M305 trigger
- Thread starter Niko-PG
- Start date
Gently smooth the parkerizing with emery cloth without changing the angles or simply shoot it ensuring that you keep it well greased and it will smooth out over time.
That's the cheapest way (and safe way to do it your self). As for who to send it to there's Valley gunsmithing and Epps. Since you're in P.G. you could see if Gunnar could do it.
That's the cheapest way (and safe way to do it your self). As for who to send it to there's Valley gunsmithing and Epps. Since you're in P.G. you could see if Gunnar could do it.
i did mine by replacing the hammer spring & a little polishing, now my
trigger pull is down to 3 lb. from about 6 lb.
cost about $12 for the spring & a little time.
but it has not in prove my grouping. still shooting about 3 inches at 100m
Northman999
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Yukon
Where did you get your hammer spring? I'd like to do this to mine.
with just a rod change !! But I really want to do something with the trigger.
I'm going to let SEI perform their M14 Sniper/Designated Marksman 4.5 lb trigger conversion
with S-7 trigger and hammer axis pins P/N M14#4.5TC on to of my ChiCom trigger groups.
Only the pins and spring will be replaced. I have USGI TRW groups with this conversion and they are awesome.
with S-7 trigger and hammer axis pins P/N M14#4.5TC on to of my ChiCom trigger groups.
Only the pins and spring will be replaced. I have USGI TRW groups with this conversion and they are awesome.
M14 triggers could use smoothing up by applying grease between the hammer hooks... look into the interior where the sear engages the inside hooks.
Pull off your trigger group and examine how the 2 stage trigger lets go, you will see the bearing surfaces where the grease goes.
Most people want a lighter pull for their accuracy needs. My suggestion ? Buy a Savage with the AccuTrigger or an M700 with the XMark trigger and leave you M14 trigger ALONE !! Well grease it anyways.
The heat treating is only 2 thou thick. Any stoning will remove it and next thing you know, you've got a fully automatic trigger group doubling on you like there's no tomorrow.
Be safe.
Pull off your trigger group and examine how the 2 stage trigger lets go, you will see the bearing surfaces where the grease goes.
Most people want a lighter pull for their accuracy needs. My suggestion ? Buy a Savage with the AccuTrigger or an M700 with the XMark trigger and leave you M14 trigger ALONE !! Well grease it anyways.
The heat treating is only 2 thou thick. Any stoning will remove it and next thing you know, you've got a fully automatic trigger group doubling on you like there's no tomorrow.
Be safe.
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
what about just simply removing the park/phosphating on it? I was toying with tossing the parts into my brass tumbler for a day to polish it up
.002" hardening........what kind of half asses hardening is that!
I doubt it even reached a hardening temp, much less a proper duration in or before the maturation chamber ( I assume they temper )
Probably a freaken good idea to re-harden the crap your self.......you would get a lot further if you did that your self- IMO
cya
That's what I did to mine and a buddies Nork, no metal removal, and then just kept it well greased. it felt better after that and smoothed out more as I fired it. I didn't measured the pull before and after.
WHAT HUNGRY SAID ...
if you want a 2 lb trigger, get a bolt action.
I've done a few trigger jobs on the M14 rifles, and as a matter of fact, I'll be doing a couple more this weekend on two of the Chinee 14s I just picked up. while I am a BIG fan of doityourself, I certainly would not recommend this as a doityourself project.
If you DON'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER EASILY, and really want to try it yourself, at the least invest your time into a genuine US GI trigger and sear, and GI hammer, which will have much better metal and geometry to start with. Better yet, get three of each ... you may need them. SEI makes very hard, slightly oversize aftermarket trigger and hammer pins for the M-14, and this would be the a good place to start. Most of the used Chinese, and some of the used GI trigger pins I've seen are worn out of round, undersized, and probably too soft. Hard to get a consistent trigger job if the trigger pin is any of the above.
After that,
the best advice I can give is that when the hammer starts following, or the rifle starts doubling when you don't hold it firmly, then you've gone too far.
This would be at about 4 1/2 lbs ...
anything lighter than that on the M-14 and you have passed the point of diminishing returns.
[;{(
LAZ 1
if you want a 2 lb trigger, get a bolt action.
I've done a few trigger jobs on the M14 rifles, and as a matter of fact, I'll be doing a couple more this weekend on two of the Chinee 14s I just picked up. while I am a BIG fan of doityourself, I certainly would not recommend this as a doityourself project.
If you DON'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER EASILY, and really want to try it yourself, at the least invest your time into a genuine US GI trigger and sear, and GI hammer, which will have much better metal and geometry to start with. Better yet, get three of each ... you may need them. SEI makes very hard, slightly oversize aftermarket trigger and hammer pins for the M-14, and this would be the a good place to start. Most of the used Chinese, and some of the used GI trigger pins I've seen are worn out of round, undersized, and probably too soft. Hard to get a consistent trigger job if the trigger pin is any of the above.
After that,
the best advice I can give is that when the hammer starts following, or the rifle starts doubling when you don't hold it firmly, then you've gone too far.
This would be at about 4 1/2 lbs ...
anything lighter than that on the M-14 and you have passed the point of diminishing returns.
[;{(
LAZ 1
Ishootguns
Regular
- Location
- Acton Ontario
The US Army manual is also talking about working on M-14 rifles of US manufactur not our friendly neighborhood Norcs. Metallurgy is an interesting thing.
Dave
Dave
The US Army also had an almost unlimited supply of parts at the time. That and annual inspections by the gunplumbers. When they had to stone a part for competition, it was no big deal to keep replacing it when it got worn. If it survived the match, that was likely good enough.
Ishootguns
Regular
- Location
- Acton Ontario
I have it on good authority that the parts the US Army was using for competition were all hand picked, worked over as stated in the book then rehardened so they did not have to replace parts after every match. Idealy once your rifle is bedded and everything is good and solidly assembled you don't pull it down until absolutely neccessary.This is why you keep a record of all shots taken so you can see when it needs to be pulled apart.
So if you are going to be doing things in the book to your rifle you need to take into consideration that if you change the metalurgy by stoning away the hardness you need to restore it before you shoot. If not you would be putting yourself into a possible jackpot.
Dave
So if you are going to be doing things in the book to your rifle you need to take into consideration that if you change the metalurgy by stoning away the hardness you need to restore it before you shoot. If not you would be putting yourself into a possible jackpot.
Dave
