arcticcathonda
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
Do it!!!
Installing the Loggerhead ACP adjustable cheek riser hardware on my .338LM
- Thread starter Kevin M.
- Start date
Here we go! Not so bad actually now that I did it.
Dremel as deep as you can go all around... pretty easy to do as long as you have a steady hand. I'm not perfect, nor an artist, but other than the odd tiny little wobble, it turned out really nice I think, especially considering this will be covered by the cheek riser.
Ignore the pencil line on this, I was going from the symmetrical template.
Once that is done, use the jab saw to cut through the core foam, and get the corners cut... which actually was pretty tough, it turns out that it is really solid foam they used to fill the stocks... not exactly spray foam in a can lol.
So I was able to get the bottom cut with the jab saw, and the two top cuts, but realized that I had no access to the diagonal cuts, because the dremel did not make it through the plastic far enough... Over to the scroll saw we go....
Here is the core of my stock. seems like there is about 1/2"-3/4" of hard plastic encasing the foam, but hard to tell until I start cleaning out the foam to make room for the Devcon 10110.
And here she is taped back together for fit check... Not too bad! Could use some body work still, but as it stands it should work just fine even without.
That is one big step down! Cutting the stock was always the hardest thing for me, and now that it is done I can get on to the work I feel more comfortable doing.
WOO HOO!
Dremel as deep as you can go all around... pretty easy to do as long as you have a steady hand. I'm not perfect, nor an artist, but other than the odd tiny little wobble, it turned out really nice I think, especially considering this will be covered by the cheek riser.
Ignore the pencil line on this, I was going from the symmetrical template.
Once that is done, use the jab saw to cut through the core foam, and get the corners cut... which actually was pretty tough, it turns out that it is really solid foam they used to fill the stocks... not exactly spray foam in a can lol.
So I was able to get the bottom cut with the jab saw, and the two top cuts, but realized that I had no access to the diagonal cuts, because the dremel did not make it through the plastic far enough... Over to the scroll saw we go....
Here is the core of my stock. seems like there is about 1/2"-3/4" of hard plastic encasing the foam, but hard to tell until I start cleaning out the foam to make room for the Devcon 10110.
And here she is taped back together for fit check... Not too bad! Could use some body work still, but as it stands it should work just fine even without.
That is one big step down! Cutting the stock was always the hardest thing for me, and now that it is done I can get on to the work I feel more comfortable doing.
WOO HOO!
Looking great so far.
Here is a thread that may help you on someone doing the same. He is able to get it seamless when closed and looks sweet. Hope it helps:
http://forum.snipershide.com/sniper...-stock-integrated-adjustable-cheek-piece.html
Shawn
Here is a thread that may help you on someone doing the same. He is able to get it seamless when closed and looks sweet. Hope it helps:
http://forum.snipershide.com/sniper...-stock-integrated-adjustable-cheek-piece.html
Shawn
Alright, did some more work tonight... after working myself up with a beer or two and some good firearms related programming that is... I got my priorities lol.
Started inletting the stock, found out how deep the foam goes, about 5/8" below where my cut is, then the stock is hollow just as expected. I used a dremel router bit to get the bulk of the foam out of the way, and I will sand the edges smooth later.
Lining up the hardware in the middle of the cut, the composite is just a bit to narrow for the loggerhead to fit in, so I marked where I needed to remove material.
And inletted. Like I said, I need to square everything up properly still with sandpaper then the Devcon.
I love progress!
Started inletting the stock, found out how deep the foam goes, about 5/8" below where my cut is, then the stock is hollow just as expected. I used a dremel router bit to get the bulk of the foam out of the way, and I will sand the edges smooth later.
Lining up the hardware in the middle of the cut, the composite is just a bit to narrow for the loggerhead to fit in, so I marked where I needed to remove material.
And inletted. Like I said, I need to square everything up properly still with sandpaper then the Devcon.
I love progress!
