Lathe size

I am just a self taught hobby Machinist and recommend purchasing a new (not wore out) Lathe Milling Machine combination like the Grizzly G9729 presently priced at USD 2495. Be prepared to spend about the same amount for Tooling like 4Jaw, perhaps a Indexing Turntable, Cutters, Endmills, quick changers and such.

When I purchased my Machine almost 20 years ago she paid for itself within the first Week when I was able (with advise of an experienced Machinist) to make a Gear the Local Machine Shop wanted 1200.** to make.

Cheers
 
I am just a self taught hobby Machinist and recommend purchasing a new (not wore out) Lathe Milling Machine combination like the Grizzly G9729 presently priced at USD 2495. Be prepared to spend about the same amount for Tooling like 4Jaw, perhaps a Indexing Turntable, Cutters, Endmills, quick changers and such.

When I purchased my Machine almost 20 years ago she paid for itself within the first Week when I was able (with advise of an experienced Machinist) to make a Gear the Local Machine Shop wanted 1200.** to make.

Cheers

Friends don't let friends, buy a 3-in1! :)

The basic problems with them, are manifold, starting with that they run at too high a spindle speed, at their lowest setting, generally. Set-ups demand some pretty open-minded imagination, in order to get done what you want beyond the basics, and they have the rigidity of a plate of overcooked pasta.

If I were to place money down as a bet, my $20 bill, says that the issues with 3-in-1 machines, have probably chased more guys away from metalworking and machining as a hobby, than they have caused a success with.

The few guys I HAVE seen come away happy from the ownership experience, were generally pretty experienced guys, that had the background, to be able to know how to cheat their way around the various shortcomings. I have seen an awful lot of new guys that were really frustrated with theirs.

And the guys I have seen consistently happy, were the guys doing metal spinning, a process where the high clearance of the chuck, and the high speeds, play directly towards the needs of the operator!

I understand the interest in buying new, but you can do a fair bit better, buying a decent machine that was built to a far higher standard, and that has a little wear, rather than buying a machine that is essentially already built with that and often more, wear, as it was built to a very low price. Saw a listing a short while back for a Dean, Smith and Grace lathe, 13x30" machine, asking was $5300, or, about what a similar rated capacity machine is new, off the floor at Busy Bee. Except the DSG is a TANK, and will outweigh the Busy Bee lathe by about two tons. Not a good 'upstairs apartment' lathe, but in every way, a better machine than the BB one.

My rule of thumb, when looking at the machine, is to see how it generally presents itself. Does it look like the Owner took care of it? Or did he use the lathe bed as a place to beat nails straight? Do the ways look the same from one end to the other, or is there an are that looks visually very different? What comes with it, makes a huge difference. I have bought a couple lathes, solely because of what tooling or accessories came with, so as to upgrade mine. Not the the stuff I sold on was bad, it just wasn't in quite as good shape, as what I kept.
And never forget, that the easiest way to find a better lathe, is to already have one at home! Seriously. They start falling from the trees, almost, and if you see an opportunity to upgrade, you should leap on it, if you can.

Look at lots of lathes, if you can, and you soon form a picture of which ones are in decent nick, vs. those that were simply not taken care of at all.
 
There have been some combination machines made that are quite solid. I believe one was a version of the Maximat 10. It was a conventional lathe, with a substantial vertical column bolted to the bed.
At one time a had a Palmgren lathe milling attachment which mounted on the cross slide. Got a mill drill, sold the Palmgren. Looking back now, I wish I'd kept it. One cannot have too much tooling...
 
There have been some combination machines made that are quite solid. I believe one was a version of the Maximat 10. It was a conventional lathe, with a substantial vertical column bolted to the bed.
At one time a had a Palmgren lathe milling attachment which mounted on the cross slide. Got a mill drill, sold the Palmgren. Looking back now, I wish I'd kept it. One cannot have too much tooling...

Yeah, they mounted the FB-2 Milling spindle on the back of the lathe.

One of my "I still kick myself!" moments, was turning down an absolutely MINT stand alone, FB-2 mill, with a PILE of accessories, including the Emco R/T, chucks to mount on that, and a bunch more, for the $2K it was offered to me by a machine tool dealer. Am pretty sure he had it sold for far more, before I was clear of the building... They had quoted me the price before they got the stuff out of a fella's basement shop. Credit to them, they held to their word. I think they were really happy I balked!

