incressing accuracy how?

What do you mean by "Check the op rod guide for sloppiness". Is that the spring aligment rod or the charging handle/ rod. And what do u mean by slopyness.
 
Stirring the pot :D

Ummm....:stirthepot2:

My 09 M305 would shoot 150 gr Winchester ammo into 3"@100 yds with an aluminum scope mount from CanadaAmmo and a Bushnell Trophy scope. Of course, this was off the bench with a rest, box stock except for the mount/scope.

The trigger was horrible compared to what I'm used to, so I sent the rifle to M14Doctor for some of his magic (and I wanted a shorty, this before CanadaAmmo started bringing in the shorty versions-grrrrr). Now it shoots into 2 inches-plenty good enough for the deer I hunt in the terrain I hunt in.

I have not yet tried to work up a good load for this rifle ('cause I'm lazy :p and factory ammo was good enough).

Handloaded ammo may give better groups in this rifle, I don't know - but I DO know that the M305 is accurate enough for hunting at any reasonable (for the cartridge) range.
 
Anything that shakes or rattles on the rifle will affect the consistent accuracy of the rifle. With these divas of rifles you need to repeat the small things - gas lock at the same position (tight at 5 o'clock), gas plug torqued to the same setting (120 to 140 inch/pounds), cleaned and lubed the same way (too much lube makes it shoot differently), stock/trigger lockup nice and tight...blah blah.

HOWEVER...I'll say it again, good gear doesn't necessarily translate to accurate rifles. Its the dummy behind it that makes the biggest impact.
 
saders said:
What do you mean by "Check the op rod guide for sloppiness". Is that the spring aligment rod or the charging handle/ rod. And what do u mean by slopyness.
Click to expand...

Oprod - the charging handle/rod
Oprod guide - what the oprod is steered by which is attached to the barrel.

If you field strip your rifle and grab the guide with your fingers you shouldn't be able to move it at all. If it moves and you see a weird pattern on the end of the oprod (where the piston hits it on firing - should be a circle and not figure eights) then you have issues. Simple fix, usually a busted split pin, and it makes a big difference
 
Freerider said:
No worries I thought the same until Hungry sorted me out. I wish I had heard of flipping the gas lock over and tried that on mine before I shimmed might not of needed it. On the other hand shims worked so nothing lost and I don't really feel like taking it all apart to try. Maybe on my next one.

Saders next free upgrade I would recommend is ensuring your Op Rod Guide is centred and on tight again info in that link I posted after that I would ensure your trigger group is spotless then give it the Hungry recommended trigger job. After that if you want to spend some money best bang for your buck upgrade I did was the changing out your Op rod spring guide for a match version.

Oh and rounds down range speaking of I better get back to work loading up a 100 to shoot this weekend.

Enjoy
Click to expand...
what's the hungry trigger job?
 
Hungry can explain it better but essentially remove trigger group close trigger guard and manual #### and under controll dry fire it while you watch an entire hockey game.
 
Used to that with Ruger: Dunk in Methyl Hydrate (Paint solvent, methanol) and squeeze trigger through Magnum PI and the Angels! It would smooth out any Ruger trigger!:D

Regards,
Henry;)
 
while on the topic of shimming gas block and gas port alignment, and rather than start a new thread, My gas cylinder is aligned perfect with the port (allen key drops right in), but my lock is still loose. do I go about fixing?
Will shimming mess up my alignment?
I'm slowly making progress on this, hopefully soon I can stop asking questions and start helping!
 
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