LE Mk4 No1* firing pin tool
- Thread starter Irons78
- Start date
If you want to do this w/o buggering things up you need the proper fp removal tool. They can be made up w/o too much effort or you can buy one from Brownells for $39.99.
No 4 firing pins shouldn't be removed or adjusted w/o good reasons like a broken tip, deformed rod or improper fp protrusion.
No 4 firing pins shouldn't be removed or adjusted w/o good reasons like a broken tip, deformed rod or improper fp protrusion.
Maybe you could use that new and not so expensive tool available on EE right now :
Exchange of Military Surplus Rifle > Exchange of parts and accessories for Military Surplus Rifle (page 2) :
WTS : Enfield firing pin tool, No.1 and No.4
highlander
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Newfoundland
1. Unscrew and remove the bolt head.
2. Gently but firmly clamp exposed firing pin in a vice. (Rubber or wood in jaws would be good)
3. Remove set screw from rear of cocking piece. (Note how flush the firing pin is in the cocking piece for later reassembly)
4. Turn the whole bolt, (counter clockwise) unscrewing the firing pin. Watch out as the whole assemble is spring loaded.
5. Reassemble in reverse order.
Not the approved method for doing this but it will do when no proper tool is available.
If needed, a tool for this can be made up using a small deep socket (small enough to go up inside the bolt body) and cutting out the notches to fit the firing pin spring collar.
2. Gently but firmly clamp exposed firing pin in a vice. (Rubber or wood in jaws would be good)
3. Remove set screw from rear of cocking piece. (Note how flush the firing pin is in the cocking piece for later reassembly)
4. Turn the whole bolt, (counter clockwise) unscrewing the firing pin. Watch out as the whole assemble is spring loaded.
5. Reassemble in reverse order.
Not the approved method for doing this but it will do when no proper tool is available.
If needed, a tool for this can be made up using a small deep socket (small enough to go up inside the bolt body) and cutting out the notches to fit the firing pin spring collar.
EEK!
If the striker (firing pin) is tight in the cocking piece, you WILL shear the end of the striker off (ask me how I know) trying to hold it still in a vise.
Make the tool. Piece of steel brake pipe and a file is all that is needed. A Coleman naptha camp stove generator is also the perfect sized tubing.
Or a correctly sized deep socket and a grinding wheel.
Dimensions of the tool are to be found on the net. Literally a five minute job to make one when you know what you are doing.
On high mileage rifles, the threads on the end of the striker can get damaged and peened over making the striker a bear to remove. In this case screw the striker further IN and dress the threads at the very end of the striker, then screw out. Even when the striker starts to move, it can be tight all the way out to the last thread.
What often isn't realised is that the threads on the striker, and in the cocking piece are a very tight fit by design. There needs to be zero movement or play between striker and cocking piece, they need to be locked solid, and the striker straight as an arrow, otherwise trigger pull off can never be adjusted correctly. Hence, only remove the striker when you really must, don't want any wear to the threads. A brand new striker will actually need some torque effort to screw it into a brand new cocking piece, and torque effort to get it back out.
I have a home made tool and often bust it trying to budge a seized striker.
I just file the end of the tool flush and recut the profile and go at it again.
Eventually the tool will be too short, but have used mine ten years already.
If the striker (firing pin) is tight in the cocking piece, you WILL shear the end of the striker off (ask me how I know) trying to hold it still in a vise.
Make the tool. Piece of steel brake pipe and a file is all that is needed. A Coleman naptha camp stove generator is also the perfect sized tubing.
Or a correctly sized deep socket and a grinding wheel.
Dimensions of the tool are to be found on the net. Literally a five minute job to make one when you know what you are doing.
On high mileage rifles, the threads on the end of the striker can get damaged and peened over making the striker a bear to remove. In this case screw the striker further IN and dress the threads at the very end of the striker, then screw out. Even when the striker starts to move, it can be tight all the way out to the last thread.
What often isn't realised is that the threads on the striker, and in the cocking piece are a very tight fit by design. There needs to be zero movement or play between striker and cocking piece, they need to be locked solid, and the striker straight as an arrow, otherwise trigger pull off can never be adjusted correctly. Hence, only remove the striker when you really must, don't want any wear to the threads. A brand new striker will actually need some torque effort to screw it into a brand new cocking piece, and torque effort to get it back out.
I have a home made tool and often bust it trying to budge a seized striker.
I just file the end of the tool flush and recut the profile and go at it again.
Eventually the tool will be too short, but have used mine ten years already.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
I saved these pics of another forum members homemade tool, although I can't remember who originally posted the pics originally.
- Location
- WMU247 near Edmonton
the first one I made I ended up sheerign off the fingers on a really tight fireing pin.
the second one I left the sidewalls thicker when I drilled out a grade 8 bolt so the fingers have a bit more meat on them and it works fine.
sticking the fireing pin in the vice.... not something I would ever do.
the second one I left the sidewalls thicker when I drilled out a grade 8 bolt so the fingers have a bit more meat on them and it works fine.
sticking the fireing pin in the vice.... not something I would ever do.
Right. See post #3 above. Tool still for sale on EE, still on page 2, for now.
Looks nifty and compact. I think that I will buy one.
All I did was I went down to my local metal supermarkets and got a piece of metal tubing about the same od as the I.D of the bolt and with enough wall thickness to give the fingers enough meat but not too much as to interfere with the tip of the pin then I drilled a hole through one end of the tube to fit a bar or other small piece of metal then I took a dremel and roughed out the fingers, finished them with a file then hardened them and quenched it in oil then tempered at about 425f in the oven for an hr and they haven't sheared off yet.
there's also this drawing I found that I used to make mine if you want a bit more accuracy
there's also this drawing I found that I used to make mine if you want a bit more accuracy
