Looking for precision 10/22 build advice

OOOOOh the rabbit hole. Just be careful, because once you build one and see how fun and fulfilling it is you just want to keep going and trying new configurations. The $1500 is going to be tough though.

Once I started, it was a quick spiral down with no end in sight. I have tried way to many combinations to start listing them all.

The Tuff22 receiver it an awesome place to start. Compatible 25 round mags is bonus to a great receiver. The rail, you can get the cant rings, or just get the flat top and angled rail from them. If you time things correctly I would pair it with the dlask carbon barrel, as they are out of stock often. They will press them together for you if purchased together. I think dlask uses green mountain blanks for their work.

Then start pricing the rest out, and you can get most of it from dlask. Don't hesitate to email them and see timing for more barrels in and other parts is out of stock.

The BX triggers are okay at best, for the $$. I used to take mine apart and polish up all the mating/ working surfaces to stay on the cheaper side and that seemed to make things smoother. But in the end nothing compares to the kidd triggers.

Same thing with all the bolt, and receiver surfaces. 1000 grit and some sweat to polish up mating surfaces always made things smoother in all the receivers I've tried. The nitride comp bolt from VQ is nice and you don't need to touch it at all and use it as is.

The stocks are a personal flavor when it comes down to function and use.

Keep us posted on the final build. Will be interesting to see where you go with it.
 
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wallz said:
OOOOOh the rabbit hole. Just be careful, because once you build one and see how fun and fulfilling it is you just want to keep going and trying new configurations. The $1500 is going to be tough though.

Once I started, it was a quick spiral down with no end in sight. I have tried way to many combinations to start listing them all.

The Tuff22 receiver it an awesome place to start. Compatible 25 round mags is bonus to a great receiver. The rail, you can get the cant rings, or just get the flat top and angled rail from them. If you time things correctly I would pair it with the dlask carbon barrel, as they are out of stock often. They will press them together for you if purchased together. I think dlask uses green mountain blanks for their work.

Then start pricing the rest out, and you can get most of it from dlask. Don't hesitate to email them and see timing for more barrels in and other parts is out of stock.

The BX triggers are okay at best, for the $$. I used to take mine apart and polish up all the mating/ working surfaces to stay on the cheaper side and that seemed to make things smoother. But in the end nothing compares to the kidd triggers.

Same thing with all the bolt, and receiver surfaces. 1000 grit and some sweat to polish up mating surfaces always made things smoother in all the receivers I've tried. The nitride comp bolt from VQ is nice and you don't need to touch it at all and use it as is.

The stocks are a personal flavor when it comes down to function and use.

Keep us posted on the final build. Will be interesting to see where you go with it.
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I love rabbit holes haha I think I spend half of my life going down them😂. I probably hit my head too many times as a kid or something. Do you know if dlask ever has any sales? I don’t mind being patient looking for a deal. It definitely seems like the tuf 22 is the way to go! I’ll be alright with the bx trigger for the first iteration of the rifle but I’m sure it’ll get upgraded later on down the road. Will probably wait for an mdt sale for a stock or maybe buy a magpul until then.
 
Maybe the odd 10% sale, but not often enough to bank on it. As it is they have a hard time to keep any stock.

Me, I didn't like the magpul stock at all. Just too "plasticky" for me, if that is even a word.
 
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wallz said:
Maybe the odd 10% sale, but not often enough to bank on it. As it is they have a hard time to keep any stock.

Me, I didn't like the magpul stock at all. Just too "plasticky" for me, if that is even a word.
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Fair enough, I’ve never been a huge fan of them either, I don’t really understand the draw to them on shotguns like my beretta but some people swear by them. It seems like the cheapest decent options are between the magpul and the hogue for the 10/22. Either or would likely only be temporary.
 
DLask, KIDD, and don’t forget Volquartsen. They make some nice stuff and have some unique options that are based on the 10/22 but not exactly. I am kind of in the same boat but for my it will probably be a DLask takedown with an 8” barrel, probably Magpul Backpacker and a red dot.
 
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C10 said:
Fair enough, I’ve never been a huge fan of them either, I don’t really understand the draw to them on shotguns like my beretta but some people swear by them. It seems like the cheapest decent options are between the magpul and the hogue for the 10/22. Either or would likely only be temporary.
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Victor Company Titan22 stock is ok and not terribly expensive
 
Have a really good look at Dlask. I started with the10/22 game with their DAR22. Very accurate rifle, then decided that I wanted a better barrel, which is Kidd. Dlask receiver and rest of rifle is Kidd. I have 2 accurate rifles now.

My friend has a ruger target , laminated stock model. My DAR22 is more accurate. Really not much price difference.

It's a rabbit hole like others have pointed out. Lots of options out there for many components.
 