Yeah, I have a Milling Slide, aka: milling attachment, for my Myford. It has served pretty well, as poor a machine as a lathe is as a mill. Light cuts, lots of them. Made some neat parts on the set-up! I would recommend going the Milling Slide route over a 3-in-1, if mainly, that one does not have expectations that you will actually be able to do all the same work that you can on a proper milling machine. A useful kludge, rather than an all in one solution!
 
The one tool I was excited to get was an Atlas 7" shaper. Part of an estate lot. As it has turned out, I've rarely used it.
 
Before you purchase a used Lathe, chuck a 12" piece of 1" round into the Chuck tail end supported by a live Center turn it down with very light cuts to 7/8 from Tail end to Chuck then let the workpiece sit for 30 minutes before measuring with a good Caliper every inch.

If there are no differences (no more then .005)(halve a thousand) buy with confidence, otherwise hang on to your Money.

As for rigidity or spindle speeds on my own combination Lathe/Milling Machine, in almost 20 years I experienced no problems with mine but I always take light cuts and take my time.

Cheers
 
There is a book out there in which a chap does a really good job of threading and chambering rifle barrels using one of the combination machines. He understands the machine and works with it.
I'm sure I would rather have one than nothing at all.

Older manual machines are not used a lot in industrial settings any more. Larger machines are intimidating to home users - moving the suckers can be interesting. My 16" SB had an 8' bed, cast iron pedestals, etc. It was heavy. Had to be moved down a flight of stairs. Even with professionals doing it, it was a bit scary. Not something to attempt with a couple of friends and a case of beer.
My SM is 7 ' long; the bucket of the loader that delivered it was 8", my shop door is 9'. Worked out just fine. Waltzed it around the concrete floor using pipe rollers. Remarkably easy.
Sometimes larger machines are less expensive than smaller ones, because moving them can be a challenge. Use professionals. They have the equipment and experience.
 
Before you purchase a used Lathe, chuck a 12" piece of 1" round into the Chuck tail end supported by a live Center turn it down with very light cuts to 7/8 from Tail end to Chuck then let the workpiece sit for 30 minutes before measuring with a good Caliper every inch.

If there are no differences (no more then .005)(halve a thousand) buy with confidence, otherwise hang on to your Money.

As for rigidity or spindle speeds on my own combination Lathe/Milling Machine, in almost 20 years I experienced no problems with mine but I always take light cuts and take my time.

Cheers

That's a really lousy test, and bad advice, IMO.

All it really accomplishes, is to check if the tailstock is aligned, generally, a very easy thing to adjust back to truth. And often offset deliberately, for cutting long tapers. And if the current owner did a decent job of aligning the lathe as installed!

A Half thousandth, is .0005", by the way. And a caliper is a crap tool for accurate measurement. The tool for the job, would be a Micrometer. If the test was worth doing.

Better choices would be to search out, among others, "Rollie's Dad's Method" and the Two Collar Test for Lathe Alignment, and start there.

And, before one goes out shopping with the mindset of only being satisfied by perfection in every way, search out and read through a couple times, a document titled "In (modest) Praise of Clunkers!".

Hells, save ya the trouble of digging... http://www.mermac.com/klunker2.html While there, check out the link to Advice on Inspecting a Lathe, too!
 
That's a really lousy test, and bad advice, IMO.

All it really accomplishes, is to check if the tailstock is aligned, generally, a very easy thing to adjust back to truth. And often offset deliberately, for cutting long tapers. And if the current owner did a decent job of aligning the lathe as installed!

A Half thousandth, is .0005", by the way. And a caliper is a crap tool for accurate measurement. The tool for the job, would be a Micrometer. If the test was worth doing.

Better choices would be to search out, among others, "Rollie's Dad's Method" and the Two Collar Test for Lathe Alignment, and start there.

And, before one goes out shopping with the mindset of only being satisfied by perfection in every way, search out and read through a couple times, a document titled "In (modest) Praise of Clunkers!".

Hells, save ya the trouble of digging... http://www.mermac.com/klunker2.html While there, check out the link to Advice on Inspecting a Lathe, too!

