lubing your new AR

What is with all the G96 love? Is it the nice smell? The price? It works ok for a quick wipe down as a rust preventative but, isn't a very good lubricant imo.

I have been using Mil-comm products for years now(TW25B mostly but, MC2500 when I need a lower viscosity). It works great and is the choice of several top manufacturers and many countries militaries around the world for a reason. Give it a try, it's good stuff.
 
What is with all the G96 love? Is it the nice smell? The price? It works ok for a quick wipe down as a rust preventative but, isn't a very good lubricant imo.

I have been using Mil-comm products for years now(TW25B mostly but, MC2500 when I need a lower viscosity). It works great and is the choice of several top manufacturers and many countries militaries around the world for a reason. Give it a try, it's good stuff.

I would agree. G96 is decent for cleaning; excellent for protecting; and not great for lubing. Do you use TW25B on your AR's? I use it on my handgun rails.
 
BreakFree CLP: not saying its the best but been using this for 17 years with no reasons to use something else.

Keep the bolt face, chamber and barrel clean and dry, anything metal on metal (bolt carrier and bolt carrier components) with a thin film of lubricant and blast away.
 
I would agree. G96 is decent for cleaning; excellent for protecting; and not great for lubing. Do you use TW25B on your AR's? I use it on my handgun rails.

I only used it on my handguns too originally but, decided to try it on other things and just as I thought it works great. My new Stag 10 receiver set was degreased with Mil-comm MC25 and then greased/oiled with a combination of TW25B and MC2500 once built. I haven't shot it a lot yet but, it cycles butter smooth and runs like a top. Any firearm I have tried it on runs great and it definitely lowers wear over other products I have tried.
 
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Ballistol for cleaning/lube/storage and white lithium grease on bolt carrier group/charging handle on the wear parts. This combination has always worked great for me with no issues in heavy use all day matches and practices in a variety of weather conditions.
 
Mobil 1 Synthetic is all you need for lube.

All the fancy stuff is pointless and expensive.

Personally, I use G96 aerosol. It’s easy and it smells good.

Ballistol is fine too.

And the bolt group is the only part you need to lube.

what he said. I use whatever brand synthetic 5-30 motor oil it never breaks down, its cost effective a liter will last a lifetime. all the other frog lub and whatever else is hype as far as im concerned. except for balistol. I do like it for BP rifles
 
Mobil 1 , 0W 20 or any other synthetic motor oil will work and for what you will pay for a litre of the stuff, it will last a long long time. Stay away from that mouthwash stuff they call Frog Lube. If you don't believe me put some froglube in the freezer over night and try using it the next day.
 
Another vote for Mobil 1. I apply it liberally to all BCG parts and the inside of the upper receiver. Synthetic grease to the trigger sear parts and a drop of CLP to all the parts with pins, ie takedown pins, trigger pin, bolt release, safety, ect.
 
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engine oil works until you get your gun wet. Then the lube foams up making your gun look like a rabid skunk. Users of Frog lube, search out "Soy lube 100" it is the same thing and much cheaper.

Synthetic ATF cut with paint thinner to your desired consistency works as well as anything I have found. G96 works well but is pricey.
 
I have a Wingham AR when first purchased I lubed it with Rem oil 50 rds through and it was getting sticky and bolt would not close.Like the CGN,er above mentioned above Mobil 1 Synthetic works great I used it and it never happened again.Good Luck
 
Been using motor oil for over 30 years in AR15. Right now DMO 15-40 for summer months. synthetic for winter but sparingly. I use to shoot alot 400+ each range trip
 
I do not use motor oil different molecular structure and adhesion properties, but if you must keep a few things in mind.

For "non-synthetic" motor oil, the traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees F. "Which can be exceeded easily", for "full synthetic" motor oil, maximum can exceed 300 degrees.
 
If you are interested, I found these somewhere on the Interweb:

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Cool! Ty for the post!
 
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