Found them on sale for a grand total of $36 shipped to me from Vancouver. Shipping anything in this country is ridiculous. A simple letter is $1.50 anymore. And it's not like anyone will absorb the shipping cost into the total. The cost should be passed onto the consumer if they are to lazy to get their own
Modern Sporter - Build Discussions
- Thread starter ATRS Shaun
- Start date
Found them on sale for a grand total of $36 shipped to me from Vancouver. Shipping anything in this country is ridiculous. A simple letter is $1.50 anymore. And it's not like anyone will absorb the shipping cost into the total. The cost should be passed onto the consumer if they are to lazy to get their own
- Location
- Red Deer, Alberta
I was hoping for some help. I’ve never built a rifle before. I have flipped through every page of this thread, but still have a lot of questions bouncing around my head. There are a lot of abbreviations used for parts ordered and manufacturers- I literally have no idea what you’re all talking about.
I was hoping someone could provide a list of parts and tools needed to complete a build for the Modern Sporter. Just a general “barrel, trigger, hand guard, safety, springy thingy for the whatsamacallit, etc”. It would great to have a checklist I could reference when ordering parts to ensure I have everything needed for the final build. Also, if there are any particular tools needed as well.
Thanks in advance!
Go to YouTube, watch building a AR-15 videos with Larry Potterfield from Midway USA. It will give you an idea what is involved. You certainly do not need every tool he uses, but it sure helps.
Just keep in mind that the ATRS MS is not milspec, so the clampshell upper reciever clamp blocks won’t work.
I have a lot to learn. I saw that mill-spec and commercial were options for the stock, so Shaun at ATRS got back to me to let me know how that works (said I can use either platform (mil-spec or commercial) for the stock and buffer tube. But it sounds like i’ll Run into those options (mill-spec or commercial) for other parts too....
Do we use the Geissele Reaction rod then? Or is there another way? Its $80 USD
You can also probably use a MagPul BEV block, at least that’s what I expect to use - but they run around the $80 mark as well. And as has been stated above, if you think that’s expensive - wait for it
- Location
- Republic of Alberta
Doesn't TNA have a reaction rod? I mean all it has to do is fit the barrel extension so.....
- Location
- Red Deer, Alberta
Do we use the Geissele Reaction rod then? Or is there another way? Its $80 USD
If you think $80USD is bad, go look up the AR10 version. And yes I use & recomment a Geissele reaction rod.
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ATRS Shaun
Business Member Rep.
- Location
- Calgary, AB
You cannot use a Magpul BEV block, the geometry of the front of the upper interferes, as the front takedown pin is quite a bit lower than would exist on an ar15
The Bev block might work if you drive out the pin holding the center part in, then adjust the distance between the "bolt head" and the front takedown pin hole. It's then locked up firmly as designed except that the rifle bolt won't engage in the back of the Bev block.
ATRS Shaun
Business Member Rep.
- Location
- Calgary, AB
If you modify the BEV block then yes, I expect it could be made to work, you'll still be able to get the bolt carrier to engage on the back of the BEV block as that's still in line with the bore.
I'll see if I can snag a picture later... If anybody wants a BEV block to screw around with I've got one that I'll sell for forty bucks cash (no box). I opted to pick up a reaction rod for at home rather than trying to modify the BEV.
The only torque transferred would be how much resistance there is on the threads between them and the barrel nut.
Using good grease on the threads will eliminate most of it. Most of the index pin failures associated with the reaction rod are due to faulty index pins or improper use of the tools.
A reaction rod keeps all the stress out of the upper eliminating flex on the upper. Think about it. How would aluminum be stronger than the hardened stainless steel of the index pin?
I'd rather have to replace an index pin that shears vs an upper that flexed and cracked.
As long as you keep it under 80 ft lbs you will be fine, I’ve never needed more than 45 ft lbs though.
Not trying to complicate things. It’s just that some of us already own BEV blocks. If possible, why not use a tool that you already own. I’m not above buying a reaction rod - probably the cheapest part that I’ll be buying for this build - I just didn’t realize when I made the comment that a BEV block wouldn’t work.
