just bought an SKS (now with pics)

who cares if the gun gets corroded or pitted, they're so cheap buy a new one when it stops working properly, and there is lots of non corrosive ammo out there. mine is 15+ years old, i treat it like a jack handle and still shoot lots of gophers with it, they are just fun to shoot, so what if you cant shoot 1" groups with it, they are cheap and you get what you pay for.
 
silverado7 said:
so how often do you do the hot water treatment? after so many rounds or after every time you shoot it?
thanks
I do after every shooting session with corrosive.
However with PMC and the like I just use hoppes, followed by oil spareingly.
I also spend alot of extra time on the Gas cylinder no matter what getting all the nooks and crannies with Qtips and solvents.
I have yet to see any major fouling, or corrosion at all in the barrel and gas system.
 
jjwelin said:
I just blast it all out with WD40... works great.

you just blast WD40 down the barrel and not the internal parts? i heard WD40 leaves a residue that causes seizure, true?

swift5337: i care , cos its my head behind the corroded gun.
 
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IMHO WD-40 is crap in firearms, some of the most seized up guns I have ever seen have been subject to this water displacement spray, and I doubt it will stand up to the heat generated in the SKS action.

If one has to use a spray after the hot water, and drying treatment try out G-96.

Also clean gun oil will not hurt your firearms...so as long as your bolt can rattle, then oil your friken moving metal to metal parts.
 
I use windex and a boresnake on mine after every session. Followed by hoppes and oil. Works like a charm.
30 cal boresnake is way better than any sectional rod will be on your chamber and it fits my M14 too.
Mine shoots 2 MOA at 100. That's the longest range I've had so far. Covers my needs. :)
 
The internals will rust right before you eyes. I wash in hot soapy water then soak everything in "eds red" mixture. Use the nylon brush in the toolkit to clean the inside of all the tubes. I grease the inside where the bolt an carrier meet, the rails on the carrier, the rails in the receiver, the bottom of the bolt and a small blob on the rings of the gas piston. I now put a little grease where the gas tube joins the rifle at the gas block in the front. I'm sure you could get away without that much lube, but it keeps my sks's working well and easy to clean and rust free
 
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