Light bullets - for moose?
- Thread starter popcan
- Start date
todbartell said:
Yes, sir ma'am!
I will start handloading..... I swear! .... but I need to wait till I get the house built at the lake next spring, and sell the house on the coast and buy down. Then I can start thinking about it.
I'll get you to come down from the far north and give me a few pointers!
By the way, I'm also thinking about taking a moose with my 12g.... what do you think about that!
There's a really "moosey" spot I know of that is made for CQB - it's covered in thousands of marshy willows and thick forest all around. Lucky to get a 75 yd shot anywhere. How much more meat will be ruined by a 12g slug?
It boils down to penetration. In a smaller calibre, 150 gr still gives you a 'long, thin' bullet that will impact, mushroom, and keep going in the direction it started in. Mostly
You've got all the bullets energy being applied to a smaller front.If you get into 'short' bullets, where they're not as long (which is what sectional density measures), they may not perform quite as well. This is ESPECIALLY true as you increase velocity.
So for penetration and keeping the bullet together (and not tumbling or breaking up or something) it's important to have a fairly high sectional density - in other words - the bullet should be fairly long for any given calibre. In a 30 cal, 150 grain gives you a pretty stubby bullet most of the time.
(note - there ARE exceptions as mentioned - some bullets like the barnes x are much higher in sectional density than normal for any given weight. So a 150 grain x bullet in 30 cal will have a sectional density similar to a regular 165 grain bullet).
You have to consider where you are hunting and when. If you are hunting in the Yukon, Northern B.C. etc, during the rut, then you could be calling in some very large moose. For that you would want a minimum 180gr bullet. If you handload then you could also go to a 200gr or 220gr, particularly if it is a hunt during the rut; the shot distances should be 75 yards or less (when calling in bulls).
If you get a shot at a big bull make sure of the shot angle. It's real easy to hit heavy bone and fail to reach the vitals, when using a lightweight bullet, and personally, I consider the .30 cal. 180gr light for moose. If you're going to use a 180gr then handload a PREMIUM bullet. Start with the Nosler Partition; other options would be Speer Grand Slam, Nosler Accubond or Barnes TSX.
I quit hunting moose with my .30-06 back in '88, when I hit a large bull with admittedly a marginal shoot angle. I was fortunate to kill the bull the next day , and then I made sure of my shot. After the post mortem examination I realized the .30-06 is marginal against large bulls, unless the shot is placed just right and I bought a .338WM and I have hunted with it since*. In my opinion the .338WM is the ideal moose caliber (with 250gr bullets).
On the other hand lots of guys get moose draws in the farming areas of central Alberta, and the majority of the bulls these guys are hunting are "bullwinkles", only 2-3 years old. I don't think there would be much of an issue shooting the 150gr or 165gr bullet in that situation. Just hit 'em with a broadside, double lung shot.
Edit:
I also meant to say that if you're hunting late season moose then you're likely to be hunting cutblocks and then shot distances could be longer. You would also be much more likely to be taking 200 yard shots. I think the 165gr or 180gr bullets would work then.
Also it is a myth that the 150gr bullet has an edge in long range trajectory. Ballistically the .30 cal 165gr (boattail) is the optimum wieght for long range shooting, but generally, moose hunting isn't about long range shooting anyway.
*In 2006 I used a .416RM
If you get a shot at a big bull make sure of the shot angle. It's real easy to hit heavy bone and fail to reach the vitals, when using a lightweight bullet, and personally, I consider the .30 cal. 180gr light for moose. If you're going to use a 180gr then handload a PREMIUM bullet. Start with the Nosler Partition; other options would be Speer Grand Slam, Nosler Accubond or Barnes TSX.
I quit hunting moose with my .30-06 back in '88, when I hit a large bull with admittedly a marginal shoot angle. I was fortunate to kill the bull the next day , and then I made sure of my shot. After the post mortem examination I realized the .30-06 is marginal against large bulls, unless the shot is placed just right and I bought a .338WM and I have hunted with it since*. In my opinion the .338WM is the ideal moose caliber (with 250gr bullets).
On the other hand lots of guys get moose draws in the farming areas of central Alberta, and the majority of the bulls these guys are hunting are "bullwinkles", only 2-3 years old. I don't think there would be much of an issue shooting the 150gr or 165gr bullet in that situation. Just hit 'em with a broadside, double lung shot.
Edit:
I also meant to say that if you're hunting late season moose then you're likely to be hunting cutblocks and then shot distances could be longer. You would also be much more likely to be taking 200 yard shots. I think the 165gr or 180gr bullets would work then.
Also it is a myth that the 150gr bullet has an edge in long range trajectory. Ballistically the .30 cal 165gr (boattail) is the optimum wieght for long range shooting, but generally, moose hunting isn't about long range shooting anyway.
