any heat get to the bolt lugs, your bolt body is scrap.

and dont bother too much to get the scope at a low position, later this winter I mant to make a higher base wit an ejection deflector to stop spent cases to hit the scope


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Well thx guys for the replys. Don't wory for the heat, I got a digital welding thermometer to keep things cool but the heat sink is a gr8 idea too... I'm not too worried by the heat since I will weld it with a TIG. But you are right to say heat can change the structure of the metal...

I don't want to buy another rifle, I have enough spare parts to make a complete rifle.

For the safety, I can buy a low swing 2 positions safety like a Buehler from Brownwells... Like the one my other swed mauser wear...

I already have a sporterized mauser, and the bolt is really well done, so I know this can be nicely done.

001-22.jpg


Look the Buehler safety is on the midde...

017-1.jpg


I made mine with a grade 5 bolt and welded with a mig
the extremely important thing to remember is if any heat get to the bolt lugs, your bolt body is scrap.

and dont bother too much to get the scope at a low position, later this winter I mant to make a higher base wit an ejection deflector to stop spent cases to hit the scope


Thx for this reply Dero, I think I will take a grade 5 bolt like u did... But what about the welding rod I should use ??? I bet carbon steel rod will make the job done since grade 5 bolt is carbon steel...

Can you show us the complete rifle, looks like a custom stock on your swedish mauser... I'm curious :p

BTW nice job with your bolt !!!

.
If you have to ask, then you better take it to a Gunsmith. Welding bolts is not for Amateurs. You can easily change the structure and strength of the metal if you use too much heat. As a Certified Welder, I will give you that advice.

As mentioned, the safety of the Mauser Military rifles do not lend themselves to easy manipulation. You have to mount scopes very high, unless you use an aftermarket trigger and side safety.

Cost wise, you had better do a lot of the work yourself, and you will never get your money out of it. If you really want a sporting m/96 then you might consider selling the parts you have, and buying a good Swedish sporter from Trade Ex. You can get one for around the $250 mark, and they will have bolt handles already bent, drilled and tapped and possibly even side safeties if you look hard enogh.
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I sent couples of things at different gunsmith and you know what ??? I can do better than most of them... Its sad to say !!! But I'm machinist for over a decade, I was foremen in a aircraft machine shop for couples of years, I know welding and heat threatents too and now I work in a Welding/Machining shop. Some of my friend have more than 30 years of experience in welding so I think any of my experienced colleagues have done much more weldings than most of the gunsmiths. I mean I do not want to insult the gunsmiths but keep in mind they are not gods !!! Some are very good, I mean really but others are averages as in all professions. Every gunsmith learned from someone else... I'm the kind of guy that like to learn new things and I like challenges !!! I like this site because poeple like to share their knowledge. If you wanted to discourage me, sorry but try again !!! I can do searches on the net but I don't have much spare time these days that's why I was asking...

I am aware of the risks that may be involved and I thank you for warning me.

Friendly,
Ben
 
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I made mine with a grade 5 bolt and welded with a mig
the extremely important thing to remember is if any heat get to the bolt lugs, your bolt body is scrap.

and dont bother too much to get the scope at a low position, later this winter I mant to make a higher base wit an ejection deflector to stop spent cases to hit the scope


img0851cz.jpg
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img0852tf.jpg
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That looks horrible!

Kidding, can you post some more pics it looks like an interesting build.
 
ER70S-2 is ideal for welding something like this with tig. You can do a good job with mig as well.

Ha-Haaaaaaa thats what I was looking 4, thx Grizz !!!

ER70S-2 - Mild Steel TIG Welding Rod

They made it in 5 diameter sizes, 0.035, 0.045, 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8
I think 0.045 or 1/16 will be fine...

+ its cheap, 4 to 8 bucks per pound... :yingyang:

tigweldingrod.jpg
 
OP.
Brownells has bolt handle specific welding rod. The claim is that it bonds well with typical bolt steel, fills well, and takes an even blue.
My product tag reads; "3.5 percent nickle steel welding rod. net contents .080"/4 oz. #080-547-025".
FWIW.
 
OP.
Brownells has bolt handle specific welding rod. The claim is that it bonds well with typical bolt steel, fills well, and takes an even blue.
My product tag reads; "3.5 percent nickle steel welding rod. net contents .080"/4 oz. #080-547-025".
FWIW.

I will have to take a look at this product...
0.080 is maybe a bit big...
 
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