The OP is planning on shooting at 300 yards only.Between 308 and 6.5 creed, the Creedmoor is alot easier to get alot of different loads, and factory ammo to stay supersonic past a thousand yards.
Less drift, less recoil, very easy to tune a load with the creed, as others have stated. I currently own 3 - 6.5 creedmoors, and 2 - 308's. Have had more through the years, but fell in love with the Creedmoor in 2012 before most people knew what it was. Long before all the internet jokes and memes about it.
Pick either or if you reload, but make sure its a 1-10 twist rate 308 if your planning on a thousand yards, not sure what that s20 twist rate is. It just makes it a bit easier. Good luck, and let us know what you pick.
Sorry about that, I must have misread something there then.The OP is planning on shooting at 300 yards only.
A .223 is the best bet there , not only for hand loading cost but form cheap factory ammo as well.
Cat
Cheap isn't always good, though, and best accuracy might not involve a case of 55gr AR fodder. Pay attention to barrel twist rate and bullet weight and a chart of which goes with what, because there's a real spectrum in .223 and it's not a just-match-the-headstamp calibre.The OP is planning on shooting at 300 yards only.
A .223 is the best bet there , not only for hand loading cost but form cheap factory ammo as well.
Cat
All of my .223's ( 1:9, 1:8, 1:7, 1:6.5 twists) shoot cheap 55 grain ammo well enough out to 600 meters that a completely green shooter can make solid hits out to 600 meters with no problem off the bench with a Leupold AR 3-9x scope .Cheap isn't always good, though, and best accuracy might not involve a case of 55gr AR fodder. Pay attention to barrel twist rate and bullet weight and a chart of which goes with what, because there's a real spectrum in .223 and it's not a just-match-the-headstamp calibre.
And as with other calibres, quality ammunition makes a world of difference.
This is not true. ALL barrels will exhibit fire cracking in the throat over time, regardless of being abused or not. The only way to determine if a barrel has been abused is to compare the length of the throat against the number of rounds through the barrel. Abusing a barrel simply accelerates the throat wear. There is no obvious sign of an abused bolt action barrel.a used rifle will be a 'good deal' only if you can inspect the Chamber/Bore with a bore-scope to look for 'fire-cracking' - a symptom of Abuse by Over-Heating, shooting too much too fast.
Bore scopes are the devil and likely have annoyed more gunsmiths than any other implement. Newbies and the inexperienced should not be bore scoping rifle barrels. It just leads to no good. The only thing that really matters is how well a barrel shoots and a borescope can't tell you that.A Teslong bore-scope is a good $100-ish investment for proper 'rifle bore care'. Just Learn what to look for and DON'T be 'Over Concerned' by what you see - the scope Will Magnify ALL scratches inside there !
Save all your brass for the day you start reloading. With reloading, another option is to make friends with a local reloader, and that person shows you the ropes. Then you know what you’re in for.![]()
I just got one of these in the mail today. It’s a bit more geared towards hunting, but it’s alot of scope for the price.
I know it requires reloading but I absolutely LOVE my 6BR.
The 6BR is effortlessly accurate, super easy to load for, super fun to shoot with very low recoil. A super accurate rifle is just plain fun.