With my test as described one finds out very quickly and most importantly if the Bed before the Cuck is worn which makes the Lathe worthless for precise work and of course if the Tailstock is properly adjusted which usually can easily be readjusted as you know.

Cheers
 
With my test as described one finds out very quickly and most importantly if the Bed before the Cuck is worn which makes the Lathe worthless for precise work and of course if the Tailstock is properly adjusted which usually can easily be readjusted as you know.

Cheers

No it doesn't. Both the head and tail stocks can be off, and you would never be wiser. And, if the seller was a right sh*t, he or she could as easily set it up to pass that test with flying colors, and you would still have a crap lathe!

Crap test, with crap results.

No lathe is 'worthless for precise work' when you do not define what that means.

And, if you know and understand the machine you have, you can meet whatever tolerances that you need, within reason, and make it work for you, instead of against you!
 
Well said trevj.
I have been biting my tongue when reading this advice.

Thank you.

There is poor advice, and really bad advice, and the 'test' proposed by Brassman, was about the worst advice I have seen in a long time.

I have bought a fair few machines, strictly based upon how they 'presented' themselves. They all turned out to be at least as good, and usually better, than what they appeared.

There is a lot of value in seeing a machine in the hands of it's owner. Does it look like it was cleaned and well maintained? Is it slathered in oil (good!) or is there none to be seen? (not good!).

Look for dings, divots, and chunks out of the bed and ways. Bad. Look for if the ways look pretty close to the same, from under the headstock, where the carriage does not reach, back towards the tail stock. Good. There WILL be some wear. Normal. If the bed has graunched sections that are rougher than a crappy back road, that is NOT normal wear. Bad.

Lots can be said about picking out a used machine tool. I prefer to pass on information, that will not amount to the folks who took it at face value, thinking I was an A-Hole!
 
I am just a self taught hobby Machinist and recommend purchasing a new (not wore out) Lathe Milling Machine combination like the Grizzly G9729 presently priced at USD 2495. Be prepared to spend about the same amount for Tooling like 4Jaw, perhaps a Indexing Turntable, Cutters, Endmills, quick changers and such.

When I purchased my Machine almost 20 years ago she paid for itself within the first Week when I was able (with advise of an experienced Machinist) to make a Gear the Local Machine Shop wanted 1200.** to make.

Cheers
I had one, thinking it would work well for me - I sold it after 2 years. Didn't take long to realize it was an imprecise lathe with a light, springy milling head.
 
I have been using a 13x37 LAM lathe for years and it has served me very well. Before I had a house and garage, I used a Taig lathe and it did most everything except barrel work. I made a host of bullet molds on that little lathe. Never should have sold it. My daughter has a Sherline lathe and that is an awsome little lathe. She uses it to make crochet handles but it would be great for screws and such.
 
I have been using a 13x37 LAM lathe for years and it has served me very well. Before I had a house and garage, I used a Taig lathe and it did most everything except barrel work. I made a host of bullet molds on that little lathe. Never should have sold it. My daughter has a Sherline lathe and that is an awsome little lathe. She uses it to make crochet handles but it would be great for screws and such.

With some imagination, all things can be done.

I recall seeing a post here that showed a Sherline, I think, being used to spin a barrel for cleaning up the finish. The lathe was on a bench, and he had rigged a steady rest a foot or so down the bench, well clear of the bed of the lathe, and it was working just fine.
 
How big can you handle?

This lathe https://www.kijiji.ca/v-tool-other/kawartha-lakes/20-hp-manual-lathe-10-foot-bed/1649558484 is a classic example of the price difference, that one faces going from something that is easily portable in, say, a station wagon, up to well beyond 'hobby' size. 24 inch diameter, 10 feet between centers.

Cheap as chips, if you can afford to move it and power it! Graziano is a good make, too!

Like I said, in Ontario, you should have no problems getting hooked up on a decent machine. Watch Craigslist, kijiji, facebook marketplace (even if you have to open a fake account), etc. Doesn't hurt to visit the local machine tool dealers too, to see what they tend to run across.

Do some reading, track down any info you can, on stuff that you see go by that looks interesting, and figure out what suits your needs best. With that well in hand, you should be able to recognize 'the' one, when it pops up in front of you.
 
I see that Graziano has a 20hp motor. That'll sure dim the lights in the house when its turned on...
 
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