My son is in Kandahar and said that the dust is so bad they don't lub their C7s and pistols, he says he doesn't like it but the dust is like baby powder and sticks to any oil. I believe they had a similar problem in Irag and there was a lube that worked and didn't attract dust . I believe the lube is " MILITEC " is it acceptable by the military in Canadian C7s and Brownings ? Where would I find some in Canada.
Kandahar firearm lube ?
- Thread starter BEARMAN
- Start date
I don't know specifically about 'MILITEC' but perhaps a good graphite dry lube might work as well? I know a lot of high-end bike shops sell a dry graphite chain lube which I've used with success on hunting rifles; I've also used a spray-on Moly lube on a number of guns with good success (although not in Mil-Spec sorts of conditions, of course).
Good luck, and be sure to thank your Son on our behalf for his service to his Country!
-M
Good luck, and be sure to thank your Son on our behalf for his service to his Country!
-M
I'm curious, did he say how his guns are holding up ? There's a few folks here in the Yukon that I know that have never ever in their entire life put gun oil on their guns. Solvent to clean and that's the end of it. Apparently after many, many years of use, they still work perfectly.
Not sure if I personally completely buy that, but I can't argue with results either.
Not sure if I personally completely buy that, but I can't argue with results either.
I can't agree with that statement. Clean metal to metal contact is at least between materials of similar hardness. If you put sand or other fine grit into a lube, you've just made an abrasive paste. That will really accelerate wear.
That's ok, we don't have to agree, this is a board to discuss
The fine sand and grit will stick and cake the metal, lube or no lube.
Take you pick, dry sanding your metal bits or putting the sand in suspension/coated with lube and wet sanding your metal
.Keep in mind, I'm not saying that wear of the guns will not occur. The point is not about worrying about your finish and metal wear....it's about keeping your guns working.
One Shot Tactical (dealer banner above) carried Militec, not sure if they still do. You can also order it online direct from Militec's website: 3w.militec1.com/onlinestore.html
Dave's Surplus (another dealer banner above) used to carry the graphite powder, not sure if they still do either.
Dave's Surplus (another dealer banner above) used to carry the graphite powder, not sure if they still do either.
Lube
Remington makes an excellent dri-lube that leaves a teflon like residue that is very tough. Unfortunately, Desert conditions are real hard on weapons systems and that fine talcum powder like dust is going to creep into places the makers never thought of..
Dr.Bob
Remington makes an excellent dri-lube that leaves a teflon like residue that is very tough. Unfortunately, Desert conditions are real hard on weapons systems and that fine talcum powder like dust is going to creep into places the makers never thought of..
Dr.Bob
I can see the point to an extent. A dry action won't attract or hold the dust/grit to it, whereas a 'wet' action will. But too much lube may gum it up as it attracts more grit, too. Then again, a dry action may build up more carbon deposits, etc. which may tend to befoul the action more than if it were lubed. So, who knows?
Finally, if it's the army's rifle anyway, what do I care if it wears out?
Finally, if it's the army's rifle anyway, what do I care if it wears out?
Check out Vicker's Tactical Site.
This is old news.
Heavy lube in dusty places is the key to continued function. Everyone else here is just speculating on what will work based on what they think, not operational experience. We're dealing with select fire combat rifles, not bolt actions.
This is old news.
Heavy lube in dusty places is the key to continued function. Everyone else here is just speculating on what will work based on what they think, not operational experience. We're dealing with select fire combat rifles, not bolt actions.
I used the same moly-grease we used on the 25mm cannons on my personal weapon and all of our support weapons, worked like a charm.All weapons need lube to function properly,or they will fail. If your son and company are not using any lube they are doing something wrong, I suggest you contact him and tell him to cease this idiotic practice. There is no need for any of the wonder lubes out there, I found Militec to be no better than CLP.and nothing better than moly grease.
I contacted w.militec-1.com to ask about a Canadian distributer and explained why. They said send my sons address and they would send some free to him or any service person. Check out their site for info, they sound like a good company to buy from, but I sure would like to know a Canadian distributer.
OIL & Grit
I can tell you what oil mixed with fine sand and grit does to an FNC1A1 7.62mm ...... binds it up PDQ to the point where you needed a bayonet to open the folding cocking handle.
Crawling through the weeds in the Wainright Training area (or Shilo), bouncing around in the back of canvas topped vehicles, playing in the sand box, etc., etc. grit will find every possible opening and crevice to creep into and bind with the requisite 'thin film of oil' the army required.
Once you got it cocked, it worked. Never heard a Brit complain about their SLR version with the cross-slotted breechblock carrier, and they served in some pretty dry, dusty terrain in the Middle East. The cocking handle on theirs stuck out where you could get it.
Magazines accumulated an incredible amount of dust and dirt which found it's way up and into the breech when the rifle was fired. Always a good way to catch out a soldier was to strip a magazine ......
I keep my Garands greased on the points recommended. If they did that in the Pacific, North Africa, Sicily and Italy, they must have had a problem, but they didn't have a rep for binding up.
I can tell you what oil mixed with fine sand and grit does to an FNC1A1 7.62mm ...... binds it up PDQ to the point where you needed a bayonet to open the folding cocking handle.
Crawling through the weeds in the Wainright Training area (or Shilo), bouncing around in the back of canvas topped vehicles, playing in the sand box, etc., etc. grit will find every possible opening and crevice to creep into and bind with the requisite 'thin film of oil' the army required.
Once you got it cocked, it worked. Never heard a Brit complain about their SLR version with the cross-slotted breechblock carrier, and they served in some pretty dry, dusty terrain in the Middle East. The cocking handle on theirs stuck out where you could get it.
Magazines accumulated an incredible amount of dust and dirt which found it's way up and into the breech when the rifle was fired. Always a good way to catch out a soldier was to strip a magazine ......
I keep my Garands greased on the points recommended. If they did that in the Pacific, North Africa, Sicily and Italy, they must have had a problem, but they didn't have a rep for binding up.
Lots of guys use the dry graphite to avoid having the dust sludge build-up.
Myself, I use the issued CLP - it is always available, graphite often isn't. With a mag in, the ejection port closed, and one of those muzzle cap thingys on, you won't have a problem if you do a little minor cleaning daily
Never tried the grease yet, sounds like a good idea.
Myself, I use the issued CLP - it is always available, graphite often isn't. With a mag in, the ejection port closed, and one of those muzzle cap thingys on, you won't have a problem if you do a little minor cleaning daily
Never tried the grease yet, sounds like a good idea.
