M14s 2500rd Review and a DIY Mod-Stock walk through
- Thread starter xURSOx
- Start date
It's a little tricky, but still possible.
To unlatch the trigger guard
I have a bunch of the original op rod spring guides so I took one and made a few bends in it. I insert it in the hole from the side and pry sideways abit to unlatch the trigger guard as mine is pretty stiff to unlatch . After its unlatched the trigger guard swings forward with lots of room to clear the butt stock adapter. Installing the trigger mechanism is the same as on a normal stock .
I have a bunch of the original op rod spring guides so I took one and made a few bends in it. I insert it in the hole from the side and pry sideways abit to unlatch the trigger guard as mine is pretty stiff to unlatch . After its unlatched the trigger guard swings forward with lots of room to clear the butt stock adapter. Installing the trigger mechanism is the same as on a normal stock .
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SFRC sells the NEA 870 buttstock adapter and it comes with a pistol grip $89.95
http://www.theammosource.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_288_292&products_id=934
http://www.theammosource.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_288_292&products_id=934
This system really lightens up the load of the original synthetic stock. Depending on what stock options you go with, the rifle should be lighter than before.
To unlatch the trigger guard
I have a bunch of the original op rod spring guides so I took one and made a few bends in it. I insert it in the hole from the side and pry sideways abit to unlatch the trigger guard as mine is pretty stiff to unlatch . After its unlatched the trigger guard swings forward with lots of room to clear the butt stock adapter. Installing the trigger mechanism is the same as on a normal stock .
Great idea! I will try this myself
I picked up a couple pieces of 1.25in x 1.25in aluminum today and cut it to 15mm thickness . I shaped the top edge at an angle to be sure the bolt didn't contact it .
But I believe it may not have been necessary as it seems to have lots of clearance for the bolt when the block is 1.25 in x 1.25 in.
Here is a view from the trigger housing showing the amount of bolt clearance with the beveled edge
Now I just have to epoxy the block in place and apply the Loctite to the bolt threads.
The rifle is 1/2 lb lighter than in the original configuration but the point of balance has moved forward as the metal buttplate on the original stock is quite heavy.
The length of the rifle with the butt stock collapsed is 35.75 in
Thanks again for posting this xURSOx
But I believe it may not have been necessary as it seems to have lots of clearance for the bolt when the block is 1.25 in x 1.25 in.
Here is a view from the trigger housing showing the amount of bolt clearance with the beveled edge
Now I just have to epoxy the block in place and apply the Loctite to the bolt threads.
The rifle is 1/2 lb lighter than in the original configuration but the point of balance has moved forward as the metal buttplate on the original stock is quite heavy.
The length of the rifle with the butt stock collapsed is 35.75 in
Thanks again for posting this xURSOx
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If the stock has an area where you could install a wood or aluminum block, I couldn't see why not!
DaveMachine
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I think i should try this...
It should be a tight enough fit on its own. You should have to tap the block in with a rubber mallet.
Well I was able to get to my build this week. After a couple of days in my companies shop (they have a bandsaw and the piece of steel needed) I cut my stock and thought I had it cut on the right angle. After getting home I put it together and saw that it was out by more than 3mm measuring the front and back of the buffer tube 
Easy to see in the pic when compared to the final product.
So this morning I hit the stock with a file. It took some time to get the angle right. Having to file a bit, them remove to see how much more was needed. After an hour or so I got it close enough to call it good (.3mm out overall from the front to the back of the tube)
I bit of 246 red locktite to make the bolt solid and we'll call it a day.
Thanks for the tutorial xURSOx!!! I like this set up way better than the regular stock.
Easy to see in the pic when compared to the final product.
So this morning I hit the stock with a file. It took some time to get the angle right. Having to file a bit, them remove to see how much more was needed. After an hour or so I got it close enough to call it good (.3mm out overall from the front to the back of the tube)
I bit of 246 red locktite to make the bolt solid and we'll call it a day.
Thanks for the tutorial xURSOx!!! I like this set up way better than the regular stock.
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Looks good I get my parts for my conversion this week!
Well I was able to get to my build this week. After a couple of days in my companies shop (they have a bandsaw and the piece of steel needed) I cut my stock and thought I had it cut on the right angle. After getting home I put it together and saw that it was out by more than 3mm measuring the front and back of the buffer tube
So this morning I hit the stock with a file. It took some time to get the angle right. Having to file a bit, them remove to see how much more was needed. After an hour or so I got it close enough to call it good (.3mm out overall from the front to the back of the tube)
I bit of 246 red locktite to make the bolt solid and we'll call it a day.
Thanks for the tutorial xURSOx!!! I like this set up way better than the regular stock.
