Is sandblasting ok?

Alot of the times the firing pins on the no4's develop a small burr near the end of the firing pin where the screw is attached at the rear with the cocking piece. If there is a burr, you will have to remove it by using a fine dremel bit and grinding it away. I broke a few firing pin removal tools trying to get a firing pin out i thought was seized, but in reality, it developed a small burr where i mentioned that has to be removed before you can remove the firing pin.

If there is a burr present, you should be able to see it by looking at the rear threading where you removed the screw from the cocking piece that prevents the firing pin from spinning.

hope that can help!
 
oh man i think i should have posted before i tried to take it apart, took the screw out..... i didnt know i had to ugh, firing pin turned out like a champ, so heres my other question, i bent the firing pin at the back in the cocking piece, is it safe to straighten it out?
 
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Look in dry ice blasting. Not as aggressive as other compounds and as it just evaporates away no no ntamination in your gun parts other that what was removed. Can also ge used on wood if the blaster guy is good.
 
i have chemically stripped everything, i ahve this stuff called campmorton rust remover and it works amazingly, gets rid of all the oils too, stripped all the other paint and loose paint off to, mix it with water and let it sit, next step is to blu the bolt then start on the bbl and reciever
 
Wire wheeling has been mentionned. There are all sorts of wire wheels. A coarse wire wheel used with a heavy hand can do lots of harm. A fine wire wheel, which has been broken in on scrap can be used very effectively. The piece is not presented to the face of the wheel, against the ends of the wires. It is pressed against the edge, on the side of the wheel, so there is a wiping action. Used with a light touch, rust can be removed without stripping the steel back to bare metal.
I use aluminum oxide or glass beads in my cabinet. Usually al-ox, at 40-50 pounds. This gives a nice base for Park. Cold blue applied to clean fresh from the cabinet pieces bites well, and the effect is of a matte blue.
 
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Little bit of an update, all the small pieces have been blued or are sitting in oil, next step is to refinish the reciever and barrel
 
Tap out the pin on the left side, then push the sight pivot out. Its not a screw. The slot is so the hole for the pin can be lined up.
 
Its not a screw its a pin. On the left side of a gun there is a notch a small pin pointing down and up. Knock it out from bottom up. Put pressure on the sight base and knock the pin out. Be careful removing the rear sight after the pin is out because there is spring pressure against it.
 
The little lock pin can be replaced with a piece of soft steel wire. Litttle piece of finishing nail, etc.
 
so i got a little anxious and couldnt wait for the other set i got, so i stole the sporter monte carlo stock from my parker hale sported one, i will restain the wood but not sure when, ive got a few spots of bluing that i need to touch up but im quite happy with the end result, thanks a ton to everybody on here who helped me out

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thoughts comments all criticism accepted
 
No criticism here. It was a low end commercial sporter in so so condition so do what you like with it I'd say. You could refinish that Parker Hale stock without any loss to posterity either.

No better way to learn about a gun than to take it down and put it together again. Cheap, reliable, fast, accurate, natural handling, excellent sights and safety features. I guess the only thing we could ask for would be more strength in case someone goes to sleep at the press and fills their cases with pistol powder.

Can't have it all!
 
like i said ive got a second stock set coming, but this wood set might get thrown back onto my parker hale sporter, touch up some of the lighter bluing and go from there, was trying to sell it but nobody wanted it so i redid it
 
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