Marking your brass . . .

I use the magic marker technique as well. Fast and cheap. I use different colours for different batches/times fired so I can tell them apart.

You might want to use a colour other than black if you go the marker route. One time I shot beside a guy that had done the same thing with the black marker as I. He was merrily picking up my brass as well. When I pointed out that some of it was mine, he said his were all marked so he could tell which were his. I laughed as I told him my were marked the exact same way. Luckily I had all Fed. brass and he had Win., but I could have led to some hard feelings. I switched to colours and haven't looked back....
 
Why not? said:
Okay, looking for your report of success in the morning!

Ted
Click to expand...

:(
As per the pic, after well over 24 hours in a high concentration of lime-green koolaid, the brass is still brass coloured. It's really clean (thanks to the citric acid), but not the slightest bit green.

Back to a marker.

2007_0124_limeGreenBrass_0001.JPG
 
I use Sharpie marker too....color the primer only to identify the load, and, like Levi, index the side of the brass on the high point of non-concentricity. (Hey, c'mon, that sounds like I'm edgicated:dancingbanana: )

'Course, thats for rifle rounds, who cares how a handgun shoots.:D
 
I just make sure everyone sees me lick my rounds before I load them up.This has a double benefit, no one picks up my brass, and I don't have to worry about weirdos striking up a conversation.
Scott
 
Ok, in responce to joe-nwt's post on the first page
(I'd copy it here, but it's huge) about the many different
color finishes you can obtain with various chemical
combinations. .
Where the he11 is one suppose to aquire chem's like that ?

...WW
 
WithoutWarning said:
Ok, in responce to joe-nwt's post on the first page
(I'd copy it here, but it's huge) about the many different
color finishes you can obtain with various chemical
combinations. .
Where the he11 is one suppose to aquire chem's like that ?

...WW
Click to expand...

I found that on a website, along time ago and have never tried any of the recipes. I just posted it for info.

If I were to start looking, I think I would start at laboratory suppliers, maybe a few of the chemicals might be found at the drugstore.

If you are thinking of trying some, please post the results here. I'm interested in the outcome, I just never seem to find time to try it myself.

Joe
 
marking

I needed various head stamps for bench work, boosted a bottle of my wifes nail polish works like a hot damm as I was doing multiple loads between tumbling.
 
Hey everyone, It's "Dig up an old dead thread night" so I thought I would dig this one up from the archives.

Actually, I was looking for a way to mark my weighed brass into groups so I can clean a bunch at once rather than 50 at a time on their own.

Anyone find out where to get some of the chemicals mentioned? If so did you color any of your cases? Pics?

Did anybody get Kool-Aid or other methods to work?

Thanks,
Richard
 
Last edited:
I found some more recipes, but still nowhere to buy the ingredients :(

1. Light to Dark Brown
Ingredients

* Ferric Nitrate... 1/2 tsp
* Distilled Water... 1 pint

Process

Heat metal and apply liquid. (Red to reddish brown has also been reported using this recipe.)


2. Brown to Black
Ingredients

* Sulfurated Potash grape sized lump (crushed).
* Distilled Water... 1 pint

Process

Hot or cold process. Use fresh solution each time.


3. Blackish Brown
Ingredients

* Ferric Nitrate... 2 oz
* Distilled Water... 1 pint
* Sulfurated Potash... 1/4 oz

Process

Hot process. Mix in the order given.


4. Florentine Brown
Ingredients

* Ferric Chloride... 1 tsp
* Ferric Nitrate... 1/2 tsp
* Distilled Water... 1 pint

Process

This old Italian formula produces a rich brown patina.

Apply evenly with a brush, sponge, or sprayer and let it dry. When a light brown rust color appears rinse well with cool water.

Dry with newspaper - it is very important to use newspaper. You may want to use a slightly damp paper.

Burnish the surface with steel wool or wire brushes. Leave over night

Repeat the process for darker result.

When finished, wax over the patina to darken and set the color.


5. Antique Green
Ingredients

* Ammonium Chloride... 1/3 oz
* Cupric Sulfate... 3 oz
* Distilled Water... 1 quart

Process

Hot process. Solution hot (180 to 190°F), metal hot (200°F), cold wash water applied after metal has cooled to around 100°F. Wash solution over metal surface, let dry, then wash piece in cool water. Repeat until color develops.


6. Basic Green
Ingredients

* Cupric Nitrate... 1 tsp
* Distilled Water... 1 pint

Process

Hot process, semi-transparent patina. Heat metal and apply a fresh mixture for each coloring.


7. Blue Green
Ingredients

* Sodium Thiosulfate... 1/4 oz
* Ferric Nitrate... 2 oz
* Distilled Water... 1 quart

Process

Hot process. Solution hot (180 to 190°F), metal hot (200°F), cold wash water applied after metal has cooled to around 100°F. Wash solution over metal surface, let dry, then wash piece in cool water. Repeat until color develops. For Yellow Green, dip in dilute nitric acid, then wash and dry.


