M1 Garand issue and good gunsmith

Put your rear sight together and take a pic in it's lowest setting for us...maybe it's not going all the way down. Front sight height seems fine.
Only other thing is your sight picture, you are using a 6 o'clock hold and not putting the front sight over the target right?
 
If you watch a vid of someone Firing a M1 Garand

if you watch the ejection pattern of the brass some of the brass will hit the oprod hump and get dented

Rem Core-Lokt 30-06 Springfield
27826
Bullet Weight: 150
Muzzle Velocity: 2910
Bullet Style: Core-Lokt Pointed Soft Point
Ballistic Coefficient: .314

top velocity for m1 147/ 150g ammo should be 2700 fps ........ it will also function with lower velocity ammo

So your ammo is too Fast /hot and shooting lots of it is not advised per internet wisdom
 
HarveyDeRoy said:
Front sight is .7 295

Rear sight picture
https://ibb.co/9pjFj0C

I loaded a round and extracted it without issue. Small scratch shoulder
Click to expand...

The front sight height is fine. Does the aperture run down to bottom against the top of the receiver? As I mentioned earlier, setting the aperture 8-12 clicks up from the bottom should give you a proper zero when using a 6 o'clock hold.

Is the rear sight assembly tight? To check this run the aperture up 20 clicks from bottom and press it down with the thumb. It shouldn't move down under thumb pressure.

If the aperture is bottomed out and the rifle still shoots high, I'd try a different aperture and maybe a different rear sight base. Those are the only 2 variables to check after establishing that front sight height is correct. There are non-military reproductions of these 2 parts which may not meet MILSPEC dimensions.
 
Is the rear sight USGI? I have seen Chinese parts with the aperture drilled obviously off center.

Two feet high at 100y represents a zero for perhaps 800y. That much elevation should be obvious just looking at the rear sight.
 
Lots of great info posted here by some pretty knowledgeable guys. Your answer is in there somewhere. As stated earlier...
Learn about 6 o'clock hold,
Take a picture for us with the sight assembled and all the way down (your aperture is a standard one, not a NM by the way..)
Check all parts are USGI
Follow the instructions in Purple's last post
 
Brutus said:
You need to get rid of that 150 grain Core Lokt 30-06.
It's at least 125 fps too fast.
If you look up NRA recommended handloads for the Garand you will understand friend.
That's probably the #1 reason your brass is beat up.
Click to expand...


Start there. Don't rely on your adjustable gas plug - they 'somewhat mitigate' the pressure issues commercial .30-06 has with the M1 but don't 100% fix it.

Either learn to handload for it or use the Federal factory stuff that is designed for the correct M1 pressures.

If you are shooting 2 feet high... that is flat out weird. Your front sight is in spec, check the gas tube - someone may have trimmed filed down the dovetail for some odd reason.

Hot ammo should not give you 2' high

someone mentioned that your 200m zero should be turn the rear sight all the way down then 10 or 12 clicks up ... you should have tons of room in there... I wonder if it is possible to assemble the rear sight wrong so that you don't get the full range of elevation?

If the gas tube and rear sight check out - I would guess muzzle/crown damage. noting that it is weird for muzzle/crown to consistently throw up.

Don't file or cut anything. these guns were designed to have interchangeable parts with out need for fitting.

If nothing works out - sell/trade your rear sight and gas tube. swap em out and try again.

Beat up brass may sort itself with correct ammo - I wouldn't worry about a small dent, as long as they are not smashed right in...
 
What do your groups look like on paper? Any vertical stringing? If you run the aperture up to 50 clicks from botton and press down on the top of the aperture does it move down from the thumb pressure? Sometimes the screw in the windage knob isn't tight enough. To tighten it , grip the exterior of the windage knob in a padded plier and tighten the screw with a well fitting screwdriver.

Lastly, is the stock a tight fit when the trigger guard is closed? You should feel resistance when the back of the trigger guard passes the trigger. All of these questions assume that your rifle is still shooting too high as originally described.
 