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I have two 10/22 rifles. #1 is basically for speed steel with the Timney trigger (not the Calvin) set at around three pounds. The sight is a RedDot.
#2 has a Dlask 0.920 barrel and is used in 100 Metre Rimfire. The KIDD trigger kit is around 2 3/4 pounds with the lightest spring. No effort has been made to work on this further. This rifle scope combination could easily be a "Gopher Gun"! as it requires more work and testing of ammunition to become competitive. It does show more promise using the higher velocity obtained with Eley Biathlon ammunition.
The back of both receivers are drilled with a 1/4" hole however I used a flashlight to determine a suitable position to drill then a little guesstimate was close enough. Cleaning is not a priority as the rifles will tell me when it is time to clean but a pull-through get most of the crud out the muzzle rather than in to the action.
 
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Biggest issue with 10/22 accuracy is the single mounting bolt, and the poor fitment of the reciever in the stock.

I slapped mine in a boyds pro varmint stock. I could see alot of sunlight thru the reciever and stock gaps. Then could see the action rocking in. Groups tightened up once I bedded it.
 
Answer your email here. From the perspective of an accurate PRS rifle that shoot with the bolt rifles out to 400yds. There are many points of view... and this is just one. Based on many projects for myself and customers over many years. YMMV

Ammo, I am starting here because for those that understand rimfire performance, they know ammo will make or break the result. With a semi, it is even more important cause you are dealing with 2 tunes - barrel and function. variations in the ammo will cause more issues.. why it is really hard for a semi to consistently beat a bolt in pure accuracy, but it can get close. From now on, all is based on the use of Lapua CENTER X. If you are an Eley fan, Match is the point of entry. Higher grades are a good thing but gains tend to be smaller vs a bolt. lot testing is paramount but you get the idea as nothing here is new.

Of course, billions of rds of everything else is fired and much will make the rifle function BUT... does it group? Usually not. If someone has some custom super duper 10/22 but complains that it doesn't shoot, ask what type of ammo they are using. GIGO is far more pronounced in a semi.

Actions: I have built my rifles from factory actions dating back to the 70's and 80s and just after covid. Did it really matter? No. The receiver spec has stayed pretty much constant since inception. Biggest changes include a new mag (kind of) and trigger assembly (plastic vs alum). Exterior finish also varies from durable/nice (older) to utter crap (newer). Where you see the biggest differences is reliable function due to a couple of parts.

Extractor is the weakest part, easily swapped out and related problems go away. New actions seem to have this addressed. Firing pins can and will eventually wear out as will the springs. Again, simple to change. For springs, I have stayed with Ruger factory and parts with KIDD or VQ (whatever is available... add Tandemkross if you can find them)

For those that have the desire and means to get custom receiver and aftermarket parts, know that appearance is the biggest reason to get this stuff. If they are 10/22 drop in compatible, then they are made to factory dimensions and spec. If mixing and matching from various brands, keep on eye on reliable function. Of the rifles I have had to 'fix' over the years, incompatible parts was the biggest reason. I said the SPEC hasn't changed but that doesn't mean QC hasn't, and you can definitely get variations in all parts of the receiver (yes, factory receivers do vary a bit and some bolts just don't fit). Function test properly and it is easily resolved.

Headspace: The factory spec is 0.043" (std SAAMI spec)... larger very bad. Check with a depth micrometer. For the vast majority of match and HV ammo, this is what works best. for Eley, I would definitely test the 42 or even a 41 depth but know, that other ammos may not work well. If concerned about how square a bolt face is, just look at the wear pattern on the bolt and barrel. I have not seen one that was uneven or that didn't sit flat... YMMV.
 
Barrels: most quality, lapped, air gauged barrels offered will work and offer similar performance. The lead bullet just isn't that worried about the bore and isn't that precisely made/formed anyways. I strongly recommend barrels be threaded for a tuner and suggest the 5/8-24 thread

Length: 18" as a min... 22" as a max.

Chamber: now this is a rabbit hole. For me, I would look for a shorter length so that the bullet bands are nearly/just engraved/engaged with the rifling. A tapering throat vs a sharp angled throat can be beneficial. The chamber width stays closer to sporter spec to ensure function is 100%... always a compromise.

Tenon: been down the oversized route and except for being a PITA to assemble, it really wasn't different in performance. And that test used the same barrel... tenon was adjusted but all else kept the same. I would just stick with the factory spec tenon dimension but if worried, just a hint of loctite is simple insurance (and a pita down the road).

Bedding is the most overlooked need in a 10/22. When done properly, the single bolt mounting is sufficient. Rear bolt, clamp, cross bolt are all good concepts and if going custom, definitely look for that secondary support. When bedded properly, the receiver and barrel cannot move under normal use... but will come out of the stock like a factory rifle.

Stock: Whatever floats your boat. I have competed with a modified promag dlx target and it has put me on numerous podiums. Fit to the shooter is everything and as long as you have good control of the rifle, its all good.