8. Cold Process Green
Ingredients

* Cupric Nitrate... 40 gm
* Ammonium Chloride... 40 gm
* Calcium Chloride... 40 gm
* Distilled Water to make 1 liter

Process

A cold process, opaque patina. Frog green results after several applications, 1/2 hour intervals. Color is not satisfactory alone. Combines well with most brown and black cold process patinas.


9. Light Green
Ingredients

* Ammonium Chloride... 16 units
* Sodium Chloride... 16 units
* Cupric Sulfate (optional)... 16 units
* Ammonium Hydroxide... 16 units

Process

A cold process, opaque patina which should be applied at 12 hour intervals for several days. For deeper green add 16 units of cupric sulfate.


10. Green
Ingredients

* Sodium Thiosulfate... 8 oz.
* Lead Acetate... 1-3 oz.
* Distilled Water... 1 gal.

Process

A cold process that is said to work well on brass.


11. Green - Blue (Flemish)
Ingredients

* Sodium Thiosulfate... 8 oz.
* Lead Acetate... 1-3 oz.
* Distilled Water... 1 gal.

Process

Temperature at 170 to 190°F, a hot process especially for brass.


12. Purple to Light Green
Ingredients

* Sodium Chloride... 5 parts
* Ammonium Hydroxide... 4 parts

Process

Parts by weight. Early stages of this recipe produce purple. Additional applications and chemical action turn the metal light green.


13. Transparent Blue
Ingredients

* Sodium Thiosulfate... 60 gm
* Nitric Acid Concentrated... 4 gm
* Distilled Water... 1 quart

Process

A transparent, dip process patina. A preservative such as paste wax or polyurethane is necessary. May produce a grey blue when tap water is used.


14. Blue
Ingredients

* Sulfurated Potash... 15 gm
* Ammonium Chloride... 200 gm
* Distilled Water 1 quart

Process

Brush onto surface.


15. Straw Yellow
Ingredients

* Ferric Nitrate... 1/2 tsp
* Distilled Water... 1/2 pint

Process

Heat metal and apply hot liquid.


16. Golden Yellow
Ingredients

* Sodium Thiosulfate... 1/4 oz
* Ferric Nitrate... 2 oz
* Distilled Water 1 quart

Process

Heat solution to a boil. Dip.


17. Deep Rust Red
Ingredients

* Cupric Nitrate... 48 grains
* Ammonium Chloride... 48 grains
* Calcium Chloride... 20 grains
* Cupric Sulfate... 10 grains
* Oxalic Acid... 10 grains
* Distilled Water... 4 oz
* Nitric Acid 10%

Process

Brush to surface for color. Then dip into diluted (1 acid:8 water) Nitric acid for 1/2 hour, remove, wash and dry.


18. Purple
Ingredients

* Sodium Chloride... 5 parts
* Ammonium Hydroxide... 4 parts
* Ammonium Chloride... 5 parts
* Glacial Acetic Acid... 4 parts
* Distilled Water... 32 parts

Process

Parts by weight. Brush to surface.


19. Antique White
Ingredients

* Bismuth Nitrate... 2 tsp.
* Distilled Water... 8 oz.

Process

Heat metal and apply liquid. Variations of this formula add a pinch of Sulfurated Potash, Ferric Nitrate, or Cupric Nitrate for a slight coloring effect.


Formulas Suggested for Specific Metals.
20. Red - semi-matt (for Copper & Copper Plate)
Ingredients

* (A) Cupric Sulfate... 25 gm
* Distilled Water... 1L
* (B) Ammonium Chloride... 0.5 gm

Process

Boil immersion (A) 15 min.

Boil immersion (A)+(B) 10 min.

Immerse in boiling cupric sulfate solution about 15 min. or until color well developed.

Remove to hot water while ammonium chloride is added to the cupric sulfate solution. Then immerse about 10 min. Remove and wash in hot water. Dry and finish.

Important note: In general, chemically induced finishes are unsuitable for use on articles to be used with food.


21. Dull Pink (for Copper & Copper Plate)
Ingredients

* Cupric Nitrate... 1 tsp
* Nitric Acid 10% ... 100 ml
* Distilled Water... 1L

Process

Hot immersion - 5 min.

Immerse in hot solution (140-158°F, 60-70°C) which etches surface. Remove after 5 min., wash in warm water and air dry. Wax finish.


22. Red-Purple Satin (for Cast Bronze)
Ingredients

* Cupric Sulfate... 25 gm
* Distilled Water... 1L

Process

Boiling immersion (10 to 30 min.)

Immerse in boiling solution. A reddish orange color begins after 2-3 min. and deepens with continued immersion. When a reddish-purple color is attained from 10 to 30 min. remove and wash well in hot water. Dry and wax finish if choose.


23. Orange-Brown (for Cast Bronze)
Ingredients

* Cupric Acetate... 25 gm
* Cupric Sulfate... 19 gm
* Distilled Water... 1L

Process

Heat immersion (15 min)

Immerse in hot solution (176°F, 80°C). Color develops gradually and remove after 15 min. Wash and dry wax finish if choose.


