freddyfour
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Brant County, Ontario
Very cool test, thanks for taking the time and effort.maybe should have put it in sporting arms forum so no one gets offened.
Linseed Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, and Tung. Head to Head Test!
- Thread starter jimenez
- Start date
Final UPDATE:
So cut all the blocks in half and found some interesting things.
The linseed penentrated about a 16th of an inch, and in a few of the veins in the grain all the way through.
The BLO penentrated a 32nd on an inch and traveled a bit with the grain but half as far.
The Tung showed no real evidence of penentration in the cross section
So i guess that combined with the water test shows that the yes linseed does go deeper, potentially protecting the wood from swelling and rot, and BLO seems to seal the surfaceof the wood.
Interesting stuff, thanks for watching.
So cut all the blocks in half and found some interesting things.
The linseed penentrated about a 16th of an inch, and in a few of the veins in the grain all the way through.
The BLO penentrated a 32nd on an inch and traveled a bit with the grain but half as far.
The Tung showed no real evidence of penentration in the cross section
So i guess that combined with the water test shows that the yes linseed does go deeper, potentially protecting the wood from swelling and rot, and BLO seems to seal the surfaceof the wood.
Interesting stuff, thanks for watching.
Go raw or go home eh?
Bravo sir! Your effort is note worthy as it entails far more work than cutting & pasting. Personally, I have a problem believing anybody that does not show solid testing data to quantify their conclusions esp when they make no sense or are based in dogma as opposed to independent testing.
Biged51, I know you are trying to help but those C&P masterpieces lack all the documentation that supports their conclusions. Would you happen to have said documentation? I would love to see it. I have concerns about many of the things you have posted & am wondering if you could please attempt to calm my mind.
1 You claim to have cleaned all the RAW (Why is raw capitalized anyway?) linseed oil out of your stock & made the rifle shoot worse by virtue of the said stock shrinking. How did you do this? I can barely get cosmo out & you managed to remove a polymerized oil from wood! I can see maybe getting the surface clean but you sucked it so dry the wood shrank. I am impressed if true. Also, I have never heard of oil swelling wood. Do you have any documentation that shows oil's wood swelling properties? It makes sense that it may control swelling (From water absorption)in dry wood but how in the name of all things linseed does oil swell wood?
2 Military use is not an endorsement of suitability. There are many reasons that a product is chosen for use by the military & performance is usually not at the top of the list. Two of the most damaging factors are cost & occasional rigid thinking among the "powers that be" in a given epoch. Cost is self explanatory and there is no shortage of examples of rigid military thinking. Cartridge cut off anyone? The old "Better minds than you have decided that this is best & by Gawd that the way you are going to do it" doesn't cut the mustard 'round these parts.
3 Armorer's are a product of the organization that produced them. Said armorers are victims of supply chain & chain of command. What would you have liked them to dip their stocks in if all they had was a hot vat of linseed? Butter perhaps? Would you be willing to risk censure by your superiors by trying something else? Again, not exactly an endorsement of suitability for the task at hand.
4 What worked best in 1914 may not be what works best in 2014. Time for more testing I say.
I applaud the OP's efforts to bring us a hands-on comparison of the various finishes available to the milsurp crowd. Bravo Zulu, my good man!
Now ( ...and not to hijack the thread by any means) I wish he might have also included the so-called "Teak Oil" which I have been using for maybe 30 years now on all my natural wood stocks ( except commercial sporters with a lacquer or urethane finish on them).
The last can I bought was from "Canadienne Pneu" donkeys years ago, but it was made in Toronto by a firm that still exists in the US, apparently.
Now this stuff does dry ( eventually) like BLO, and seems to have it's own NATO Stock Number, but for what purpose? Weapons? Equipment? Who knows?
My cousin uses it on his teak yacht wood, but he told me it's not really "teak oil" but a weirdo chemical concoction and has no real teak oil in it at all.
Anyways, just my 2 cents on the subject, and was also wondering if anyone else out there uses this stuff... it doesn't seem to hurt the wood any, but doesn't seen to be heard of or mentioned at all amongst the firearm crowd.
Now ( ...and not to hijack the thread by any means) I wish he might have also included the so-called "Teak Oil" which I have been using for maybe 30 years now on all my natural wood stocks ( except commercial sporters with a lacquer or urethane finish on them).
The last can I bought was from "Canadienne Pneu" donkeys years ago, but it was made in Toronto by a firm that still exists in the US, apparently.
Now this stuff does dry ( eventually) like BLO, and seems to have it's own NATO Stock Number, but for what purpose? Weapons? Equipment? Who knows?
My cousin uses it on his teak yacht wood, but he told me it's not really "teak oil" but a weirdo chemical concoction and has no real teak oil in it at all.
Anyways, just my 2 cents on the subject, and was also wondering if anyone else out there uses this stuff... it doesn't seem to hurt the wood any, but doesn't seen to be heard of or mentioned at all amongst the firearm crowd.
Another update to my final update...
Looked at the cut blocks again today and found more interesting things.
The Linseed oiled blocks cut face has re-oiled it self.. The oil from the surface has bled onto the fresh face of the cut side from the outside inwards. The face has a darkened ring on the edge about a 1/4 inch thick with the center of the face fresh wood (looks like a medium rare steak crossection)
The BLO block has done the same thing, however not nearly to the same extent. The tung block is unchanged.
I could guess that this could be be atributed to the fact that the raw lindseed is much slower to polymerize then the BLO by design and the tung oil polymerizes so fast that its no longer an oil, and therefore could not bleed. Self healing oil finish? Cool.
Looked at the cut blocks again today and found more interesting things.
The Linseed oiled blocks cut face has re-oiled it self.. The oil from the surface has bled onto the fresh face of the cut side from the outside inwards. The face has a darkened ring on the edge about a 1/4 inch thick with the center of the face fresh wood (looks like a medium rare steak crossection)
The BLO block has done the same thing, however not nearly to the same extent. The tung block is unchanged.
I could guess that this could be be atributed to the fact that the raw lindseed is much slower to polymerize then the BLO by design and the tung oil polymerizes so fast that its no longer an oil, and therefore could not bleed. Self healing oil finish? Cool.
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Uber cool!
infideleggwelder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
spray easy off on the wood and you will be astonished at how much brown crap comes out and how many applications you will need to get all the oil out. don`t believe it? try it for your self.
Thanks jimenez and absolutely everyone who added in. I meant to catch this months ago, but the progression of it as of now made for a very interesting read.
I have some more educated guesses and factual learning gained by this short, well sort of long for me to read; but not that much to take in with the amount of information all in one place here. Thanks again!
I have some more educated guesses and factual learning gained by this short, well sort of long for me to read; but not that much to take in with the amount of information all in one place here. Thanks again!
