Looking for my first revolver

Does it really have a nicer trigger?

Something else to factor into the equation now.

Every time You are changing something with the cylinder - by adding more feeding holes (like 10 shots on model 617 vs 6 shots with the older ones), making it bigger or lighter...You are also changing the dynamics of the trigger pull. For me the old, six shot wheelgun - especially the K frame has the nicest trigger pull out of all the S&W revolvers that I tried.
 
Last edited:
You might want to et us know what you intend to do with the revolver. Compete? Plink? If yuo intend to compete check out the rules of the sport you want to shoot. No sense buying a gun that doesn't meet the sports rules. If to plink, a .22 will do that and shooting will be a lot less expensive.

Take Care

Bob

I do plan on eventually looking at the 22 revolvers for plinking. All ill be doing is shooting targets and cans. But I still want a full powered hand gun. I like how it shoots 38 special and .357. Not basing my decision on ammo costs. More on " I want a cool looking revolver that's accurate and I want to master it". Does that make sense? It does in my mind. I've tried a 44 magnum and that was a bit much for the amount I want to shoot. I went to Poenix indoor range yesterday and took out their .357. Two boxes of 38 special and half a box of .357 later, I'm in love.
 
More on " I want a cool looking revolver that's accurate and I want to master it". Does that make sense? .
Makes perfect sense to me! I only own 1 revolver now and don't shoot it much but when I do I can shoot it more accurately than my semi's. I believe the design of the revolver just makes them "easily accurrate" as long as you do your part.
A cool looking revolver is purely up to your tastes. I like both S&W and Rugers. Cosmetically the S&W's are "prettier" while the Ruger's are more "robust" with a no-nonsense look...imo.
Stainless vs Blued is also personal preference and I'm starting to come around to stainless revolvers. Barrel length also gives it the "look".
If I had to choose one....it would be a 4.2" stainless Ruger(I may be biased). Tough as nails and over-built regardless that is also less $$.
Here's mine....4.2" Ruger Redhawk .44mag. I don't say this often about my "tools" but this one is a keeper!
DSCN0935.jpg
[/IMG]
DSCN0941.jpg
[/IMG]
DSCN0938.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Last edited:
Every time You are changing something with the cylinder - by adding more feeding holes (like 10 shots on model 617 vs 6 shots with the older ones), making it bigger or lighter...You are also changing the dynamics of the trigger pull. For me the old, six shot wheelgun - especially the K frame has the nicest trigger pull out of all the S&W revolvers that I tried.

Nestor...I kinda get this but will adding 10-holes also change the long term integrity and reliability of the revolver?
I ask because I'm in the market for a SA revolver and looking at the Ruger Single Ten vs Single Six. Main use is paper punching at the range.
 
Nice looking revolver johNTO. I'm not ruling the Ruger out yet. The issue is that no one has any in stock. Ideally I'd like to go to a gunshop that has both and hold each of them. Whatever one would feel "right" is what I'd get.
 
I have a question for all you 38special/.357 owners. My buddy was telling me that sometimes if you feed your .357 a regular diet of 38 special, you can get some carbon scoring because the casing is shorter than the .357. Is this a big issue? I plan on shooting 80% 38special and the rest .357.

Because I plan on reloading, he suggested only getting .357 brass and load some with .357 power and some with .38 power. Does anyone do this? Thoughts?
 
Nice looking revolver johNTO. I'm not ruling the Ruger out yet. The issue is that no one has any in stock. Ideally I'd like to go to a gunshop that has both and hold each of them. Whatever one would feel "right" is what I'd get.

There's probably a very good reason for this:)
I see you're in Edmonton....too bad cause Target Sports ususally has both the 686 and GP100(stainless & blue) in the show case.
When you do get a chance to hand both (store/range) you can usually find them lighty used on the EE for a fair price if you're patient.
Good luck....revolvers are simple and awesome!
 
I have a question for all you 38special/.357 owners. My buddy was telling me that sometimes if you feed your .357 a regular diet of 38 special, you can get some carbon scoring because the casing is shorter than the .357. Is this a big issue? I plan on shooting 80% 38special and the rest .357.

Because I plan on reloading, he suggested only getting .357 brass and load some with .357 power and some with .38 power. Does anyone do this? Thoughts?

I won't say "scoring" but rather a build up that my cause the longer .357 casing from being inserted smoothly. But you'll be brushing out the cylinders and performing normal cleaning after the range anyway....right? No big deal...imo.
I don't reload so can't help you there.
 