24. Black - semi-gloss (for Cast Bronze)
Ingredients

* Sodium Thiosulfate... 50 gm
* Ferric Nitrate... 12.5 gm
* Distilled Water... 1L

Process

Hot immersion (20 min.)

Immerse in hot solution (140-158°F, 60-70°C). In one minute the surface is colored blue-purple. This recedes to a brown color, then changing to gray. After 20 min., remove, washing in hot water and dry in air. Handle as little as possible.


25. Blue Green (for Cast Bronze)
Ingredients

* Cupric Sulfate... 20 gm
* Cupric Acetate... 20 gm
* Ammonium Chloride... 10 gm
* Acetic Acid (6% soln.)... to form a paste.

Process

Applied paste - several days.

Using a mortar and pestle, grind ingredients to a creamy paste with the acetic acid. Apply paste to object with a soft brush giving a thick coating. Dry for one day. Wash dry residue away under cold water using a soft brush. Apply a thin layer of paste with a soft cloth and dry again for one day. Wash off residue again. Apply thin layer and dry until good variegated patina is achieved. When treatment completed, dry thoroughly. May be waxed.


26. Golden Yellow (for Cast Bronze)
Ingredients

* Cupric Sulfate... 50 gm
* Ferrous Sulfate... 5 gm
* Zinc Sulfate... 5 gm
* Potassium Permanganate... 2.5 gm
* Distilled Water... 1L

Process

Boiling immersion (15 min.)

Immerse object in boiling solution. A dark brown layer forms on surface after 1-2 min. Remove object and bristle-brush under hot water. Re-immerse and repeat process after 2 min. if necessary. Immerse again to approximately 15 min. remove and wash thoroughly in hot water using a bristle brush if necessary. Dry and wax finish of choice.


27. Blue Green - semi-matt (for Cast Bronze)
Ingredients

* Cupric Acetate... 20 gm
* Ammonium Chloride... 35 gm
* Distilled Water... 1 L

Process

Applied liquid.

With mortar and pestle, grind ingredients with a little water. Then add to remaining water. Dab and wipe on sparingly with soft cloth, to leave an evenly moist surface. Allow to dry in air. Repeat procedure once a day for several days as color develops. Dry for several days during which time the patina develops further. When there is no more surface change, wax to finish.


28. Brown - Greenish Yellow (for Cast Bronze)
Ingredients

* Cupric Nitrate... 80 gm
* Nitric Acid 10% ... 100 ml
* Distilled Water... 1 L

Process

Immerse in hot solution (140-158°F, 60-70°C) to cause etching of the surface and gradual darkening. After 5 minutes remove and wash in warm water. Allow to air dry. When dry, wax finish.


29. Reddish Brown (for Cast Brass)
Ingredients

* Cupric Sulfate... 125 gm
* Sodium Acetate... 12.5 gm
* Distilled Water... 1 L

Process

Boiling immersion (10-15 min)

The color will develop after 10 - 15 min. Remove and wash in hot water. Dry thoroughly, wax finish.


30. Black (for Cast Brass)
Ingredients

* Sodium Thiosulfate... 6.25 gm
* Ferric Nitrate... 50 gm
* Distilled Water... 1 L

Process

Heat immersion - 1 minute.

When article is immersed in hot solution (120-140°F, 50-60°C) a succession of colors is produced. It changes to a purplish color after about 45 seconds. The color darkens quickly and the article is removed after about 1 minute. Wash thoroughly in hot water and air dry, wax finish.


31. Variegated Gold-Brown (for Cast Brass)
Ingredients

* Potassium Permanganate... 10 gm
* Distilled Water... 1 L

Process

Hot immersion (3-5 min.)

Immerse in hot solution (194°F, 90°C). A golden lustre develops within one minute and becomes more intense. When lustre color is fully developed in 3 - 5 minutes, remove and wash in hot water, which is also a cooling process. Finally, wash article in cold water. Dry carefully first by blotting excess moisture with absorbant tissue paper and then air dry. Wax finish when dry.


32. Red (For Cast Brass)
Ingredients

* Cupric Nitrate... 8 oz
* Oxalic Acid... 8 oz
* Distilled Water... 1 gal

Process

Heat metal and apply hot liquid
Click to expand...
 
Chemicals

Don't ask your pharmacist for these oddball chemicals. We just don't have them. They don't have any medical uses and aren't carried.
Also, if we could get some, they would be pharmaceutical grade and horribly expensive. Once, I wanted an ounce of fuming nitric acid for a bluing solution and found that the minimum I could order was four, 1 litre bottles.
I asked a teacher friend to pinch me some from the school lab, and made a donation to some school project.
For years, that virulent anti-gunner Ann landers would publish a column just before Christmas, on how to soak rolled up newspapers in a chemical solution to make yule logs and said that the chemicals are available in any pharmacy. It used to drive me buggy.
 
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