Long term metal protection experiment follow up

LSB said:
I have a spray can of Jig-A-Loo that I can lend you as a contribution to your efforts. I will drop it at Kate for you and pick it up later after your are done. THX
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Cool, just mark the can for identification and I will return it after treating a strip, If it could be there by say the end of September, I'll have it back by the end of October.
 
TedNugent said:
Is the inside of your barrel blued?

I bet Fluid film would win most tests, something I didn't realize:
"Today, FLUID FILM has probed the depths of the sea and space, being effectively utilized by nuclear submarines to its exclusive use on the space shuttle."
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Good question, if it was the 5K+ rounds that went through it before it broke probably wore it off.
 
I have a product that will protect against rust long term but am not sure what effect it has on finishes. Currently i have a rusty old SXS that has been covered in it for 2 months.
It is the most effective rust remover I have ever seen, but unsure of the effect on blueing or parkerized finishes.
As soon as I clean up the gun I will post pics.
It's an expensive product ,my original testing is for rust removal, for storage it is likely better than any of the general products but cost prohibitive.
I am interested in seeing further results from your tests.
 
Galt said:
I have a product that will protect against rust long term but am not sure what effect it has on finishes. Currently i have a rusty old SXS that has been covered in it for 2 months.
It is the most effective rust remover I have ever seen, but unsure of the effect on blueing or parkerized finishes.
As soon as I clean up the gun I will post pics.
It's an expensive product ,my original testing is for rust removal, for storage it is likely better than any of the general products but cost prohibitive.
I am interested in seeing further results from your tests.
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I thought anything that would remove rust would remove parkerizing/bluing
 
Do you have shortening in your list? It's the cheapest grease that one can find, and it's easy to melt to protect the inside of a barrel. You can also mix it with canola or peanut oil to adjust the consistency to your liking, so if it works, it would be the cheapest, safest and easiest stuff to work with.
 
VinnyQC said:
Do you have shortening in your list? It's the cheapest grease that one can find, and it's easy to melt to protect the inside of a barrel. You can also mix it with canola or peanut oil to adjust the consistency to your liking, so if it works, it would be the cheapest, safest and easiest stuff to work with.
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It is now, thanks.:cheers:
 
How about ACF-50?

...I wonder about the vacuum sealing product. It clearly let moisture in over the course of a winter
 
Odd Shot said:
How about ACF-50?

...I wonder about the vacuum sealing product. It clearly let moisture in over the course of a winter
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Not necessarily. The moisture is probably trapped in during the sealing process. The seal is made at a temperature higher than what he stores the iron, so whatever air is left inside the sealed pack becomes relatively more humid when the temperature drops. At that point, unless there's something to trap the humidity, it'll be there. It might even condense and make actual water. I suggested desiccant to trap humidity, but beans or rice would work fine too. He doesn't want to go that route, gotta respect that.

In any case, for long term storage, even with 0% humidity there would be corrosion. The only way to protect iron from oxydoreduction is to either reduce the oxygen content or use a sacrificial anode. Zinc is commonly used, so few zinc-covered nails in contact with the iron would get oxydized instead of the iron AND consume most of the remaining oxygen. But that's not what OP wants to test, and he's nice enough to do all the work and share his results, so...

Anyone knows what kind of oil the use for rust protection for cars? One would think it would be a good product. When I get my car done, it smells like popcorn for a week, but I have no clue what kind of oil they use for popcorn either.
 
I would be interested in coating one of the metal strips in Cerakote. I am interested in how it would fare in a non lab test. I can provide my contact info if you are willing to send me a strip. I will pay for the shipping if you like.
 
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Have you thought about sealing parts in a Mylar bag to see if it stands up better than the vac seal bags? Or maybe vac seal bag and then sealed in a Mylar bag? Maybe add a silica pack into the bag as well.
 
TedNugent said:
Is the inside of your barrel blued?
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No but the outside sure is. I bet a product like WD40 might fade or damage the bluing. I'd hate to be the guy that uses the WD40 because it is cheap and easy to find. Store all my firearms to find out 10 years later they are ruined.
 
Cerakote B.C. said:
I would be interested in coating one of the metal strips in Cerakote. I am interested in how it would fare in a non lab test. I can provide my contact info if you are willing to send me a strip. I will pay for the shipping if you like.
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Sure, why not. Send me a PM and we'll work out the details.
 
FreedomIsn'tFree said:
Have you thought about sealing parts in a Mylar bag to see if it stands up better than the vac seal bags? Or maybe vac seal bag and then sealed in a Mylar bag? Maybe add a silica pack into the bag as well.
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I have but in the interests of consistency, I will use the same type of bag and sealer as before. Any change to that starts to get outside the parameters of the test as the primary purpose is to find the best metal coating as opposed to the best packaging. (but I might end up trying some Mylar ones anyway just because you've aroused my curiosity)
 
Riggseven said:
No but the outside sure is. I bet a product like WD40 might fade or damage the bluing. I'd hate to be the guy that uses the WD40 because it is cheap and easy to find. Store all my firearms to find out 10 years later they are ruined.
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WD-40 was a fail and I won\t be using it on anything that matters.
 
As an update the six original strips were cleaned and degreased, then given a flash coat of clear lacquer and are now at Ammosupply.ca's Calgary pick up location if anyone wants to see and touch them for themselves.
In cleaning them a good deal of the corrosion on "B" the WD-40 strip did come off but there is still some visible.
 
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