Nestor...I kinda get this but will adding 10-holes also change the long term integrity and reliability of the revolver?
I ask because I'm in the market for a SA revolver and looking at the Ruger Single Ten vs Single Six. Main use is paper punching at the range.

To be perfectly honest I never owned 7,8 or 10 holes revolver long enough to answer your question, but my best guess would be "no".
It should be as reliable as the standard revolver IMO.
My only concern would be the glory hole aka lock on the newer S&W revolvers.
Especially the ones built on the light frame - there were problems reported by the owners - these guns may lock themselves up during live fire.
 
I have a question for all you 38special/.357 owners. My buddy was telling me that sometimes if you feed your .357 a regular diet of 38 special, you can get some carbon scoring because the casing is shorter than the .357. Is this a big issue? I plan on shooting 80% 38special and the rest .357.

Because I plan on reloading, he suggested only getting .357 brass and load some with .357 power and some with .38 power. Does anyone do this? Thoughts?

Clean your revolver - carbon build up after extensive use of 38 Special may increase pressure inside the cylinder once You decide to switch for 357.
Final result MAY be not too good for the firearm and the owner. However if You keep your gun clean, it won't be the problem.
 
To be perfectly honest I never owned 7,8 or 10 holes revolver long enough to answer your question, but my best guess would be "no".
It should be as reliable as the standard revolver IMO.
My only concern would be the glory hole aka lock on the newer S&W revolvers.
Especially the ones built on the light frame - there were problems reported by the owners - these guns may lock themselves up during live fire.

Thanks for the info, Nestor. Appears this "lock-up" may be an issue with the newer DA .22lr revolvers with more than 6-holes due to the dirty .22lr round(?).
I'll have to research more if this is an issue with the SA revolvers.
 
Merry Christmas to all

Keep your eye out for an old S&W's at your lgs. Usually priced reasonably, great quality and shoot very well. My newest revolver was born in 1978, a Model 28 and my most recent purchase of a K 22 Masterpiece Post War, Pre Model 17, born in 1951 were bought for under a $1000 for the pair.
 
I here all the time that 38 spc. shot in a 357 will cause carbon problems. Well I for one have never saw it. I am not saying it won't happen just that I have never saw it. Clean the gun when you come home from the range end of problems.

As to loading 357 down to 38 special levels I do that all the time with not one ill affect. They work just fine that way.

As to the ten shot revolvers I have them and have had them. I have had the Ruger single ten and I have the S&w 617 in 10 shot. I sold the Ruger as once you are used to a double action (loading and unloading) is a real pain, at least for me it is. Also the S&W guns are so much nicer to look at and use then the Ruger guns are. Remember guys this is just my option and yes I have used them a lot so I am not just talking out of my hat here.

Anytime I take a new shooter to the range and let them use one of my Rugers and also a S&W they prefer the S&W everytime and just want to use that gun for the rest of the day.

As to problems with the ten shot guns I have read about them but never had any issues myself but I also read about problems with the 6 shot guns to.

Graydog
 
357 in smith or ruger gp100 and you will probably keep it forever! I have both a smith and a ruger, you will not be dissatisfied!
 
Hmmm, is it just me or is this an extremely good price?

Smith & Wesson 686, Stainless/Rubber Grips, 6" 357 Mag 775.00 NEW

That sounds like a fair price for a new one. Personally, I found the full underlug on my 5" 686 a little nose heavy and I didn't take to the looks of it....jmo
 
If you take a look at "Tradex", they have a few Model 14 Smith and Wesson's right now. Probably one of the finest .38 Special revolvers ever made, accurate, hand tuned and lovely to shoot. If you don't need a .357 right now, I would consider one of these for under $ 600.00.

Scott
 
I do plan on eventually looking at the 22 revolvers for plinking. All ill be doing is shooting targets and cans. But I still want a full powered hand gun. I like how it shoots 38 special and .357. Not basing my decision on ammo costs. More on " I want a cool looking revolver that's accurate and I want to master it". Does that make sense? It does in my mind. I've tried a 44 magnum and that was a bit much for the amount I want to shoot. I went to Poenix indoor range yesterday and took out their .357. Two boxes of 38 special and half a box of .357 later, I'm in love.

You can shoot .44Special in a .44Magnum, just like .38Special/.357Magnum. .44Special ammo is less common (and I'm sure proportionally more expensive than .38) but you'll probably get into reloading if you mean to shoot your handguns enough to feel .44Magnum is "a bit much" and you can reload .44Magnum cases to .44Special levels, as suggested already for .38/.357.. So if you like the idea otherwise, don't be put off the bigger gun.
 
Back
Top Bottom