Kipplauf Club

When the hereen is cocked is the trigger guard/ opening lever locked in place? If so how do you decock it?

I wonder how much force it takes to open

When the trigger guard is closed it’s locked into place. There’s a small lever inside the forward most portion of the guard that requires being pushed to open the guard.
 
Interested in those pics

Anything for you Slimbo

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A few things:

The case is waxed leather; I didn’t choose the colours or it would be more of a classic earth tone or green tbh. This fabric is difficult to sew with a non commercial machine. There is padding in between the layers.

Originally we had planned to have a pocket on front covering the elastic shell holder across the middle but the design made this difficult. The elastic portion is still there but unlikely to see use

My mum, who is a former seamstress, made this without a pattern. She described it as very difficult and said she was not interested in making anymore. Bear that in mind before buying your wife a sewing machine.

The case ended up taking more of a folding form when I was envisioning more of a roll. It could be considerably smaller for strapping to a bag if converted into more of a roll.

It’s still not especially large. I have a small stack on gun cabinet and I was able to put it in the back
with four other guns in there
 
https://fanzoj.com/mountain-kingdom/

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Been a while since I’ve been on the Fanzoj sight to plan my post lottery builds, so I missed out on this baby.

I think that is an enlarged version of their kippblock system with a massive dolls head on it. Would love to see more about the action. The styling is not to my taste but undoubtedly took a lot of skill. Nice combo of old and new on stock design etc.


Joins the prinz as one of two 338 lapua kipplaufs I know of. Not a lot, but more than I’d think

https://revivaler.com/prinz-no-1-single-shot-rifle/


Edit:

Another new one from fanzoj

https://fanzoj.com/collection/single-shot-rifles/fanzoj-kipplauf-petite/

4.8lbs in some serious euro 22 centrefires, bet it’s a great chamois or Swiss marmot hunting gun in 17 hmr and it’s light weight allows you to carry more kirsch

Wow, that Fanzoj is something...not sure what, but something. At risk of displaying my hillbilly tendencies...I think it is butt-ugly. Impressive as all hell, both from a functional viewpoint and also as an example of artistry, but it's sort of like a Picasso; I'd love to have one just so I could sell it, but I sure as hell wouldn't want to hang it on my wall. :)

The Prinz is far more attractive in form, and the example shown on the Revivaler website you linked is, IMHO, gorgeous. To my eye, it's very easy to overdo engravings, gold inlays, carvings, etc. and to me a truly beautiful rifle is one that is beautiful even when unadorned. The Prinz is a perfect example. But I must admit that I can't figure out how the dang thing works!

The pics show the area at the rear of the barrel, at the top, with deep recesses, and on the locked rifle there is shown a a silver-coloured piece with lugs engaging those recesses. The pics of the open rifle don't really make it clear to me where that piece goes; once you swing the opening lever to the side, it must somehow disengage that piece, but how? Where is it? The one pic of the open action should reveal this clearly, but to me at least it doesn't. There is another pic a bit later showing an empty being ejected, but they put too much effort into making that a dark, dramatic, artsy action shot...and the result is it doesn't really show a damn thing clearly.

How does this rifle operate?

Thanks for posting those pics of the Haenel mounted with Talleys. I have been wanting to do that with mine for awhile now; I am thoroughly sick of looking at that ridiculously bulky and over-engineered mount that I have on it now. This rifle is such a sleek lightweight little sweetheart that it deserves better; I think you have found it.

The case is nice as well. I've tried a few different commercial lightweight takedown cases; they all work, but none are perfect. Most are bigger and bulkier than necessary; I may try one of the Skinner cases next.
 
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I think it’s a falling block and the “piece” moves downward into the action?

The difference between it and others being that it has the 4 lugs machined into the block for additional strength?

I want a close up/ breakdown of both the actions. The fanzoj kippblock looks interesting as well, I want to know what the deal with the lock is, does it “float” like the jager lock? Looks like the dolls head connects with it?

Re Haenel:

I think the real move would be to machine Talley bases into the 11mm rail on the Haenel. I’m no gunsmith but it looks like you could do it.

The scope is now lower than the previous mount and it helps with cheek weld and recoil. Weight has certainly been dropped.