I would really love to do this to my rifle, but I have serious reservations about my skill and the ability to get the materials you're talking about lol. How much do you think it would take a gun smith to do this (I ask for time, in terms that all gunsmiths charge by hour for work done). It does look awesome and I think having it done like this where it is actually part of the stock I think would be the perfect way to go. Any chance you would be willing to do another one if someone was willing to pay you and send you the stock?
arcticcathonda
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
Was quoted around 200-250$ including time and materials, and hardware to have this done to my HS precision stock I used to have by a local gunsmith.
I'll let you know the approx # of hours into this when I am done.
As for doing another, let me finish this one first and see how it goes.
What you see is what you got lol. Work is pretty busy right now, we are getting ready for a big snowfall so we have been trying to clean up our jobsites and get the plows ready for service. I'll post up when I move forward.
- Location
- Canada, west
I soooo hate you right now!!
I soooo hate you right now!!
LOL, get in line!
Spent some time today and trued up the angles and lines of the cuts I made, used a flat file on the stock and a bench sander on the cheekpiece... now all the lines are just about perfect (close enough for me anyways) and there is a consistent gap all around both sides.
I've been looking around, found a few various models that look alright, but it depends on how many directions you want the stock to be adjustable for, 1, 2 or 3 directions.
Drilled the locking nut assembly today... she is looking fine!
Marking the holes on both sides. 1/2" from top of stock/ hardware to center of hole, 1/2" drill bit required for the hole.
1/8" pilot hole from both sides.
Fortunately my marks and drilling were accurate, and they lined up perfectly, I could put the drill straight through both sides.
Bump the bit up to the 1/2" drill bit.
And with the loggerhead temporarily installed to see fit.
Backside...
The bolt assembly sits about 1/16" below flush on both sides naturally, which is just perfect for me, it means no snagging or scratching on anything, while not being too far into the stock either.
Next up, epoxy.
Marking the holes on both sides. 1/2" from top of stock/ hardware to center of hole, 1/2" drill bit required for the hole.
1/8" pilot hole from both sides.
Fortunately my marks and drilling were accurate, and they lined up perfectly, I could put the drill straight through both sides.
Bump the bit up to the 1/2" drill bit.
And with the loggerhead temporarily installed to see fit.
Backside...
The bolt assembly sits about 1/16" below flush on both sides naturally, which is just perfect for me, it means no snagging or scratching on anything, while not being too far into the stock either.
Next up, epoxy.
Alright I lied, I chickened out on the epoxy again lol.
I decided to inlet the upper cheek riser to fit the hardware.
Marked it all out and tossed it in my bench mill and slowly inletted it. I decided to leave it a bit shallow for two reasons, the first is that it leaves the cheek riser stronger by removing less material, and secondly, by measuring the gap needed, I let the hardware when bottomed out to line up properly with the original lines of the stock, since I do not plan on doing the seamless approach. (It is a lot of work to just cover up with a cheek bag, plus I am never really going to have it bottomed out anyways due to the C clip.
Fits like a glove.
No C-clip, so bottomed out.
And here with the C-clip at about 2/3 of its vertical travel.
So nothing is epoxyed yet, all just friction fit. Going to keep reading on how to use the devcon. I want to be reallllly sure I don't screw up after all this work.
I decided to inlet the upper cheek riser to fit the hardware.
Marked it all out and tossed it in my bench mill and slowly inletted it. I decided to leave it a bit shallow for two reasons, the first is that it leaves the cheek riser stronger by removing less material, and secondly, by measuring the gap needed, I let the hardware when bottomed out to line up properly with the original lines of the stock, since I do not plan on doing the seamless approach. (It is a lot of work to just cover up with a cheek bag, plus I am never really going to have it bottomed out anyways due to the C clip.
Fits like a glove.
No C-clip, so bottomed out.
And here with the C-clip at about 2/3 of its vertical travel.
So nothing is epoxyed yet, all just friction fit. Going to keep reading on how to use the devcon. I want to be reallllly sure I don't screw up after all this work.
