Making a walnut Baikal buttstock

bobfortier

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Hi all

A client of mine wants a replacement stock for his Baikal O/U in 20 gauge. Like all Baikal, it has a factory twist. On my single shot it is like that also, but the hares I shoot don't see the difference, but if someone want to shoot clays, under recoil the barrel has a tendency to go left (for a right-hand shooter)


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My client wants also to modify the cheek rest so it is lower, he sent me a remington 870 youth outline as a reference

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Without the stock
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Selection of a walnut piece to fit the foreend
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Now for the trick of the day. I tried once to do a long hole when I first made a stock for my Lee Enfield, and I quickly found out that the drill bit follow the grain and that the result was bad. So here is how I do it. Once sanded you need very good eyes to see the glue line

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If there is interest I can post my progress as I go.
 
Uhh, looks like a cast-off stock for a right handed shooter....pretty normal.

I do that to my stocks - would be opposite way for a lefty - far more comfy, but does not seem to throw sideways.
 
Tonight, marking, making a reference hole, and getting ready for inletting

But first, can you see the glue line ? ?

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Marking the shape, connecting the dots

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One of the most important thing is to choose a reference point. Here it is this hole. I am marking everything from this centerline.

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More marking and making a reference hole

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Next I'll start the inletting of the action

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To be continued !
 
For those of you still interested, here is where I am. Inletting for a shotgun is a lot harder than for a bolt action. On a bolt action, you remove material on one surface until it sits, but on a shotgun you have to remove material a bit at a time all around the action so it sits perfectly all around, without any flat reference.

Here is my new best friend for this job, a small rasp from Lee Valley.

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And here is where I am tonight. It is a long series of putting anti-seize on steel, lowering action in wood, removing action in wood, and removing the material that touches the wood (I use the grey anti-seize as a marker)

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Finally !! After a lot of hours of work, more than 10 pipes of Sail brand pipe tobacco (the green pouch), I was able to get the fit I wanted. This is the longest part of shotgun stock making. Put some marker (grey anti-seize), lower action into wood, remove action, remove the grey spots with sand-paper and chisel and rasp. I'll let you judge the fit, I'm happy with it.

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And I also inletted the trigger guard

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To be continued...
 
That is great work! What would you differently up to this point, as it looks all down hill from here? Guys have been talking about duplicator builds months, tell us where the smoke shop is?
 
That is great work! What would you differently up to this point, as it looks all down hill from here? Guys have been talking about duplicator builds months, tell us where the smoke shop is?

Maybe it is just me, or the fact that English is not my first language, but I don't get a word of what you are saying...

I'd really like to answer the question, so if someone can translate, I,d appreciate.
 
This has been very informative.I have a single shot that needs a butt stock this will make alot easier thanks.English is my first langauge and i got some of johnsamp's reply
1. You have done a great job
2. What would you have differently if you had to do it again
3. Hard part is over will go easier from now on
4. Using duplicator jigs to build stocks
5. Where do you buy your pipe tobacco
Thanks Leroy
 
This has been very informative.I have a single shot that needs a butt stock this will make alot easier thanks.English is my first langauge and i got some of johnsamp's reply
1. You have done a great job
2. What would you have differently if you had to do it again
3. Hard part is over will go easier from now on
4. Using duplicator jigs to build stocks
5. Where do you buy your pipe tobacco
Thanks Leroy

Ah, thanks a lot !!

I would not do anything differently, as it is the second time I do a Baikal stock like this. Indeed the hardest/longest part is now done, the rest if shapping and sanding. I don't use duplicator because I do custom work, one stock at a time. The only time I did 3 stocks it took a while to sell them all.

Pipe tobacco was bought at the local gas station !
 
Bob, I just caught up with this report. You're doing a fine job. And I find it very enlightening to see the solutions you're using for the layout of the stock. I really like how you found a solid feature to use as a reference and how you incorporated that reference into the new stock.

I could see a specialty deep reach duplicator making the hogging out work of the action mortising a little quicker. But that would take a pretty fancy machine to do such work due to the depth of the cut and the need for a small ball end cutter to do the cutting. And due to the risk of tear out around the final edge you'd still want to stop with a little left and work down the final fit just as you did.

I've used thick applications of felt pen as a transfer dye. It worked but it wasn't all that good. I've also used leftover paint. I think I like the pen or paint more than the Never Seize just because I'm not risking any non drying oil being left on the wood. Any paint left on the metal after it's done is easily cleaned away with some acetone.

And to johnsamp asking about using a duplicator. How can he? He's not making a duplicate of the original stock shape other than the action mortising. The rest of the stock is now being done purely from a custom basis other than using the youth model stock as a guide for how to shape the drop and the comb. There's nothing to use for a master shape for the duplicator.
 
Maybe if I smoked bobfortiers' brand of tobacco, I could inlet a stock by hand in a weekend, and never have a need/want for a duplictor that would take months to build. Just complimenting your skills Mr bobfortiers.
 
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