Model 1917 build

[fingers284]

Ok, I think I understand what you’re saying. I find that maybe I kind of “palm” the bolt knob rather than use the tip of a finger or something so with understanding that rationality I feel my preference is c on close, but appreciate you taking a minute to elaborate

The other thing that I didnt mention is that it just :modernizes the action...pretty much every bolt designed or built after the first war is #### on opening so somebody must think its the way to go LOL.

Except the firing pin is not fully cocked with a "####-on-open" Mauser 98 - you finish the cocking as you close the bolt on the forward stroke - by pushing forward. "####-on-open" gets you like 95% of the way to cocked - not all the way there. Many British (?) shooters preferred the #### on close system - might actually be about what one gets used to.

Not so with the Enfield P models, speed conversions are fully cocked and ready to go...There must be a version of same for Mausers as well both my old man and brother had war years actions converted to sporter's that were very much fully cocked on opening. One was done by Parker Hale and the other was an Argentine Mauser that was "kitchen table" done by a friend of the old man's.

 

[Potashminer]

When you open the bolt on one of those conversions - often there is a cam that brings back the firing pin from the "fired" position - so the bolt body is holding the firing pin back, on a conversion - "cocked on close" types do not much with the firing pin. As you slide the bolt forward, that "firing pin hold" is transferred to the trigger sear - the bolt body moves forward slightly so that it is the trigger sear, not the bolt body, that is holding the firing pin back - that might be occurring as the bolt handle is dropped downwards - hence, the very last part of the "cocking" action - the last few percent of main spring compression - occurs when it becomes the trigger sear holding back the firing pin, is done on the forward motion of the bolt body. There are several P14, M1917 and Mauser 98 actions here - most do not have barrels on them - they mostly all work the same for the final step of "cocking" the firing pin. As do M93 Mausers, M96 Swede, etc.

 

[cody c]

Does anyone have some cool ideas for crossbolts? Looking to do something unique, or maybe just cap with walnut.

Was thinking it would be cool to do something like a crescent moon on one side, and like a gold titanium head on the other side. Have wanted to do silver inlay for a while too so could figure out a pattern, get it burnt in with laser, and the hammer some silver wire in. I like some of the patterns where the engraving, or inlet steel or silver wraps around the two crossbolts

 

[Potashminer]

Some years ago, I owned a push feed Model 70 Winchester in 375H&H - it was done up with engraving on the heads of the two cross bolts - each end of the magazine mortice - I though that looked good - another CGN member has that rifle now. I never tried to do an "inlay" as you describe - no reason that should not work - an FYI - some posters had said some "cross bolts" were simply "plastic" dots on the wood - nothing inside between the "dot covers".

 

[cody c]

In a way the conventional modern design; the “interface of walnut to steel” isn’t really the best approach to strength under recoil.

Action stiffness sort of utilizes the wood around it. Does the front recoil really take recoil? The thin side rails of lumber and the steel action then transfer that force to the back of the action, and then to the back of the stock against your shoulder. I can see why an aluminum bedding block was the next step with fiberglass shell for UK designed long range rifles.

As for black plastic dots that don’t cover a crossbolt… it’s like putting a Lexus sticker on your Honda.

 

[cody c]

Where I left off yesterday.. whitl’ing away…

 

[cody c]

micro update:

Stock now has wrist reinforcement pin epoxied in. Used threaded rod that was just under 3/8” I had kicking around.

Gonna start on inletting for sling mounts next and the cross bolts. Thinking I’ll glue in walnut to make them hidden. Have titanium bolts and pipe from previous project. The sling mounts I had cut for the 9.3x57 husqy project a couple years ago. I don’t think I’m gonna do a metal palm cap. Debating still but think I’ll go with ebony this time.