Modern Sporter - Build Discussions

Yeah, you are right that it would allow a regular tube (non extended) to be screwed in less. I haven't used a plain jane buffer tube on a build yet so I wasn't really thinking of it the same way you were.

Either way I think we can both agree screwing the tube in less is what's required to increase travel.

Yeah! I’m ordering a few of those aero enhanced tubes with the bottom lip to try and lengthen mine a little bit. 3/32” ish is really on the shorter side leaving minimal margin.
 
Update: my friends rifle was catching on the bolt carrier instead of the bolt face, so I tried a couple things today to try and remedy this.

1. Cut back a buffer by about 3/16"-1/4". This worked, the bolt catch now caught the bolt face vs the bolt carrier.
2. Put the original buffer (3oz) back in and put in a buffer spring from an MP15. This also worked, bolt catch now caught the bolt face vs the bolt carrier.

We ended up going with #2. The spring we took from the MS and put in the MP15 functions fine in the MP15, so he'll just leave it there.

18.6" mid length barrel with standard carbine (3oz) buffer.
 
Update on MS BCG not cycling to the rear fully**

Thanks to all that gave me advice on on fixing my cycling issue,its been resolved now :)

Likely culprit was I had my SLR gas block only open about 60% >.< DOH and judging by the carbon ring left on the barrel i was slightly off centered with my gas block.
I also had my PWS buffer tube screwed in pretty far. I was able to screw it out 2 full turns while still being able to use the buffer retaining pin if i wanted to, even though i don't because I use a JP SCS buffer system

Had it out to the range this afternoon and had zero issues. Went through 80 rounds quickly with not stoppages with various ammo.

I also noticed when I had issues with under gassing that the spent casings where ejecting about 5 o'clock, now that its running well it spits em out about 2-3 o'clock. From what ive read online 3-430 is preferred for ejected brass and 2-3 is considered over gassed.

Here's my question, Is being abit over gassed on a rifle like this a big deal? Am I wearing out parts faster? Im sure I could close up the gas block a smidge to drop down the pressure a bit, but i figured the extra oomph would help prove the rifle to be more reliable across different ammo types.

Any thoughts?
 
Hey measure your BCG travel from bolt stop to the most rearward for us. You can measure by making use of the wordings/markings on your charging handle(if there’s any)

Around 6.25mm of rearward travel , starting from the locked back position to max pull on the charging handle.

Edit- Same measurement with a standard BCM Buffer and spring
 
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Is 2 turns out with the buffer tube going to be to much and weaken the system? Doing the measurements I'm going to need 2 turns out for enough clearance for reliability. Just not sure how many threads can be left out before things start to weaken.
 
Is 2 turns out with the buffer tube going to be to much and weaken the system? Doing the measurements I'm going to need 2 turns out for enough clearance for reliability. Just not sure how many threads can be left out before things start to weaken.

If you look at the rear of the ATRS lower, there’s a 1/8” ish gap unthreaded until it starts to have threads. I think as long as all those threads are in contact, that’ll be the “maximum” strength anyway.
 
On the topic of forward assists, looking to replace the out of spec TNA one I have that rubbed the roll pin. (at least I hope its not the receiver)
I'm assuming most other "name brand" FA's work fine but has anyone tried Radian's FA in either Ti of Al?

I did, tried the radian TI, it seemed to work ok, didn’t lock up like the mil-spec one. But it still seemed too close to the BCG so I went back to the mil-spec one that I shortened and tweaked to stay further away.
 
On top of what you mention he will also need a bolt catch, mag catch and mag catch button.

Forward assist and ejection port cover as well

You'll also need a mag release and bolt catch. I think a LPK without the trigger group would be a better option.

Thanks.

I have a mag release and a forward assist.

Are bolt catch and bolt release are same part? Or two parts? Anyone using an extended bolt release (specifically from phase 5)?

I forgot about the ejection port cover - I have been reading here that some work and some don`t - what should I be looking for?
 
Is 2 turns out with the buffer tube going to be to much and weaken the system? Doing the measurements I'm going to need 2 turns out for enough clearance for reliability. Just not sure how many threads can be left out before things start to weaken.

Another option is to take your buffer and grind off a millimetre or so from the plastic bumper. Just take it to the side of a coarse grinder wheel. The finish will be perfect, it grinds off clean and looks original albeit a bit shorter.
 
Another option is to take your buffer and grind off a millimetre or so from the plastic bumper. Just take it to the side of a coarse grinder wheel. The finish will be perfect, it grinds off clean and looks original albeit a bit shorter.

But you can’t put it back into a normal AR. I think a different buffer tube might actually save you money if you were going to test out different buffers. IMO
 
I'm sure this has been covered before, but going through all 180 pages is daunting.
Has anyone put together a MS in .308 or even 7.62x39?
I understand with the discontinuation of the slick side uppers which had huge ejection ports this might be trickier with the FA uppers.

anyone care to point me in the right direction? I have a friend thats working on a .223 wylde build but thought it would be cool to have one for coyotes and one for bigger things.
 
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