I’m thinking of getting 1 inch rings and a light 4x pistol scope to fit just over the top of the receiver. I don’t think getting under 6.5 lbs with current bases and Talley rings would be hard.

The current scope is a clunker but damned if they aren’t great scopes, also very on theme.

The downside of the new arrangement is obviously the limits on mounting length and eye relief for the scope. If you dropped the ring height below high the scope would interfere with loading and unloading.
 
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I think it’s a falling block and the “piece” moves downward into the action?

The difference between it and others being that it has the 4 lugs machined into the block for additional strength?

I want a close up/ breakdown of both the actions. The fanzoj kippblock looks interesting as well, I want to know what the deal with the lock is, does it “float” like the jager lock?

I think the real move would be to machine Talley bases into the 11mm rail on the Haenel. I’m no gunsmith but it looks like you could do it.

The scope is now lower than the previous mount and it helps with cheek weld and recoil. Weight has certainly been dropped.

I’m thinking of getting 1 inch rings and a light 4x pistol scope to fit just over the top of the receiver. I don’t think getting under 6.5 lbs with current bases and Talley rings would be hard.

The current scope is a clunker but damned if they aren’t great scopes, also very on theme.

The downside of the new arrangement is obviously the limits on mounting length and eye relief for the scope. If you dropped the ring height below high the scope would interfere with loading and unloading.

Yes, they definitely should be showing off and explaining that cool little locking mechanism a bit better. I'll be honest: I don't find loading/unloading a falling-block fixed-barrel rifle any more awkward or difficult than a tilting-barrel, so trying to combine both features in one seems more like a "Hey! Look at how forward-thinking we are!" move than anything else. Is it stronger? Okay, sure, if they say so...but how strong must it be? A Ruger #1 is already far stronger than necessary for almost any sporting cartridge; do we need it to be stronger still? I guess if you do really want a tilting-barrel single-shot .338Lapua, this is probably the way to go, but...how many people really want an ultra-lightweight Lapua Mag? I tend to think that a single-shot enthusiast and a Lapua Mag devotee are pretty far apart on the general gun-owning spectrum.

I could convince myself to D/T a few holes in the top of the flat at the rear of the Haenel's barrel, as you did. Much harder to take the step to machining the top of the receiver, and without taking some measurements, I am pretty certain that the dovetail is smaller than the width required for a Talley dovetail, no? That would create problems unless you machined down even further/deeper, which may or may not be possible.

I have even toyed with the notion of simply drilling out a shallow hole on that flat to act as a recess that would mate with the recoil stop pin on one of the Euro air-rifle mounts, which I believe can be had in that same dovetail size. I wouldn't think this would be as strong as other solutions, but my rifle is a 7x65r so recoil isn't excessive. I think sticking to a smaller, lighter scope which would have less mass and inertia working to break the mounts free during recoil would be prudent. A Leupold 6x42 might be ideal.

I am also a huge fan (have several) of the S&B 6x on your gun, but it is pretty porky. I have noticed on Wolverine's site that S&B apparently makes that scope in a 1-inch version as well; depending upon the weight, that might work also, while maintaining the Euro flavour a bit better?
 
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The only reason I have a 30 mm is the old mount that came with the gun (MAKuick? Or some other fun name MAK mount).

I had a lot of issues with it, it was always coming loose. I sent the gun into a gunsmith for something else and they remounted the scope scratching the tube and snapping on the rings wearing down their sides

So now I have a scratched ~1000 30 mm scope and a big euro mount that needs new rings no one wants :(
 
I'll be honest: I don't find loading/unloading a falling-block fixed-barrel rifle any more awkward or difficult than a tilting-barrel, so trying to combine both features in one seems more like a "Hey! Look at how forward-thinking we are!"

Takes down like a Jager block, block can potentially be replaced by hand like a Jager block? The dolls head lockup attaching to the block makes it function more like a rigid falling block action?

I am more enthusiastic about the overbuilt component of the action than the “overstylized” engraving for sure. I’m more into working grade looking guns. Fine engraving like checkered safety levers, arabesque on locks etc and a bit of case hardening is alright but ornate doesn’t do it for me. Something to be said about a nice straight grain too. Skip line, basket weave, fish scale etc checkering: gross
 
Same here, a little engraving is ok, nice wood but not overly figured, simple but well executed checkering… a good looking gun without all the frills!!
 
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