Making my own woodset ?

louthepou said:
I may be too late for this comment (should have thought about it before) - could have been a good idea to do the forend first, then the handguards? Probably won't matter really - I think you're doing super fine, Bob!

Lou
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Thanks for the comment Lou. Main reason why I started with the hand guard is that I want to go to the range this weekend with the 303, and doing the forend requires me to dismantle the rifle. So I started with easy stuff. I'll go to the range this weekend, and after that I will start the forend. Once it will be done I might not have range time, I guess it will be closed, but I'll go on my dad's lot and fire it a bit.
 
I also have a sporter that i was thinking of making a custom stock, I was thinking of using insulation grade stiro foam and cut out a concept model and then use something to make a negative mold. because all the original iron sight have been knocked/cut off i am going to do somthing obviously custom otherwise id probably do what your doing.

Nice work, cant wait to see the finished result.
 
Good evening all !

I did a bit more on this project. The action fits into the wood, I only need to lower it a bit at a time, until it is bedded as best as I can.

Some pics of my square rifle !

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You know bob, if you left the forend just like that, I bet the recoil felt at the shoulder wouldn't be that bad! :D

Thanks for the progress report, that's pretty impressive work.

Lou
 
I hope you like to whittle. Some place in that piece of square walnut is a nice fore end.
Looks good so far. Keep us posted please.

There is a real market for stocks and fore ends for earlier Lee rifles. It could turn into a nice business for you.
 
bearhunter said:
There is a real market for stocks and fore ends for earlier Lee rifles. It could turn into a nice business for you.
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Well, probably not. I can live with some small defect once I'm going to be done with this, but I would feel bad to sell something not 100% perfect. It is all done with the chisel, except some hole with a press drill and fostner bits where I need some sort of precise flat surface.
 
It would just add character to already imperfect rifles. Most of the complaints I've heard about repro stocks, is that they're to perfect and don't suit the rifle. You may have stumbled onto something here.
 
This will be long...

Hey

I tought of something to see my progress while I'm trying to bed the action into the wood.....the good old, greasy, messy anti-seize ! I will probably hate myself when I'll wash it, but hey, nothing like a clear grey area to tell you where to remove wood !

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However, I don't seem to find why the action is not going down in the wood. I got a bit of grey, remove it, and I put it back in with a clamp, however some time there is no grey area, and I cannot find why it does not go down...any idea ?

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Yup, I got it. On my last pic, I think that the arrows point to the place where the barrel should rest. At least, it rested on my old stock. For now it is not even touching this spot, so I'm lowering around until it does...

SMLE5010.jpg
 
Maybe try bedding the suspect area (or rifle part) with a bit of modelling clay, plastiguage style. Works great for tinkering with cars why not inletting a stock?
 
This project is going to be time consuming but really interesting. I sure wish I had the skills and facilities to give this a try.
 
10x said:
I just purchased a No 4 stock (complete wood no metal) from Numrich for $65.00 US. I will see what it is like when it gets here.
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That's going to be the birch stock set. Make sure it's straight. and add $25 for Candian(International) orders + shipping
 
Just a quick note, I just want to tell a public "Thank you" to John Surey who sent me, for nothing, some parts and screws I did not have.

More pics to follow this weekend, I'm heading in the shop to work on this
 
Sweet looking project, I wish I had the set-up and skills for this sort of thing as I have about 4 rifles I'd like to make stocks for.
 
Here are the parts John sent me. The band screw, a stacking swivel, the small metal part in the front, and the nosecap screw. Thanks again !

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And here is what I've been doing tonight. Still need to level it down a bit, but I'm getting there

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