Since you put this puppy together from parts, it's possible that your stock inletting needs to be checked for putting improper pressure on the barrel and/or oprod. Here's and article that maybe of use for you to check this out: h ttps://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/archive/index.php/t-1002662.html
 
So, I sent it to Nick at Vulcan... Here is what he had to say

Good Day.
Are we talking about the same Garand? You Shot this one?
I can't see how it would even Shoot.
The Headspace is not even able to allow the Bolt to fully close. The Chamber needs more Reaming.
The Barrel is out of Time, meaning the Front sight isn't even straight up. It's tilted a little. Might explain why it's shooting low.
The Gas Cylinder is worn out, I'm surprised it would even Cycle. We have the proper Gauge to Measure the Bore and it swallows the Gauge. Reminds me of Linda Lovelace. Needs new one.
This "7.62 MM" marked Op Rod has had an extension put on so it will work in a 30-06 Rifle but we're not sure how that 1/2" extension was attached. Looks like it would blow off. Looks like it was pressed on. Should be Welded on.
Missing the lower Band Pin.
Wouldn't Test Fire it until the Headspace is corrected. Then we can Test Fire to confirm good Operation.
Assuming that it will function OK once Headspace/Reaming is done

So I had him fix it all. When it gets here, I'll head to the range and let you guys know how it went... I have this weird feeling its gonna be perfect now!
 
Thanks for the follow up. That gun sounds like it was dangerous, firing without the bolt fully closing. Cobbled together. At a bare minimum, these surplus guns need head space checked.
 
Quite a few Garands have been cobbled together by DIY gun plumbers, so beware. The best technical reference on the Garand is the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual. It can help diagnose a lot of problems. Problems aren't self-correcting.
 
HarveyDeRoy said:
So, I sent it to Nick at Vulcan... Here is what he had to say

Good Day.
Are we talking about the same Garand? You Shot this one?
I can't see how it would even Shoot.
The Headspace is not even able to allow the Bolt to fully close. The Chamber needs more Reaming.
The Barrel is out of Time, meaning the Front sight isn't even straight up. It's tilted a little. Might explain why it's shooting low.
The Gas Cylinder is worn out, I'm surprised it would even Cycle. We have the proper Gauge to Measure the Bore and it swallows the Gauge. Reminds me of Linda Lovelace. Needs new one.
This "7.62 MM" marked Op Rod has had an extension put on so it will work in a 30-06 Rifle but we're not sure how that 1/2" extension was attached. Looks like it would blow off. Looks like it was pressed on. Should be Welded on.
Missing the lower Band Pin.
Wouldn't Test Fire it until the Headspace is corrected. Then we can Test Fire to confirm good Operation.
Assuming that it will function OK once Headspace/Reaming is done

So I had him fix it all. When it gets here, I'll head to the range and let you guys know how it went... I have this weird feeling its gonna be perfect now!
Click to expand...

This is a great synopses of what Canadian M1 Garand builders have to keep in mind. Many of the Op-Rods in Canada are the T2 Garand length (1/2" short) from all the Danish guns imported into Canada. So you really need to focus on either building a T2 Garand, or a USGI standard M1 Garand. I really stayed away from the extended short op-rods I have seen. They kind of concerned me about reliability. The stock, barrel and op-rod all need to be from the same length gun. And of course, the barrel has to be installed correctly. Correctly timed and reamed.
 
Andronicus said:
This is a great synopses of what Canadian M1 Garand builders have to keep in mind. Many of the Op-Rods in Canada are the T2 Garand length (1/2" short) from all the Danish guns imported into Canada. So you really need to focus on either building a T2 Garand, or a USGI standard M1 Garand. I really stayed away from the extended short op-rods I have seen. They kind of concerned me about reliability. The stock, barrel and op-rod all need to be from the same length gun. And of course, the barrel has to be installed correctly. Correctly timed and reamed.
Click to expand...
I honestly just wanted a M1 Garand and did not have the budget at the time to buy one for 2k+$. I did not know much about M1's and just made sure i had .30-06 everything. Now i know, and would do alot of buying/choices very differently if not just getting a complete rifle.
 
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