Is it possible to straighten a warped stock? Work completed...

Pblatzz

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Is it possible to straighten a warped stock? The bend is a slight one to the right about a 1/8" to perhpas 1/4". Stock is walnut. Any thoughts?
 
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It can be done, steam and properly applied pressure, find a good gunsmith or if you need to do it yourself do some research. This is just a general reply try looking under cast off in shotguns or stock fitting in most any good gunsmithing book. Even if someone was willing to reply in full to this query the problem would require a lot more detail. all the best art
 
The stock is a Parker Hale 1200TX, the stock from the front of the action is warped to the right. Making the barrel go left. The bedding is cracked and seems loose.

or

is it easier to relieve the stock, remove the old bedding and realign the barreled action?
 
I don't know if I would try bending a stock myself inless I was willing to see it end up firewood. Stress in wood is a funny to deal with. If you did bend it back there is no way of knowing it won't take that shape again. I think I would rebed the rifle. Good luck
 
I don't know if I would try bending a stock myself inless I was willing to see it end up firewood. Stress in wood is a funny to deal with. If you did bend it back there is no way of knowing it won't take that shape again. I think I would rebed the rifle. Good luck

I do a lot of woodworking, as I suspect treebutcher also does, and this bit of advice is dead on. If you do use heat and steam to warp it back leave the stock sit in a regular room for at LEAST a week to see if it goes back again. Also to let the heat and steam in the best the stock will probably require stripping to bare wood and refinishing. The more the bend needs to go the more of a requirement to strip the stock or at the very least the more time in the hot steam.

If there's a twisty bit of grain knotting at the point of the kink or if there's a lot of runout in the grain then it may just be the seasonal humidity change. Come the summer it may well warp back to straight. Wood is like this. Unless you cast it in a block of epoxy the wood will take or give moisture when the surrounding air is more or less moist than the moisture level of the wood. It's a constantly changing thing. Wood finishes will slow down and reduce the exchange but it won't get rid of it completely.

Now if this warp has been in it for a long time and you're sure it is stable at this point, or as stable as wood can be, then you could consider hogging out the receiver and barrel channels and glass bedding the receiver and leave the barrel to free float.
 
The easiest and best way I have found is to mill a 1/2 inch wide slot almost through the forend down the middle from just in front of the action to the tip.

It will then "bend" straight easier and while held straight in a vise by however you can do it... (I use a piece of wood cut to the right length pushing against the stock and the wall behind my bench).. epoxy a piece of aluminum shaped like a square U with several holes drilled in it...

After it cures glass bed the action while the barrel is resting centered in the barrel channel.

Browning BBR forends were channeled and had a U shaped piece of aluminum in then from the factory.. and they never warped ever...

.
 
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The 1200TX is a target rifle and as such should have a stable stock. If the stock is wrapped as much as you state it should be replaced.

The stock for the 1200TX is European walnut and very poor quality.as many were cut wrong from the blank. Find a beech stock from a C3 and use it as a replacement. All these stocks were bedded with "Bisonite" ....again a material that is prone to cracking and delamination....normally replaced with "Devcon Steel". The action is bedded only in the pressure points and the barrel free floating.

Posting a couple picturers may give us a clearer inside to your issue.
 
just some thoughts. how long have you owned the gun. was the stock always like that or did it just start this winter. where is the gun stored. I own a guitar repair business and you will not believe how much wood can move from the humidity of summer to the dryness in winter. if the stock was fine in the summer and warped now it means it has dryed out (wood heat in your house). the stock could have not been totally dry when it was made and now has shrunk as it dried out. if this is the case you can bring it back by getting the moisture back to where it was when it was made. the only problem is you have to keep it there all the time (why synthetic stocks are good). also if this is the problem and you try steaming and straighting, when summer comes you can have a whole new set of problems.
 
Here's some picts

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P3060003.JPG
 
The options are:

1) Remove bedding and hog out a small amount of wood on the left of the stock near where the action rests under the bolt release? Then pivot the action/barrel a bit to minimalize the issue a bit more than it is. Keeping in mind the screw hole placement. vThe current bedding is cracked and seems loose.

2) Try to straighten the stock? yikes.

3) Dry the wood and see if it self corrects?

4) Anyone have a C3 stock?
 
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Well - I just went through similar effort. I suggest you make the decision with the bedding hogged out. The action orientation is fixed by the guard screws, so you dont have much room to move axially, unless the receiver was binding in the stock, and causing the action to shift in the first place - Do the guard screws bind currently?
In my case, the trigger guard was interfering with the stock, causing it to cant slightly. This also caused the action to cant via the action screws. The canting caused the barrel to shift axially, as yours is. I relieved the interference and voila, problem solved.
 
Well - I just went through similar effort. I suggest you make the decision with the bedding hogged out. The action orientation is fixed by the guard screws, so you dont have much room to move axially, unless the receiver was binding in the stock, and causing the action to shift in the first place - Do the guard screws bind currently?
In my case, the trigger guard was interfering with the stock, causing it to cant slightly. This also caused the action to cant via the action screws. The canting caused the barrel to shift axially, as yours is. I relieved the interference and voila, problem solved.

Im going to take this route. The stock does have a slight curve, but it is minimal. I will look at the play in the stock bolts later on today.

Pete
 
Of course you could full length glass bed and still have a free-floated barrel, setting up some sort of holding/pressure device to hold the stock straight while the bedding cures. The only trick to that would be jigging up so that you still have access to the action screws to seat the action home properly.

She won't move after that!
 
Well today I took the rifle out to the shop. Removed the barrel (I had seen inside before) and began the work. Took some picts of the job in progress(first time to do that in 500 projects).

We can see the inside of the stock with damge from the floor plate being caught in the bedding/stock?

P3070007.JPG


Then the cracks in the oroiginal bedding. sorry the red circles are small to see.

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Removed the bedding, came out very fast and easy. Looks like dried plumbers putty.

P3070010.JPG
 
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