Rotating safety: This is one of my fave upgrades and turned a clunky prs rifle to a gem. I am running a unit from Tandemkross and will never go back to the cross bolt safety.

Triggers: I have tuned the factory parts. Lots of aftermarket. Just use reputable stuff that is well tested.

Trigger housing: plastic vs alum. I prefer alum but the plastic factory stuff hasn't let me down yet.

Function testing: If going to use a factory 10/22 as a donor, do the machine gun test to ensure all parts work 100%. a mag of 10rds (good quality HV ammo) is fired as fast as you can pull the trigger. Repeat at least 5 times.... better if you have more then 1 mag. Only accept a donor that is 100% in function (proper lubing is of course needed). A 10/22 receiver to spec will run 100% until it fouls out or runs out of lube.

When you get the match barrel you want installed, chamber check the match ammo running from the mag and extracting. make sure the nose of the bullet is not damaged. There should be zero contact from the mag and out of the chamber... yes, a 10/22 is controlled rd feed. Fix if scored, shaved or in any way deformed.

These are what I consider the main things to deal with before worrying about much else. Peak accuracy may need a tuner and set up is no different then a bolt rifle.

Enjoy

Jerry
 
That rotating safety sounds very PRS, where you're constantly flipping it and yelling "SAFE!" to the RO as you change positions. In another discipline where you only tap it once at the start or for plinking without touching the safety at all you won't notice the big difference.
 
Mysticprecision said:
Barrels: most quality, lapped, air gauged barrels offered will work and offer similar performance. The lead bullet just isn't that worried about the bore and isn't that precisely made/formed anyways. I strongly recommend barrels be threaded for a tuner and suggest the 5/8-24 thread

Length: 18" as a min... 22" as a max.

Chamber: now this is a rabbit hole. For me, I would look for a shorter length so that the bullet bands are nearly/just engraved/engaged with the rifling. A tapering throat vs a sharp angled throat can be beneficial. The chamber width stays closer to sporter spec to ensure function is 100%... always a compromise.

Tenon: been down the oversized route and except for being a PITA to assemble, it really wasn't different in performance. And that test used the same barrel... tenon was adjusted but all else kept the same. I would just stick with the factory spec tenon dimension but if worried, just a hint of loctite is simple insurance (and a pita down the road).

Bedding is the most overlooked need in a 10/22. When done properly, the single bolt mounting is sufficient. Rear bolt, clamp, cross bolt are all good concepts and if going custom, definitely look for that secondary support. When bedded properly, the receiver and barrel cannot move under normal use... but will come out of the stock like a factory rifle.

Stock: Whatever floats your boat. I have competed with a modified promag dlx target and it has put me on numerous podiums. Fit to the shooter is everything and as long as you have good control of the rifle, its all good.

Rotating safety: This is one of my fave upgrades and turned a clunky prs rifle to a gem. I am running a unit from Tandemkross and will never go back to the cross bolt safety.

Triggers: I have tuned the factory parts. Lots of aftermarket. Just use reputable stuff that is well tested.

Trigger housing: plastic vs alum. I prefer alum but the plastic factory stuff hasn't let me down yet.

Function testing: If going to use a factory 10/22 as a donor, do the machine gun test to ensure all parts work 100%. a mag of 10rds (good quality HV ammo) is fired as fast as you can pull the trigger. Repeat at least 5 times.... better if you have more then 1 mag. Only accept a donor that is 100% in function (proper lubing is of course needed). A 10/22 receiver to spec will run 100% until it fouls out or runs out of lube.

When you get the match barrel you want installed, chamber check the match ammo running from the mag and extracting. make sure the nose of the bullet is not damaged. There should be zero contact from the mag and out of the chamber... yes, a 10/22 is controlled rd feed. Fix if scored, shaved or in any way deformed.

These are what I consider the main things to deal with before worrying about much else. Peak accuracy may need a tuner and set up is no different then a bolt rifle.

Enjoy

Jerry
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That was an awesome write up! Thanks a lot!
 
Longstud said:
You want accurate? The only thing Ruger is the magazines!! This will destroy anything Ruger makes, easily. Take everything with a grain of salt you are advised on here. Its a very costly rabbit hole. PM for the easiest route or contact Jerry at Mystic Precision.View attachment 882061View attachment 882072
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just out of sheer curiosity, is it cheaper to build your rifle or just go and find a Kidd supergrade on gunbroker?
 
barsik said:
just out of sheer curiosity, is it cheaper to build your rifle or just go and find a Kidd supergrade on gunbroker?
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Building your own allows parts of your choosing! Buying complete is probably the same but you get everything from that company. I have things I prefer made by different manufacturers so I build with what has proven itself to me. Kidd triggers and barrels, Volquartsen competition bolt, Dlask receiver made from T7075 billet aluminum. Cheers
 
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