*In 2006 I used a .416RM
Last edited:
death-junky
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Moose Jaw SK
I just use 180 gr bullets for my hunting. I have only used 308 cal and i think there is no real need for anything smaller.
ttyal
Riley
ttyal
Riley
placement of projectile is always the important aspect of shooting game. you can put 250 grain noslers through the spleen of a bull moose and he will lead you on a wild goose chase. Put a 140 grain Partition from a 270 or 6.5x55 into his lungs/heart and you better have a strong back as you'll be packing moose meat for a few hours.
a bad shot is a bad shot
a bad shot is a bad shot
cariboo_kid
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- South Cariboo, BC
Warren, it's really not a big deal to start reloading, certainly not financially. Just pick one of your firearms and start with that. Do the Lee kit routine, and you can sell it later if you find you prefer high end gear.
You spend quite a bit on good factory ammo, you could certainly save enough on one rifle to pay for the kit in less than a year.
Ask Otto to help work up a load with/for you, and you can start by learning to make that load yourself. Then go from there...
You spend quite a bit on good factory ammo, you could certainly save enough on one rifle to pay for the kit in less than a year.
Ask Otto to help work up a load with/for you, and you can start by learning to make that load yourself. Then go from there...
cariboo_kid said:Warren, it's really not a big deal to start reloading, certainly not financially. Just pick one of your firearms and start with that. Do the Lee kit routine, and you can sell it later if you find you prefer high end gear.
It's not that it's a big deal to get into it, except that right now time is at a premium with everything I've got going on .... and I want a suitable space to do it in, which is hopefully in the works in the new chateau.
Demonical said:
One could easily interpret this comment as a marginal or poorly placed shot should only be taken with the larger rifles capable of shooting larger bullets as this would compensate for any miscalculations in the heat of the hunt.
A poorly placed shot or even a low percentage shot does not discriminate between a light caliber and a heavy caliber.
I have killed moose straight on and full broadside or quartering and not on small moose. My largest was a 54.5 inch that weighed close to 1000 lbs dressed. All with a .270 winchester using 140BTSP. Placing the bullet properly is the key to efficient killing. In order to be efficeint your set up must be accurate and your confidence with the rifle and knowledge of anatomy high. Flinging lead at fur is not effective... with any rifle... large or small.
In NFLD, the dirty 30 is still running rampant and killing as many moose as it used to.
Albeit a bad choice if you are looking for high energy and long range, bullet placement (which in my mind partially speaks to the shooters ability) is the key.Like Demnical said, a 30-06 at a bad angle can lead to a night of no sleep, but that can be said for any size bullet that clips a lung or a liver
I have a buddy that uses a 6mm for everything. It sure looks like a tiny bullet for moose, but his shots have resulted in a freezer full everytime.
I don't use a 180 in my .308 (rather 165's) because I have it my mind that I am going to lose too much down range punch at 275 - 300 yds. I've come to the conclusion that no matter what I lose or gain by using the 165 or 180's that if the bullet hits the furnace with the right energy, the too light or too heavy discussion is moot.
Time at the range is what I need if I'm going to change bullet weights.
Stupid question , do .30 cal 150's come in a boattail?
Albeit a bad choice if you are looking for high energy and long range, bullet placement (which in my mind partially speaks to the shooters ability) is the key.Like Demnical said, a 30-06 at a bad angle can lead to a night of no sleep, but that can be said for any size bullet that clips a lung or a liver
I have a buddy that uses a 6mm for everything. It sure looks like a tiny bullet for moose, but his shots have resulted in a freezer full everytime.
I don't use a 180 in my .308 (rather 165's) because I have it my mind that I am going to lose too much down range punch at 275 - 300 yds. I've come to the conclusion that no matter what I lose or gain by using the 165 or 180's that if the bullet hits the furnace with the right energy, the too light or too heavy discussion is moot.
Time at the range is what I need if I'm going to change bullet weights.
Stupid question , do .30 cal 150's come in a boattail?
Last edited:
I've shot quite a few moose(at least 8) with( mostly) 139 grain Hornadys(the same reload that I use for whitetails) in my 280 Remington . As others have said , careful shot placement is the key.
Before that I used 180 grain Silvertips in a couple of 30-06s to kill a lot of moose and deer .
The 280 Remington (a 7mm bullet in a 30-06 case) kills just as good ( if not better)than the old standby 30-06 .
I've had quite a few so-called "bang-flops" with the 280.....depends on where you hit them...but most animals were shot through the lungs .
I hand load my 280 to an accurate but fairly fast 3000'/s which approaches storebought 7 mm magnum speeds.
Before that I used 180 grain Silvertips in a couple of 30-06s to kill a lot of moose and deer .
The 280 Remington (a 7mm bullet in a 30-06 case) kills just as good ( if not better)than the old standby 30-06 .
I've had quite a few so-called "bang-flops" with the 280.....depends on where you hit them...but most animals were shot through the lungs .
I hand load my 280 to an accurate but fairly fast 3000'/s which approaches storebought 7 mm magnum speeds.
powder burner
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta, Canada
.308 with 150's will work. Just know where to hit em, and dont take any foolish shots. My father has taken many with the 150 winchesters in his .308 BLR over the years.
Now go get yerself a moose boy!
Now go get yerself a moose boy!
