He was talking about the 858s going up from their original $600 price tag. He never made reference to the 958's price being over $1,000.
Bingo
He was talking about the 858s going up from their original $600 price tag. He never made reference to the 958's price being over $1,000.
Paid my last crates at 225$ each in November, refuse to pay close to 400$ for russian corro surplus
West rifle just bought a new shipment of x39 and is selling it for $370+tax. Wait until the old supply dries up and those deals will be hard to find.
$1800 usd to accurize an m305? How?!
You don't need a JAE or chassis to get one of those puppies accurate. A few hours on YouTube to learn how to strip the rifle and peen/loctite the op rod guide, $60 on a new op rod spring guide and spring, $150 on a usgi stock if you must and you're looking good. Barrel indexing and gas system unitizing aren't a must-have, but can be done with a bit of ingenuity.
new barrel is $300-$450 USD,
bolt to match is $300 USD
OP ROd $220 USD
GAS system $130-200
Trigger mech $270- $300 (if you can even find one, you might have to build one from individual parts) if the norc housing is ok... $70 to rebuild
Rear Site $120
Main spring and guide $60
New stock $150
New flash suppressor and castle nut $100 (the tack welds don't always break off without damaging it... and most of the norc ones are funky anyways now)
Misc screws/shims $30
Gun smithing to ream the new chamber and set proper head space $400 (. the chamber does not come fully cut to allow for proper indexing and head spacing, and no you can't do this yourself unless you buy a special set of tools, The reamer and gauges are worth more then just paying a gun smith)
it had nothing to do with making it accurate those are just stock parts nothing NM grade other then the spring guide... it had to do with replacing things that came broken or unusable or failed in short order.
I spent a few hundred bucks on other things before I replaced a lot of these parts so realy the whole process cost me closer to $2500 (+ rifle) at the end.
buy a CZ958 or a 858... be much better
And none of that you really need, except the rear sights and op rod guide. maybe.
That was all on the same gun???
You do have some luck...
Yeah saw that...
Lets just say that I'm glad I bought cheap and stacked deep![]()
op rod was bent... and causing issues. I don't bend op rods back, its bad practise in my mind as it just makes it weaker and more prone to failure
gas tube was out of spec and let the piston jam sideways enough to make it fail a tilt test most of the time. pluss it kept banging out and after shimming it was good for maybe 50 rounds before needing new shims.
Barrel was over indexed and chamber cut to match
Bolt was banging out and had allowed the gun to go 12 thou over 7.62 field gauge in one range trip causing case head cracks (which could have resulted in a catastrophic kaboom)
the sear failed and the gun went full auto and required replacing almost all the guts on the triger group to fix... that was on the first range trip
Rear site came stripped and no matter how much lock tight I used it kept hopping about because there realy wasn't any threading left
lost the flash suppressor to the force required to break the spot welds (i was at it for over 2 hours before I gave up and just took a grinder to it, near the end I was hitting it hard enough the bayonet lug broke off) when I took it off and that's kinda required for a front site.
Stock was a POS that had a slight twist in it.
Needed all the misc little parts that fit USGI but not norc for all the new bits.
so what on that list did that gun not need?




























